Slip these pins in and out during maintenance or prototyping—they’re undersized to make alignment easier.

Cut this 12" stock to the length you need.

The flat side of these pins relieves trapped air, making them easier to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

Grooves run the full length of these pins for a firm hold that won't spin. Use them in place of standard dowel, spring, and taper pins to fasten parts. Also known as type A pins.

Center-groove pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The grooved center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot. Also known as type E pins.

Quarter-groove pins are well suited for hinges or pivots. The grooved end locks pins in position, while the smooth portion can act as a pivot. Also known as type C pins.

For use with Browning shear hubs, these pins are designed to fail at specific loads to protect heavy duty machinery from torque overload.

Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.

Also known as roll, tension, split, and expansion pins, these pins have a slot along one side that you squeeze closed to install them into unthreaded holes.

For tough jobs, these spiral pins are 30% stronger than our standard coiled spring pins. They remain flexible after installation to absorb shock and vibration, and work well in holes that are out of round.

Create a custom headed pin with your choice of material, dimensions, and end type.

Mount through the counterbored hole with a socket head cap screw to support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side.