Maintain consistent alignment in mating parts by installing a pin in one part and a liner in the other.

Screw the shank into a threaded hole for quick installation and removal.

Encase these pins while molding plastic or composite parts. Once set, the knurls resist movement, letting you align the workpiece with precision on a plate or table.

When locating a workpiece using through-hole alignment pins, use one of these bushings and one standard bushing to prevent the pins from binding in your fixture.

A good choice for automated clamping, these retractors use compressed air to extend and retract a locating pin, protecting the pin from damage in applications where fixtures move through a process, such as along a conveyor belt.

Mount through the counterbored hole with a socket head cap screw to support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side.

Support rounded or irregularly shaped workpieces from the bottom or side with minimal contact.

Sealed at the top to prevent debris from getting inside and making them seize up, these guide pins are a good choice for machining fixtures.

Thread in a screw, handle, or other part to create the right size and shape guide pin for your application.

As the face of these plungers is pushed in, the internal spring applies outward pressure to hold a workpiece in position against stops and rails.

Add a knob or handle to the threaded shank. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A bright-orange plastic-coated handle makes these pins easy to see and easy to grip. Pins have a spring-loaded ball that pops out when the pin is pushed into a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

The smooth ring handle on these pins won't catch on parts. The shoulder keeps a portion of the pin outside the hole and makes them easy to grab.

Two spring-loaded balls give these pins more holding power than quick-release pins with only one retaining ball. The balls pop out when the pin is pushed into a hole, and retract when the pin is pulled out.

Use these pins for visibility or to color-code processes. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, they lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

For the tightest spaces, these narrow-grip pins have the smallest heads of any of our locking quick-release pins. They lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

A T-handle makes these pins easy to grip. Made entirely of stainless steel, they stand up to corrosive enviroments. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

A recessed button prevents accidental pin removal. These all-stainless steel pins stand up to corrosive environments. They lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

These pins adjust to take up play in a system or hold parts in holes of varying thicknesses. Spin the handle up or down, then tighten the locknut to change the length by up to ½”. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

Attach these pins to a machine cover or access panel, then clip them in to receptacles installed in the enclosure for quick access. Pins lock in place until you release them.

To insert and remove these pins, press the button, then flip the lever to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. Two-step locking prevents accidental removal.

Plastic pins are a nonconductive and nonmagnetic alternative to metal dowel pins. Use them as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.

Slip these pins in and out during maintenance or prototyping—they’re undersized to make alignment easier.

To remove these pins, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull them out.

A spiral groove cut into these pins relieves trapped air but stays in 360° contact with the hole for a secure fit that's easy to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

Grooves hold these pins in place, and a round head gives them a finished appearance.

These pins make good hinges or pivots. The grooved half locks pins in position, while the smooth half can act as a pivot. Also known as type H pins.

Grooves run the full length of these pins for a firm hold that won't spin. Use them in place of standard dowel, spring, and taper pins to fasten parts. Also known as type A pins.

Quarter-groove pins are well suited for hinges or pivots. The grooved end locks pins in position, while the smooth portion can act as a pivot. Also known as type C pins.

Barbs bite into plastics and soft metals such as aluminum for a strong hold, and a round head gives a finished appearance.

Pass wires and other components through these hollow pins.

A 60° beveled head fits into a countersunk hole.

A thick shoulder makes these pins more rigid than standard ejector pins.

These internally threaded pins sit flush in an assembly. For easy removal from a blind hole, thread a screw into the pin and pull out.

Pass these pins through a mounting hole and weld the head to the surface.

A flange keeps the plunger from being pushed through a hole when the ball is depressed.

Fasten from the nose end with a wrench for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.

Install with a hex key for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.

The flangeless design allows these spring plungers to mount flush with a surface.

Install these spring plungers with a screwdriver—they're slotted on one or both ends.

Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.

The ring allows you to attach these spring plungers to a lanyard.

Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the ring and rotating it 90°.

A quarter turn of the handle locks these plungers in the retracted position. The smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts.

An L-handle takes up less space than a T-handle.

A smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts.

Two holes in the plate allow these plungers to be mounted to a flat surface.

Weld these catches in place for a strong permanent hold.

When one side wears out, use the other one. Also known as barrel drift pins.

Often called bull pins, these pins are designed to resist mushrooming caused by repeated pounding.

Made from aluminum-bronze that is Factory Mutual approved, these nonmagnetic, corrosion-resistant tools inhibit sparking. They satisfy OSHA requirements for nonsparking tools.

These brass tools reduce marring on metal surfaces because they're softer than steel punches.