Since these heaters continually supply the same wattage regardless of the surrounding temperature, they’re less prone to power surges than self-regulating heaters. All require a temperature switch or controller (sold separately) to regulate heat output. They’re often used to maintain liquid temperature and viscosity and provide freeze protection in pipe and tube systems. To prevent burnout, heaters must not be overlapped and must be in full contact with the surface being heated. All have a plastic cable cover for corrosion resistance and durability. They are FM approved for hazardous locations. A power-connection/termination kit (sold separately) is required.

Power-connection/termination kit (sold separately) includes a junction box and a three-point DIN-mount terminal block. It also includes adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover.

Termination kit (sold separately) includes adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover.

LED termination kit (sold separately) has a high-visibility green LED to indicate when the heater is on. It also includes adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover.

Note: Only install these heaters in accessible locations; do not install them behind walls, underground, or in other difficult-to-access areas. Use fiberglass tape or heat-transfer putty to install them directly on surfaces that are free of dirt, grease, and rough edges. Do not use electrical tape, duct tape, metal bands, or wire. To prevent heat loss and protect heaters from moisture and corrosion, wrap them with fiberglass insulation.

There’s no need for power-connection kits with these finished lengths of cable. These heaters automatically adjust heat output in response to surface and surrounding temperatures without a separate temperature switch or controller. They’re often used to maintain liquid temperature and viscosity and provide freeze protection in pipe and tube systems. All are CSA certified for pipe freeze protection and are rated for outdoor use. Heaters can be overlapped without creating hot spots or risking burnout. A protective rubber cover provides corrosion resistance and durability.

Heaters with a plug are also CSA certified for roof and gutter de-icing applications. The plug has an indicator light that shows when the system has power.

Note: Only install these heaters in accessible locations; do not install them behind walls, underground, or in other difficult-to-access areas. Use fiberglass tape or heat-transfer putty to install them directly on surfaces that are free of dirt, grease, and rough edges. Do not use electrical tape, duct tape, metal bands, or wire. To prevent heat loss and protect heaters from moisture and corrosion, wrap them with fiberglass insulation.

Also known as self-regulating heat cable, these heaters automatically adjust heat output in response to surface and surrounding temperatures without the need for a separate temperature-control device. They’re often used to maintain liquid temperature and viscosity and provide freeze protection in pipe and tube systems. Heaters can be overlapped without creating hot spots or risking burnout. All require a power-connection/termination kit (sold separately).

Heaters with a plastic cable cover are rated for use in hazardous locations. They are also more corrosion resistant and durable than heaters without a cable cover.

Power-connection/termination kits (sold separately) include a junction box and a three-point DIN-mount terminal. They also include adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover.

Termination kits (sold separately) include adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover.

LED termination kits (sold separately) have a high-visibility green LED to indicate when the heater is on. They also include adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover.

Splice kits (sold separately) include adhesive, splice-connection covers, and wire-splicing connectors.

T-splice kits (sold separately) include adhesive, splice-connection covers, and wire-splicing connectors.

Note: Only install these heaters in accessible locations; do not install them behind walls, underground, or in other difficult-to-access areas. Use fiberglass tape or heat-transfer putty to install them directly on surfaces that are free of dirt, grease, and rough edges. Do not use electrical tape, duct tape, metal bands, or wire. To prevent heat loss and protect heaters from moisture and corrosion, wrap them with fiberglass insulation.

For demanding applications such as hot-melt transfer pipes, these heaters have a maximum heat output of 1400° F. They supply the same wattage regardless of the surrounding temperature, so they're less prone to power surges than self-regulating heaters. All require a temperature switch or controller (sold separately) for regulating heat output. To prevent burnout, heaters must not be overlapped and must be in full contact with the surface being heated.

Heaters with a plug require a power controller (sold separately).

Note: Only install these heaters in accessible locations; do not install them behind walls, underground, or in other difficult-to-access areas. Use fiberglass tape or heat-transfer putty to install them directly on surfaces that are free of dirt, grease, and rough edges. Do not use electrical tape, duct tape, metal bands, or wire. To prevent heat loss and protect heaters from moisture and corrosion, wrap them with fiberglass insulation.

Also known as foil heaters, these bend around tank corners and edges without damaging the heating element. They permanently adhere to container surfaces to heat contents without direct contact. All have a pressure-sensitive adhesive back for easy installation. Heaters require a temperature switch or controller (sold separately) to regulate heat output.

Note: Do not cut or overlap these heaters—this will damage the heating element. Use a roller during installation to remove air pockets and ensure direct surface contact. Once heaters have been applied to a surface, they cannot be removed and reused.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.