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Use these metal dowel pins as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.
Plastic pins are a nonconductive and nonmagnetic alternative to metal dowel pins. Use them as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.
Slip these pins in and out during maintenance or prototyping—they’re undersized to make alignment easier.
Oversized to fit worn and enlarged holes, these pins work well as repair and replacement parts.
Cut this 12" stock to the length you need.
Grooves run the full length of these pins for a firm hold that won't spin. Use them in place of standard dowel, spring, and taper pins to fasten parts. Also known as type A pins.
Quarter-groove pins are well suited for hinges or pivots. The grooved end locks pins in position, while the smooth portion can act as a pivot. Also known as type C pins.
These pins make good hinges or pivots. The grooved half locks pins in position, while the smooth half can act as a pivot. Also known as type H pins.
These pins are commonly used as anchors for tension springs. The grooved half locks pins in position, and spring ends fit in to the notch. Also known as type G pins.
Center-groove pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The grooved center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot. Also known as type E pins.
To remove these pins, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull them out.
Use these as pivot or hinge pins. The knurled half locks pins in position, while the smooth half acts as a pivot.
Center-knurled pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The knurled center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot.
The full length of these pins is knurled for a tight grip that won't spin.
Use these pins to fasten components made of soft materials such as plastic or aluminum. Opposing barbs bite into each piece, pulling them together for a tight, secure fit.
The smooth ring handle on these pins won't catch on parts. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.
These pins have a low-profile head, so they won't get knocked out of place. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.
Add a knob or handle to the threaded shank. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.
The smooth ring handle on these pins won't catch on parts. The shoulder keeps a portion of the pin outside the hole and makes them easy to grab.
A T-handle makes these pins easy to grip. The shoulder keeps a portion of the pin outside the hole and makes them easy to grab.
For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.
The extra height and smaller width of the grip make the button more accessible in tight spaces. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.
When there isn't enough room for a T-handle, an L-handle saves space but is still easy to grip. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.
The extra height and smaller width of the grip make the button more accessible in tight spaces. Made entirely of stainless steel, they stand up to corrosive enviroments. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.
A recessed button prevents accidental pin removal. These all-stainless steel pins stand up to corrosive environments. They lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.
Also known as double-acting pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button or pull the ring to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. The smooth ring handle won't catch on parts.
Also known as double-acting pins, these pins lock in place until you push or pull the handle to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. The T-handle is easy to grip.
The low-profile head on these pins holds them in place on one side.
These pins combine the locking capabilities of a clevis pin with the precision diameter of a dowel pin for a tight fit.
Also known as universal clevis pins, these pins have holes on 1/4" centers so you can change the length by moving the cotter pin.
Install or remove these pins from either side.
Slide a retaining ring into the groove for a secure hold that takes up less space than a cotter pin.
Install or remove these pins from either side. Slide a retaining ring into the groove for a secure hold that takes up less space than a cotter pin.
For the fastest installation, push these pins into a hole and a spring-loaded wedge pops out to lock them in place. Also known as slic pins.
Sized to fit snugly around pipe and tube, these pins use spring force to keep the retainer closed.
Slide the pin through a hole then snap the ring down to lock these pins in place. Also known as click pins.
Also known as split pins, these have one prong slightly longer than the other so they’re easy to open. Bend prongs outward to secure.
For parts that spin or are otherwise difficult to access, slide these pins in and tap them with a hammer for a temporary hold. Reposition work, then bend the prongs outward to secure.
Also known as roll, tension, split, and expansion pins, these pins have a slot along one side that you squeeze closed to install them into unthreaded holes.
These spiral pins remain flexible after installation, so they absorb shock and vibration better than slotted spring pins. They work well in holes that are out of round.
For tough jobs, these spiral pins are 30% stronger than our standard coiled spring pins. They remain flexible after installation to absorb shock and vibration, and work well in holes that are out of round.
Position, pivot, and align components. Also known as pilot pins and PEM® TP4, TPS, and MPP pins.
Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.
These pins have a flat head to fit into a counterbored hole.
A 60° beveled head fits into a countersunk hole.
Use these pins with a die to punch 1/8" and larger holes. Pins can be modified to fit your application.
Pass these pins through a mounting hole and weld the head to the surface.
Weld these pins directly to a surface —no mounting hole required.
Hammer the pin into the body and it flares out for a secure hold. These rivets require access to only one side of the material and can be used in through-holes or closed-end holes.
These anchors are also known as drive rivets. To install, hammer the pin into the body. Pry out the pin to remove.
Also known as drive rivets, install these anchors by hammering the pin into the body. Pry out the pin to remove.
These anchors are also known as drive rivets. To install, hammer the screw into the body. Unthread the screw to remove.
These 316 stainless steel anchors have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water.