Bumps, scrapes, and falls won’t damage these tough filaments. Known for their durability, they absorb impact without cracking or breaking, and won’t degrade when heated. Use them to print tool handles, storage cases, and other parts that are handled or dropped frequently.

Use with a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. These filaments have a high melting point, and must be printed onto a heated bed. Without it, parts will cool too quickly and warp. These filaments also release fumes as they are printed, so use an enclosed printer or a fume exhauster to ventilate them. When printing a filament with a filler, it’s recommended that you use a hardened steel nozzle. Since the filler makes them abrasive, they will wear out copper and brass nozzles.

Carbon-fiber-filled ABS filaments are easier to print than ABS, while adding stiffness to printed parts that helps them hold their shape.

Polycarbonate filaments are strong and heat resistant. These filaments can be difficult to print—they require high printing temperatures and parts tend to warp.

Carbon-fiber-filled polycarbonate filaments make printed parts twice as rigid as standard polycarbonate. These filaments are easier to print than standard polycarbonate, and printed parts hold their shape better.

ASA filaments are the best choice for outdoor-use parts. Unlike other filaments, which warp and crack with prolonged sun exposure, parts made from ASA are UV resistant.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Absorbing blows and resisting fire, these ABS filaments produce holders, guards, housings, and other parts that protect sensitive, flammable equipment and machinery. They’re rated UL 94 V-0, which means they meet strict flammability standards. Print them on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Because they have a high melting point, they require a heated print surface and may warp as they cool. They also emit fumes, so you need direct ventilation, such as a fume exhauster, to print safely.

ABS filaments have a lower printing temperature than polycarbonate ABS filaments, so they’re easier to print. You don’t need to store them with a desiccant to keep them dry, since they resist absorbing moisture from the air.

Polycarbonate ABS filaments are about 33% stronger and handle slightly higher temperatures than standard ABS filaments.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament’s overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it’s the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

Create tool handles, tote trays, enclosures, and other parts that are banged or dropped often and used near sensitive electronics. These filaments are made of durable ABS or polycarbonate—roughly four times tougher than PLA—with a compound that diverts electrostatic discharges away from equipment. Print them on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Due to their high melting point, they require a heated printer bed and tend to warp as they cool. They also emit an odor as they print, so you’ll need an enclosed printer or fume exhauster.

ABS filaments are a good place to start if you’re printing impact-resistant parts.

Polycarbonate filaments are nearly twice as impact resistant and stand up to heat better than ABS filaments. However, their higher melting point makes them more difficult to print, since they need more heat and are more likely to warp.

To make sure your part dissipates static properly, use an electrical resistance tester to measure the surface resistivity. The target surface resistivity for these filaments is 10⁷ to 10⁹ ohms. To adjust the resistivity, change the temperature of your printer’s extruder. As the extruder’s temperature increases, so will the printed part’s resistivity.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament’s overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it’s the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

Fabricate custom bottles, packaging, and other parts for chemical processing. Made of PPS, these filaments won’t break down even after prolonged exposure to virtually any acid, base, or solvent. They also stand up to oil and fuel, so they’re sometimes made into automotive parts. Because they have a low density and won’t transfer electricity, they make parts that are lightweight and protect components from electric currents. These filaments are easy to store too, since they resist absorbing water. Rated UL 94 V-0, they meet flammability standards.

Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Due to its high melting point, PPS is more difficult to print than most other materials. You need an all-metal extruder and a heated printer bed to reach its minimum printing temperature. After printing, anneal your part in an oven for 2 to 4 hours to reach its maximum strength, temperature, and ability to resist chemicals.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament’s overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it’s the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

Make packaging and containers for sensitive electronics that will safely divert electrostatic charges while shielding them from almost any solvents, acids, and bases. These filaments combine the exceptional chemical-resistance properties of PPS with a compound that makes it static dissipative.

PPS filaments have very low moisture absorption so they’re easy to store. Use them with fused filament fabrication (FFF) printers that have a heated printer bed. Unlike other filaments, they can be difficult to print. To reach the correct printing temperature, your printer’s extruder must be made entirely of metal. Once printed, parts must be annealed (heated) in an oven for 2 to 4 hours to achieve their maximum strength, temperature, and chemical-resistance properties.

Use an electrical resistance tester to make sure your part meets proper resistivity levels. In general, the target surface resistivity for static-dissipative parts is 10⁶ to 10⁷ ohms. To adjust the resistivity, change the temperature of your printer's extruder. As the extruder's temperature increases, so will the printed part's resistivity.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Stretchy, soft, and sturdy, these filaments make durable parts that resist wear and breakage despite repeated use. Stronger than ABS and PLA filaments, they create long-lasting, wear-resistant parts, such as seals, sleeves, and gaskets, as well as components that take on high-impact forces, such as springs and snap-fit parts.

These filaments don't require a heated printer bed, and they won't shrink or warp when cooling. Use them with a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. In general, these flexible filaments require a slow feed rate so they don't jam. Store them in a sealed container with a desiccant, or use a dehumidifying cabinet, since ambient humidity will cause the plastic to degrade and weaken.

With nylon as an additive, PCTPE filaments are not only flexible, they're wear resistant and inherently slippery, so they're good for components that move and rub against other objects. They're also UL rated 94 HB and 94 V-2 for their ability to prevent the spread of flames both horizontally and vertically.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Print tough, long-lasting parts that won’t scratch or wear out from constant motion and friction, such as gears, bearings, and washers. You can even tap or drill the parts without them cracking or shattering.

Use these filaments with fused filament fabrication (FFF) printers. Because of their relatively high melting point, a heated printer bed is recommended. These filaments also emit fumes when printing, so it’s best to use them in an enclosed printer or to remove the fumes with a fume exhauster. Store them in a sealed container with a desiccant so they don’t absorb moisture in the air, which can make them unusable.

Nylon 6 filaments are the strongest nylon filaments without a filler, but may warp while cooling.

Carbon-fiber-filled nylon filaments are reinforced to make them the strongest and most rigid nylon in this offering. They are abrasive filaments that can damage soft metal nozzles, such as brass and copper, so use them with hardened steel nozzles.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Create gears, bearings, washers and other hard-working parts that may be used in or near flammable machinery. These filaments meet UL 94V0, so if they catch fire they will self-extinguish within 10 seconds and any drips that fall won’t cause other fires. In addition, these filaments won’t easily scratch or wear out from friction, or crack when they’re drilled or tapped. Made of blended thermoplastic, they have three times the wear resistance of standard nylon. They also handle higher temperatures.

Because of their high melting point, you must use a heated printer bed when using these filaments with your fused filament fabrication (FFF) printer. Remove fumes during printing with a fume exhauster. Store unused filaments in a sealed container with a desiccant.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Parts made with these filaments remain strong and rigid in temperatures that would soften most plastics. They are a lightweight alternative to machined metal parts. Use with a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer to make parts that will be used near ovens, engines, and other hot machinery. These filaments require an all-metal extruder to reach the recommended printing temperatures. Print parts onto a heated bed to keep them from warping as they cool.

PVDF, also known as Kynar, is the most wear-resistant high-temperature material. Parts made from these filaments also hold up when exposed to UV rays.

For parts that need to be sterilized, use PSU filaments. Parts printed with these filaments are rigid and hard. They won’t expand or deform when exposed to heat and steam, so you can autoclave them.

PEI filaments have electrical-insulating properties, which make them good for printing circuit-breaker housings and semiconductor components.

Parts printed from PEEK filaments hold up to wear from repeated use and do not degrade when exposed to most chemicals. They are often used to print parts for chemical processing applications.

Fiberglass-filled PEEK filaments produce parts that are stronger, shrink less, and are less likely to warp than unfilled PEEK. They also take nearly twice as much heat without deforming. To reach their full heat resistance and strength, parts printed with fiberglass-filled PEEK must be annealed.

PEKK filaments can be printed at a lower temperature than PEEK and produce parts that withstand more heat. Parts printed with PEKK must be annealed to reach their full strength and heat resistance. To skip the annealing process, use carbon-fiber-filled PEKK filaments. Once they are printed, they tolerate the same amount of heat as unfilled, annealed PEKK, while producing parts that are stiffer and more impact resistant. These filaments also meet UL 94 V-0, which means they self-extinguish within 10 seconds if they catch fire, and won’t cause additional fires by dripping.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Annealing is the process of heating prints to a specific annealing temperature and then slowly allowing them to cool. This makes the finished print harder, stronger, and more heat tolerant. Maximum temperature after annealing replaces the maximum exposure temperature once this process has been completed.

Not only do parts printed from these filaments protect sensitive electronics, but they also hold their shape in temperatures that would deform or degrade most plastic. Use them to make parts for hot environments, such as engines, ovens, or lighting equipment. These filaments combine heat-tolerant plastic with a static-dissipative material that keeps static from building up and prevents shocks.

Use these filaments with a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. They require an all-metal extruder to reach the recommended printing temperatures, and should be printed onto a heated bed to keep parts from warping as they cool.

PVDF, also known as Kynar, is extremely wear resistant and holds up when exposed to UV rays.

PEI filaments have electrical-insulating properties, which make them good for printing circuit-breaker housings and semiconductor components.

PEKK filaments are nearly twice as strong as PVDF and PEI.

Use an electrical resistance tester to make sure printed parts meet proper resistivity levels. In general, the target surface resistivity for PVDF is 10⁶ to 10⁹ ohms, and for PEI and PEKK it's 10⁶ to 10⁷ ohms. To adjust your measurements, change the temperature of your printer's extruder. As the extruder's temperature increases, so will the printed part's resistivity.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Parts printed with these filaments absorb less moisture than other types of plastic, making them ideal for use in wet or humid environments. They are more durable and flexible than PLA, and easier to print than ABS. Use these filaments with fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printers, and print onto a heated print bed. Printing onto a cool surface causes the molten filament to change temperature rapidly, which can warp your designs. Although finished parts are moisture-resistant, these filaments are sensitive to humidity, and should be stored in a dehumidifying cabinet or a sealed container with desiccant.

Carbon-fiber-filled PETG is more than twice as rigid as unfilled PETG, which makes finished parts more stable and helps them hold their shape. While it is easier to print than unfilled PETG, it is also more abrasive. Use a hardened steel nozzle to print, as this filament will wear out copper and brass nozzles.

PCTG holds up to a wide range of acids and bases without breaking down. It is often used for printing parts that will be exposed to chemicals and oils.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Print water-resistant packaging or other parts that will be used near sensitive electronics with these filaments. They combine polyester with a static-dissipative compound, which keeps static from building up and reduces the risk that a sudden shock will damage equipment. Parts made from these filaments can be splashed with water or stored in humid areas without degrading. Designed for use with fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printers, they are more durable than PLA and easier to print than ABS.

To prevent parts from warping while they cool, these filaments must be printed onto a heated print bed. Although finished parts are moisture resistant, the filaments themselves are sensitive to humidity. Store them in a sealed container with desiccant or in a dehumidifying cabinet.

PCTG holds up to a wide range of acids and bases without breaking down. It is often used for printing parts that will be exposed to chemicals and oils.

Use an electrical resistance tester to make sure your part meets proper resistivity levels. In general, the target surface resistivity for printed parts is 10⁷ to 10⁹ ohms. To adjust your measurements, change the temperature of your printer's extruder. As the extruder's temperature increases, so will the printed part's resistivity.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.