Bumps, scrapes, and falls won’t damage these tough ABS filaments. Known for their durability, they absorb impact without cracking or breaking, and won’t degrade when heated. Use them to print tool handles, storage cases, and other parts that are handled or dropped frequently. These filaments are a good place to start if you’re experimenting with printing impact-resistant parts.

Use with a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. These filaments have a high melting point and must be printed onto a heated bed. Without it, parts will cool too quickly and warp. These filaments also release fumes as they are printed, so use an enclosed printer or a fume exhauster to ventilate them.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Stretchy, soft, and sturdy, these filaments make durable parts that resist breakage despite repeated use. Stronger than ABS and PLA filaments, they create long-lasting parts, such as seals, sleeves, and gaskets, as well as components that take on high-impact forces, such as springs and snap-fit parts. These filaments don't require a heated printer bed, and they won't shrink or warp when cooling. Use them with a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. In general, these flexible filaments require a slow feed rate so they don't jam. The softer your filament, the slower your feed rate will need to be. Store them in a sealed container with a desiccant, or use a dehumidifying cabinet, since ambient humidity will cause the plastic to degrade and weaken.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

The most commonly used 3D printing material, these PLA filaments make detailed parts at a low melting point, so they won’t warp as they cool, rarely clog nozzles, and don’t require a heated printer bed. They’re also unlikely to drip and produce plastic strings for a clean finished part. In general, they’re best for printing prototypes instead of load-bearing parts since they’re not as strong as ABS or as heat resistant as PEEK. Print them on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer.

Filaments with an annealing temperature can be heat treated to make parts harder, stronger, and better at resisting heat. To anneal, heat your finished part to the listed temperature and then let it cool slowly.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity. Filaments that can be annealed are also rated for maximum temperature after annealing, which is the new maximum exposure temperature once that process completes.

Often used to make bearings, worm gears, and other smooth moving parts, these filaments create parts that won’t wear out from constant motion. They're a slippery plastic blend, so they have better wear resistance and lower friction than other filaments.

Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) printer. Because of their high melting point, a heated printer bed is recommended since the parts will cool too quickly and warp without it. You must use an enclosed printer or fume exhauster while printing these filaments. Store them in a sealed container with a desiccant, or use a dehumidifying cabinet, since moisture in the air can degrade their printing quality.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Print these polypropylene filaments into filters, gaskets, and other lightweight, foam-like parts that let air and gas pass through but repel water. They contain a filler that dissolves in water, forming hollow spaces that make up 45% of the part. Polypropylene is known for being rigid yet flexible, so it absorbs impacts and bounces back to shape after bending, making these filaments good for compressible seals and living hinges. It also resists hydrocholoric and phosphoric acids, as well as other nonoxidizing acids and bases.

These filaments work with fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printers. If using a glass print surface, apply an adhesive to prevent the filament from detaching. The recommended print speed is 25 mm/s. While polypropylene is likely to shrink, the filler in these filaments supports your design, preventing it from losing shape as it prints. Submerge your part in hot water for about 24 hours after printing to dissolve the filler and expose the pores.

For extra support when printing complex designs, use structural support 3D printer filaments. They dissolve in water at the same time as this filament’s filler.

When 3D printing a model with overhangs or hollow spaces, use these filaments to prevent the model from losing its shape. They support the structure during the printing and cooling process, then dissolve or snap away once the part is hardened. Use them in dual-extrusion fused filament fabrication (FFF) printers alongside your primary filament. Unlike parts with supports printed from a single filament, there’s no cutting, sanding, or polishing required.

Choose a filament that has similar printing requirements as your primary filament. You will want to choose a support filament that prints at a similar temperature as your primary filament and has the same requirements for a heated build chamber, so they cool at the same rate and won’t warp.

You should also consider how you will remove the structural support filament from your finished part.

Compatible with the MakerBot Replicator 2 Desktop 3D Printer, all Fifth Generation MakerBot Replicator 3D printers, and Sketch printers.