Slip these pins in and out during maintenance or prototyping—they’re undersized to make alignment easier.

The flat side of these pins relieves trapped air, making them easier to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

These pins make good hinges or pivots. The grooved half locks pins in position, while the smooth half can act as a pivot. Also known as type H pins.

Join two pieces of wood with these dowel pins. When glued, they expand for a tight fit.

The low-profile head on these pins holds them in place on one side.

Slide a retaining ring into the groove for a secure hold that takes up less space than a cotter pin.

A swivel handle makes these pins easy to install and remove, while the toggle locks them in place. Flip the toggle to release the pin.

These pins have a low-profile head, so they won't get knocked out of place. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

Two spring-loaded balls give these pins more holding power than quick-release pins with only one retaining ball. The balls pop out when the pin is pushed into a hole, and retract when the pin is pulled out.

The extra height and smaller width of the grip make the button more accessible in tight spaces. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

For the tightest spaces, these narrow-grip pins have the smallest heads of any of our locking quick-release pins. They lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

Attach these pins to a machine cover or access panel, then clip them in to receptacles installed in the enclosure for quick access. Pins lock in place until you release them.

When you can't drill a through hole, use one of these flanged receptacles to provide a permanent, blind hole for a quick-release pin.

A strong magnet in the head holds these pins in place on steel and other ferrous metals. Use them for light duty applications and blind holes.

Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.

A coil makes a stronger grip than standard hairpin cotter pins to prevent accidental release.

Also known as roll, tension, split, and expansion pins, these pins have a slot along one side that you squeeze closed to install them into unthreaded holes.

For tough jobs, these spiral pins are 30% stronger than our standard coiled spring pins. They remain flexible after installation to absorb shock and vibration, and work well in holes that are out of round.

Threads on these pins stick out for easy removal from blind holes. Tighten the hex nut to draw the pin out.

Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.

Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the ring and rotating it 90°.

Designed with a flange to keep the plunger from being pushed through a hole when the ball is depressed.

Install these spring plungers with a screwdriver—they're slotted on one or both ends.

Install with a driver.

These spring plungers have a nose that is about three-times longer than standard long hex-nose spring plungers.

Install spring plungers from the nose end without depressing the nose.

These metric 316 stainless steel studs have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water. Also known as hanger bolts, use them to hang, mount, and fasten parts to wood structures.

These steel studs are zinc plated to resist corrosion in wet environments.

316 stainless steel studs have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water.

Coiled spring pins are flexible after installation, so they absorb shock and vibration better than slotted spring pins. They also have higher dynamic load capacities and accommodate wider hole tolerances.

Dowel pins are commonly used as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts. They're slightly oversized for a tight fit.

Slightly larger than the size listed, these oversized keys offer a tight fit in worn keyways.

A rounded bottom allows these keys to rock in their seat to relieve stress on the shaft caused by vibration or misalignment.

Straight keys, with a square or rectangular cross section, are the most common type of key. Install them in keyways to transmit torque from shafts to gears and other components.

Thread a screw through the tapped hole to pop these keys out of a keyway. When installed, they fill oval keyways completely, reducing stress on the key and shaft. The rounded ends make it easy to slide gears, hubs, and other components into place.

Cut this stock to length to create the machine key you need. Straight keys, with a square or rectangular cross section, are the most common type of key. Install in a keyway to transmit torque from shafts to gears and other components.

Install these pins in a plate or table and mate with holes in a workpiece for precise alignment.

Support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side. These buttons press into a drilled hole for permanent installation.

Use these buttons to support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side. Their hex shape lets you screw them into a threaded hole with a wrench or socket.

As the workpiece pushes against the pin head in one direction, the internal spring pushes back to hold it in place for clamping.

Threading makes these guide pins easier to remove and replace than press fit, so they're useful for high-wear applications.

Use these metric Class X plug gauges for precision go/no-go measuring of hole sizes and depths, checking hole location and distance, and setting micrometers. They’re also called pin gauges.

Take precision go/no-go measurements of hole sizes and depths, check hole location and distance, and set micrometers.

These gauges come with a certificate of calibration traceable to NIST that states they’ve passed a test for accuracy.