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Use these metal dowel pins as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.
Slip these pins in and out during maintenance or prototyping—they’re undersized to make alignment easier.
To remove these pins, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull them out.
The flat side of these pins relieves trapped air, making them easier to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.
These pins make good hinges or pivots. The grooved half locks pins in position, while the smooth half can act as a pivot. Also known as type H pins.
Center-groove pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The grooved center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot. Also known as type E pins.
Join two pieces of wood with these dowel pins. When glued, they expand for a tight fit.
Pass wires and other components through these hollow pins.
Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.
Also known as roll, tension, split, and expansion pins, these pins have a slot along one side that you squeeze closed to install them into unthreaded holes.
These spiral pins remain flexible after installation, so they absorb shock and vibration better than slotted spring pins. They work well in holes that are out of round.
For tough jobs, these spiral pins are 30% stronger than our standard coiled spring pins. They remain flexible after installation to absorb shock and vibration, and work well in holes that are out of round.
The low-profile head on these pins holds them in place on one side.
These pins combine the locking capabilities of a clevis pin with the precision diameter of a dowel pin for a tight fit.
Slide a retaining ring into the groove for a secure hold that takes up less space than a cotter pin.
Install or remove these pins from either side. Slide a retaining ring into the groove for a secure hold that takes up less space than a cotter pin.