Not only do these bits bore holes faster than standard smooth-finish bits, they create less friction and heat buildup to last longer. The spurred teeth have a long life, but they're less effective at guiding the bit so cuts on angled and overlapping holes tend to be rougher. Also known as multispur bits.

Make rough holes in wood for jobs such as running wire and pipe through framing studs and sheets. These bits have two sharp edges for faster cuts than fluted bits and won't cause the surface of the material to splinter. A centering point keeps them stable while drilling soft and hard woods such as pine, plywood, and oak. Also known as spade bits.

Multiple teeth cut away large amounts of material to bore clean, flat-bottom holes in wood. The center guide point keeps the bit stable and centered for drilling straight, angled, and overlapping holes, like those used create joints. Also known as Forstner bits.

These countersinks attach at various points along the drill bit, so one tool will drill countersunk holes for screws of different lengths. They're designed to cut a smooth and even finish in wood and plastic on the first pass.

Drill and counterbore holes of different depths without changing tools. These counterbores move along the drill bit (sold separately) and lock into place with set screws to match the length of the screw you're installing.

Fasten differently sized screws with these sets. They save you the effort of switching three separate bits in and out of a power tool, instead letting you flip between a countersinking drill and a screwdriver bit with a single hand. You can also attach your own countersinking drills and screwdriver bits as long as they have a _1/4” hex shank.

Countersinking drills have an 82° angle, allowing inch-sized flat- and oval-head screws to sit flush with the surface.

Cut burr-free holes of many sizes in remote areas and other places where you can’t set up your magnetic-base drill. These cutters slip into the _1/2" chuck on your power drill. Unlike drill bits, they cut only on the periphery of the hole and produce a solid slug, so they’re faster and leave a smoother edge. There’s also no need to drill a pilot hole first—the built-in pilot drill centers the hole before the cutter engages. Also known as annular cutters.