Also known as standard-pattern thimbles, these provide better protection against fraying than light duty thimbles.

Smooth rounded edges and an endless design prevent snags.

Make a removable loop without specialty tools for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing. Also known as tiller clamps.

Use in noncritical applications, such as fencing, where the strength of a forged clamp is not required. Install clamps so the saddle is on the long (live) end and the U-bolt is on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.

Constructed with a saddle for both the long (live) end and the short (dead) end, these clamps apply equal pressure without crimping or crushing the wire rope, so orientation doesn't matter. Also known as fist grip wire rope clips.

A clamp and thimble in one convenient fitting simplifies installation while providing support and fray protection to the wire rope loop. Use a torque wrench to tighten the clamp.

These clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and the U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.

Install these eye-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.

Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty eye-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.

Use these to adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.

Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.

Adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.

Disconnect by pulling the lever or attach rope to the eye on the lever for remote release.

A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

These have a removable half-link to attach large rings, links, and other closed fittings.

With a narrow opening and contoured sides, these securely hold a single link of chain to prevent overtightening when lifting a load.

Insert in eyes, links, rings, and other connectors with small openings. Also known as J-hooks.

Use these on thick molds, castings, and objects that don't have attachment points. Also known as foundry hooks.

These have a latch that locks closed when a load is applied for a more secure connection than standard hooks. They rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.

For a more secure connection than standard trigger-locking snaps, squeeze the trigger and slide the latch grip down to release.

Weld these hooks into place.

These swivel hooks have a latch that ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

A rolled rim provides added grip while the elongated neck and teeth on the washer, also known as a spur washer, add reinforcement and reduce rotation so you can use these grommets in thick materials such as canvas. Press the grommets into a hole you've already cut. They strengthen and prevent holes from fraying in tarps, covers, and curtains. They also provide a way to run rope and cable through your material.

Press these grommets into a hole you've already cut. They strengthen and prevent holes from fraying in tarps, covers, and curtains. They also provide a way to run rope and cable through your material.

The extended neck on the washer of these grommets adds reinforcement so you can use them in thicker material such as woven fabrics. Press them into a hole you've already cut. They strengthen and prevent holes from fraying in tarps, covers, and curtains. They also provide a way to run rope and cable through your material.