Hinge leaves fit into two cutouts (mortises) to mount flush with the door and frame.

Turn a set screw to adjust the door up or down after it's hung.

Turn a set screw to adjust the door 1/8" up or down after it's hung.

Thick leaves and a large diameter pin make these hinges good for use with heavy doors.

A grease fitting makes these hinges easy to lubricate.

These hinges are made of metal.

The hinge pin is permanently attached to the frame leaf so you can quickly lift the door off the hinge without removing the pin.

Springs in these hinges without holes automatically swing doors and gates closed behind you.

After a light push on the door, springs in these hinges swing doors and gates fully open.

Only one cutout (mortise) is needed for these hinges—the offset design allows surface mounting the door leaf and mortise mounting the frame leaf.

Tighten or loosen an adjustment screw to change the hinge resistance.

These hinges allow 360° of motion.

These hinges without holes are spring loaded—pull the handle to retract the pin and disconnect a door; release the handle and the pin snaps back.

A keeper holds the pin in a retracted position to make reconnecting doors easier than other pull-release quick-disconnect hinges.

To retract the pin and disconnect a door, squeeze the hinge handles together. Release the handles and the pin snaps back.

The mounting hole pattern does not follow an industry standard, which means you can work around worn mounting holes when replacing template hinges.

These hinges are completely hidden when the door is closed.

A stud projects from the back of each hinge leaf to prevent the door from being forced open. The mounting holes form an industry-standard half-moon shape.

Bearings allow these hinges to open and close doors smoothly.

A snap-on cover protects these hinges from tampering and creates a finished appearance.

The mounting holes form an industry-standard half-moon shape.

The hinge pin is permanently attached to the frame leaf so you can quickly lift the door off the hinge without removing the pin.

To reinforce loose or damaged hinges, mount one of these hinges to the top edge of the pull-side of the door.

The hinge pin is permanently attached to the frame leaf so you can quickly lift the door off the hinge without removing the pin.

Designed to wrap around the edge of the partition frame, these hinges provide a stronger hold than other toilet partition door hinges.

Choose these hinges for their adherence to strict military standards for material and construction.

Mounting slots allow door alignment adjustments during and after hinge installation.

When the door is closed, the distance between the leaves is larger than the pin diameter, creating an offset to accommodate a gasket or trim.

With large pin diameters for added strength, these hinges can hold heavier doors and gates than other strap hinges.

These hinges have wide hinge leaves that provide a large mounting surface to keep freezer and refrigerator doors from sagging.

Bearings allow these hinges to open and close doors smoothly.

These hinges have a standard range of motion of 100° to 120°.

With a 170° range of motion, these hinges are for doors that need to open wide.

Hinge leaves fit into two cutouts (mortises) to mount flush with door and frame edges.

Easier to install than other mortise-mount concealed cabinet hinges, these fit in two drilled holes.

Instead of mounting to the side of a door, mount these hinges to the top and bottom to allow doors to open wide.

Surface-mount these hinges to the side of a cabinet.

Pivots provide smooth motion at the junction between two T-slotted rails.

Position two strut channels at a 30° to 60° angle, then tighten the bolt to secure.

No need for fasteners—friction holds this framing together. Use press-fit framing and fittings to assemble carts, enclosures, and partitions.

Fittings come in two pieces to wrap around rails, so you can quickly modify existing structures without disassembling. Use clamp-on framing and fittings to form temporary partitions, modular conveyors, and workstations.

To provide corrosion resistance in wet environments, this framing is galvanized.

Manually control these standard free-moving lid supports through their full range of motion. Raise or lower the lid until the hold-open mechanism on the support is engaged; slightly lift it again to release the hold and close the lid.

Also known as hatch springs, these supports are commonly used on hatches and other top-opening lids. Raise the lid to extend the spring, which props the lid open—an internal cable keeps the spring from overextending. Press the center of the spring to release the hold and close the lid.

Springs provide lifting assistance to raise and hold lids open—slightly lift the lid to get it started and the support will do the rest. Manually shut the lids and the supports will hold them in the closed position.

Requiring less space to mount and operate, these supports are often used on small cabinets and enclosures. They gradually slow your lid's motion to prevent it from slamming open. To open lids, lower them and the support will slowly and softly do the rest. Manually shut the lids and the supports will hold them in the closed position.

To eliminate slamming and smashed fingers, these supports automatically pull lids shut when they approach the closed position. Raise the lid until the hold-open mechanism on the support is engaged; slightly lift it again to release the hold and close the lid.

Good for general purpose applications where corrosion and high strength aren’t a concern, these rod end bolts are made of carbon steel.

Pivot and hinge components in wet and corrosive environments with these stainless steel or brass rod end bolts.

Also known as swing bolts and eyebolts, these internally threaded rod end bolts have no moving parts. They're designed to make pivoting or hinge movements in applications that don't need to compensate for misalignment.

Made of stainless steel, these rod end bolts are stronger and more corrosion resistant than our standard flat-shoulder rod end bolts.

With a rubber bushing, these bolts reduce noise and vibration—attach them to rods, pipes, tubes, and cable linkages that have male threading. They’re commonly known as isolated rod ends.

Made of stainless steel, these rod end bolts are more corrosion resistant than steel rod end bolts.

These internally threaded rod ends have an eyelet and a ball that swivels to support angular misalignment. Also known as rod-end bearings.

A carbon fiber-reinforced insert or PTFE liner reduces wear, handles shock loads, and eliminates the need for lubrication.

Connect your grease gun to the fitting to lubricate. Internal threads mate with rod end bolts, threaded rods, and other components with male threads.

An oil-embedded bronze insert slowly releases lubricant throughout the life of the rod end.

These internally threaded rod ends have an oil-embedded bronze insert that slowly releases lubricant over time. Connect your grease gun to the fitting to relubricate.

With at least 55° of ball swivel, these rod ends accommodate greater misalignment than any other internally threaded rod end we offer.

Made of cadmium-plated steel, these internally threaded rod ends generally handle higher loads than stainless steel, aluminum, and nylon rod ends.

Made to extremely tight tolerances, these externally threaded rod ends are for applications that require positioning accuracy, such as accelerators and other types of control linkages.

Made of stainless steel, these internally threaded rod ends provide excellent corrosion resistance.

These anodized aluminum rod ends are lighter than stainless steel rod ends and have good corrosion resistance.

These internally threaded steel rod ends handle loads that are at least 25% higher than other comparably sized rod ends.

An innovative body design keeps the ball from being pushed out when supporting thrust loads.

A double row of precision ball bearings allows high speeds and smooth operation.

Without changing the ID, these inserts handle some misalignment on rod ends.

These steel rod ends are machined to SAE standards.

A male-threaded shank lets you build a linkage with a tapped tube or any female-threaded connection.