Plastic pins are a nonconductive and nonmagnetic alternative to metal dowel pins. Use them as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.

Oversized to fit worn and enlarged holes, these pins work well as repair and replacement parts.

Grooves run the full length of these pins for a firm hold that won't spin. Use them in place of standard dowel, spring, and taper pins to fasten parts. Also known as type A pins.

These pins make good hinges or pivots. The grooved half locks pins in position, while the smooth half can act as a pivot. Also known as type H pins.

Center-groove pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The grooved center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot. Also known as type E pins.

The full length of these pins is knurled for a tight grip that won't spin.

Barbs bite into plastics and soft metals such as aluminum for a strong hold, and a round head gives a finished appearance.

Also known as roll, tension, split, and expansion pins, these pins have a slot along one side that you squeeze closed to install them into unthreaded holes.

For tough jobs, these spiral pins are 30% stronger than our standard coiled spring pins. They remain flexible after installation to absorb shock and vibration, and work well in holes that are out of round.

These pins combine the locking capabilities of a clevis pin with the precision diameter of a dowel pin for a tight fit.

For parts that spin or are otherwise difficult to access, slide these pins in and tap them with a hammer for a temporary hold. Reposition work, then bend the prongs outward to secure.

Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.

These pins have a flat head to fit into a counterbored hole.