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Also known as Trantorque bushings, these tighten with a twist of the collar nut—no screws needed.
A mounting flange prevents movement during tightening.
Insert these bushings into the bore of your sprocket for flush or recessed mounting.
Made from stainless steel or plated with nickel, these bushings resist corrosion. A mounting flange prevents movement during tightening.
Transfer torque directly from a shaft to a hub.
Insert these nickel-plated steel bushings into the bore of your sprocket for flush or recessed mounting in wet environments.
Tighten just one set screw to clamp these bushings evenly around your shaft. The screw forces hydraulic fluid in between the double-walled sleeve, expanding the two walls against the shaft and the hub of your sprocket, pulley, or gear for a tight hold.
Reduce the ID of sprockets, pulleys, and gears in low-torque applications.
A toothed slot lets these bushings contract for insertion into the bore of your sprocket or pulley and then expand for a snug fit.
The screw connections on these bushings easily mate to compatible quick-disconnect sprockets and pulleys.
Mount these hubless bushings flush into your sprocket or pulley for a slim profile with no protruding screws.
The tapered barrel on these bushings is split on both sides, allowing them to contract more tightly around the shaft than quick-disconnect and taper-lock bushings.
Replace worn bushings and quickly change IDs without needing to repeatedly use a lever press. Instead of pressing bushings in and out of your jig fixture, which can cause damage, these bushings slide in and out of sleeves.
Choose the ID, OD, and length you need.
Prevent removable drill bushings from pushing through fixture plate holes as you machine. Quick to twist on and off, these lock rings make it easy to secure and remove bushings.
Unlike most bushings, these won’t buckle the material or distort the hole when installed in thin-gauge aluminum and steel fixture plates.
Get a good grip on your lock ring to quickly and easily secure removable drill bushings into your fixture plate.
Designed to grip slippery plastic, the knurls on these bushings keep them from spinning while you drill. Their hold is stronger than serrated bushings, so they can withstand more force.
Serrations line the sides of these bushings to keep them from spinning while you drill. Also known as jig bushings, they’re pressed or molded into plastic tooling to guide drill bits, counterbores, and reamers.
Serrations on these bushings dig into wood, aluminum, and other soft metals to keep them from spinning while you drill. Also known as jig bushings, they fit inside fixture plates to guide drill bits, counterbores, and reamers.
A flexible tire on these couplings safeguards components on your shafts by reducing vibration and shock.