Plastic pins are a nonconductive and nonmagnetic alternative to metal dowel pins. Use them as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.

Oversized to fit worn and enlarged holes, these pins work well as repair and replacement parts.

To remove these pins, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull them out.

A spiral groove cut into these pins relieves trapped air but stays in 360° contact with the hole for a secure fit that's easy to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

Use these as pivot or hinge pins. The knurled half locks pins in position, while the smooth half acts as a pivot.

Center-knurled pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The knurled center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot.

Grooves run the full length of these pins for a firm hold that won't spin. Use them in place of standard dowel, spring, and taper pins to fasten parts. Also known as type A pins.

These pins are commonly used as anchors for tension springs. The grooved half locks pins in position, and spring ends fit in to the notch. Also known as type G pins.

For use with Browning shear hubs, these pins are designed to fail at specific loads to protect heavy duty machinery from torque overload.

Choose a material, head type, end type, and size to create a custom pin.

Also known as roll, tension, split, and expansion pins, these pins have a slot along one side that you squeeze closed to install them into unthreaded holes.

These spiral pins remain flexible after installation, so they absorb shock and vibration better than slotted spring pins. They work well in holes that are out of round.

Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.

These pins have a flat head to fit into a counterbored hole.

Support rounded or irregularly shaped workpieces from the bottom or side with minimal contact.