Add a knob or handle to the threaded shank. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A T-handle makes these pins easy to grip. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A high-profile knob is easy to grip, but fits in small spaces. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

The smooth ring handle on these pins won't catch on parts. The shoulder keeps a portion of the pin outside the hole and makes them easy to grab.

Two spring-loaded balls give these pins more holding power than quick-release pins with only one retaining ball. The balls pop out when the pin is pushed into a hole, and retract when the pin is pulled out.

Use these pins for visibility or to color-code processes. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, they lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

When there isn't enough room for a T-handle, an L-handle saves space but is still easy to grip. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

The extra height and smaller width of the grip make the button more accessible in tight spaces. Made entirely of stainless steel, they stand up to corrosive enviroments. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

A recessed button prevents accidental pin removal. These all-stainless steel pins stand up to corrosive environments. They lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

These pins adjust to take up play in a system or hold parts in holes of varying thicknesses. Spin the handle up or down, then tighten the locknut to change the length by up to ½”. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

Also known as double-acting pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button or pull the ring to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. The smooth ring handle won't catch on parts.

To insert and remove these pins, press the button, then flip the lever to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. Two-step locking prevents accidental removal.

Use the key to unlock these pins, then press the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. Two-step locking prevents accidental removal.

When you can't drill a through hole, use one of these flanged receptacles to provide a permanent, blind hole for a quick-release pin.

These pins combine the locking capabilities of a clevis pin with the precision diameter of a dowel pin for a tight fit.

The bend makes these pins easy to insert and pull out.

A large loop handle makes these pins easy to grip.

Install or remove these pins from either side.

Slide a retaining ring into the groove for a secure hold that takes up less space than a cotter pin.

A swivel handle makes these pins easy to install and remove, while the toggle locks them in place. Flip the toggle to release the pin.

These one-piece fasteners lock in place with a toggle. Flip the toggle to release the pin.

For the fastest installation, push these pins into a hole and a spring-loaded wedge pops out to lock them in place. Also known as slic pins.

Spring force holds pieces of telescoping tubing together. Also known as snap buttons and tubing buttons.

Often used to connect equipment to a drawbar in towing applications, these rugged pins have a welded solid steel retainer.

Plastic pins are a nonconductive and nonmagnetic alternative to metal dowel pins. Use them as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.

Cut this 12" stock to the length you need.

To remove these pins, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull them out.

A spiral groove cut into these pins relieves trapped air but stays in 360° contact with the hole for a secure fit that's easy to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

Center-groove pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The grooved center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot. Also known as type E pins.

Quarter-groove pins are well suited for hinges or pivots. The grooved end locks pins in position, while the smooth portion can act as a pivot. Also known as type C pins.

These pins make good hinges or pivots. The grooved half locks pins in position, while the smooth half can act as a pivot. Also known as type H pins.

Barbs bite into plastics and soft metals such as aluminum for a strong hold, and a round head gives a finished appearance.

Join two pieces of wood with these dowel pins. When glued, they expand for a tight fit.

The full length of these pins is knurled for a tight grip that won't spin.

Made of compressed wood, these biscuits fit into slots cut into wood. When glued, they expand for a tight fit.

Threads on these pins stick out for easy removal from blind holes. Tighten the hex nut to draw the pin out.

For tough jobs, these spiral pins are 30% stronger than our standard coiled spring pins. They remain flexible after installation to absorb shock and vibration, and work well in holes that are out of round.

Interlocking teeth help these pins resist sliding when exposed to vibration. They have a slot that presses closed when the pins are inserted so they don't flex after installation.

A coil makes a stronger grip than standard hairpin cotter pins to prevent accidental release.

These pins are coiled for more tension than standard wire-snap cotter pins.

Slide these heavy duty pins into the through-hole in a clevis pin, then hit them with a hammer to wedge the prongs open.

Twist these rings on to lock pins in place. They don't have the sharp ends of other cotter pins.

Also known as key rings, twist these rings into place to secure clevis pins, connect components, or add a pull handle. They don't have the sharp ends of other cotter pins.

An extra loop locks these cotter pins more securely than other pins, so they can't vibrate out or be knocked off.

Pass these pins through a mounting hole and weld the head to the surface.

Screw the threaded end of these metric studs into a tapped hole and use the unthreaded end as a pivot point, hinge, shaft, or locator pin.

Add a stud to thin material when you only have access to one side.

These studs are also known as hanger bolts—use them to hang, mount, and fasten parts to wood structures.

These metric 316 stainless steel studs have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water. Also known as hanger bolts, use them to hang, mount, and fasten parts to wood structures.

A hollow center allows these studs to be used as an axle, a vent, or a passageway for wiring.

These studs have good chemical resistance. Weld them to stainless steel surfaces.

These steel studs are zinc plated to resist corrosion in wet environments.

316 stainless steel studs have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water.

Also known as clamping pins, these bolts have a collar that slides along the shaft and can be welded in place to clamp work in place and prevent over torquing.

Slotted spring pins are also known as roll, tension, split, and expansion pins. Because the slot is pressed closed when the pins are inserted, they don't flex after installation.

Also known as hitch pin clips and R-clips, use these cotter pins in applications requiring quick installation and removal.

Clip these pins onto grooved shafts and clevis pins to keep components in place.

Coiled spring pins are flexible after installation, so they absorb shock and vibration better than slotted spring pins. They also have higher dynamic load capacities and accommodate wider hole tolerances.