Drive the keys into the surrounding material for a more secure hold than thread-locking inserts. These inserts are used to repair or convert threads in soft metals such as aluminum. They’re comparable to Keensert® inserts.

18-8 stainless steel inserts are more corrosion resistant than black-phosphate steel. They may be mildly magnetic.

Black-phosphate steel inserts are mildly corrosion resistant.

Choose inserts with a thick wall for greater strength than thin-wall inserts, or to fill a large hole.

With a distorted internal thread and keys on the outside, these inserts create a strong hold on both fasteners and surrounding material. Together, the distorted thread and keys create a mechanical lock that resists pull-out from vibration or temperature changes and is stronger than inserts that require threadlocker. Use them to create completely new threads, add strong threads in soft metal, or replace existing threads that are damaged or need to be resized. They're often seen in molds, tools and dies, and suspension systems in vehicles.

Made of a solid piece of metal, these inserts are also stronger than helical inserts, which are made of coiled wire. A dry-film lubricant makes it easy to install them and to screw fasteners into them. All are made to tight tolerances with strictly controlled materials; many inch sizes also meet military or aerospace standards for dimensions and material.

To install, you'll need a tap to create the threads in your material, and an installation tool and a hammer to drive the keys into the material.

When choosing between stainless steel and cadmium-plated steel, consider strength and price. Both materials withstand wet environments. Stainless steel inserts are economical, but not as strong as steel. Use cadmium-plated steel inserts in applications where additional strength is necessary, such as in engine blocks. Steel inserts are stronger than stainless steel inserts, but are more expensive.

Inserts with thick walls are the most commonly used; they’re stronger than thin-wall inserts and are used in larger holes. Inserts with extra-thick walls are the strongest; use them to reduce the size of tapped holes.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

These assortments include various sizes of key-locking inserts with thick and thin walls, and an installation tool. Drive the keys into the surrounding material for a more secure hold than thread-locking inserts. Use them to repair or convert threads in soft metals such as aluminum. They’re comparable to Keensert® inserts.

18-8 stainless steel inserts are more corrosion resistant than black-phosphate steel. They may be mildly magnetic.

Black-phosphate steel inserts are mildly corrosion resistant.

Choose assortments with thick-wall inserts for greater strength than thin-wall inserts, or to fill a large hole.

A black-phosphate finish provides mild corrosion resistance. Also known as E-Z Lok, these inserts use Loctite® adhesive to keep them in place. The adhesive reaches full strength after 72 hours. Installation requires a drill bit and a standard tap. Then set the insert with a bolt and two nuts, or use an installation bit.

Choose inserts with a thick wall for greater strength than thin-wall inserts, or to fill a large hole.

To drive slotted inserts, you can use a slotted screwdriver instead of using an installation bit or a bolt and two nuts.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Also known as Heli-Coil inserts, these inserts have coils that expand once installed to securely anchor the insert. All have a prong for ease of installation. An installation tool grips the prong and reduces the coil diameter, enabling the insert to fit in tapped holes. Remove the prong to insert the screw. Installation requires a drill bit, a helical insert tap, an installation tool, and a prong break-off tool.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

A distorted thread grips the screw to resist loosening. Also known as Heli-Coil inserts, these inserts have coils that expand once installed to securely anchor the insert. All have a prong for ease of installation. An installation tool grips the prong and reduces the coil diameter, enabling the insert to fit in tapped holes. Remove the prong to insert the screw. Installation requires a drill bit, a helical insert tap, an installation tool, and a prong break-off tool.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Inserts come with a through-hole tap and installation tool. Also known as Heli-Coil inserts, they have coils that expand once installed to securely anchor the insert. All have a prong for ease of installation. An installation tool grips the prong and reduces the coil diameter, enabling the insert to fit in tapped holes. Remove the prong to insert the screw.

Weld these nuts to round uncoated metal tubes to attach threaded parts, such as rod ends. Also known as tube adapters and weldable threaded tube ends.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Use these tube-end nuts with left-hand threaded fasteners. You can weld them to round uncoated metal tubes to attach threaded parts, such as rod ends. Also known as tube adapters and weldable threaded tube ends.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

These nuts are chemical resistant and may be mildly magnetic. Also known as Allen nuts, use them with socket head cap screws in recessed holes and tight spaces that don't have enough clearance for a wrench. Tighten them with a 6-point hex key. They can also be used as an insert by pressing or drawing them into nonhardened steel, cast iron, or soft nonferrous metal or by molding them into plastic, ceramic, fiber, and similar materials.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Also known as Allen nuts, use these with socket head cap screws in recessed holes and tight spaces that don't have enough clearance for a wrench. Tighten them with a 6-point hex key. They can also be used as an insert by pressing or drawing them into nonhardened steel, cast iron, or soft nonferrous metal or by molding them into plastic, ceramic, fiber, and similar materials. Made from alloy steel, they're comparable in strength to Grade 9 bolts.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Nickel-plated steel has some corrosion resistance. Mounts have a ball-and-socket design that swivels to compensate for uneven floors. In addition to leveling, mounts raise equipment off the floor for easier cleaning and inspection.

Mounts with a cushion are nonskid for an extra measure of stability.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Black-oxide steel has a dull shine for areas where appearance is a concern. Mounts have a ball-and-socket design that swivels to compensate for uneven floors. In addition to leveling, mounts raise equipment off the floor for easier cleaning and inspection.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

An economical choice for applications in corrosive environments that don't require high load capacities, these mounts have a plastic base. Their ball-and-socket design swivels to compensate for uneven floors. In addition to leveling, mounts raise equipment off the floor for easier cleaning and inspection.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Made entirely of stainless steel, these mounts resist corrosion from water and most chemicals. Their ball-and-socket design swivels to compensate for uneven floors. In addition to leveling, mounts raise equipment off the floor for easier cleaning and inspection.

Mounts with a cushion are nonskid for an extra measure of stability.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Made of stainless steel, these mounts resist corrosion from water and most chemicals. Their ball-and-socket design swivels to compensate for uneven floors. Add your own threaded stud or bolt to build a mount that fits your needs. In addition to leveling, mounts raise equipment off the floor for easier cleaning and inspection.

Mounts with a rubber cushion are nonskid for an extra measure of stability.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Seal tube and hose fittings to keep their straight threads protected from contaminants during fabrication and storage.

Polyethylene plugs resist chemicals better than aluminum plugs. Install them manually.

Aluminum plugs withstand temperatures up to 650° F, which is more than four times as high as polyethylene and nylon plugs. They are also more abrasion resistant. Install them manually.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Pull the two built-in rings to quickly remove these plugs. All are tapered to fit a range of hole diameters.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.