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Retract the nose by pulling the knob.
Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.
The ring allows you to attach these spring plungers to a lanyard.
Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the ring and rotating it 90°.
Use the lanyard as a tether to secure the spring plunger to machinery and prevent accidental drops.
Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the handle and rotating it 90°.
Thread onto machinery or attach a knob or handle to the threaded spindle.
Install by hand or with a hex key in low-clearance applications.
Install with a hex key for more torque than slotted ball-nose spring plungers.
Install these spring plungers with a screwdriver—they're slotted on one or both ends.
Slotted on both ends for installation with a screwdriver.
Install with a driver.
Install with a hex key for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.
Fasten from the nose end with a wrench for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.
Mount ball-nose and long-nose spring plungers to fixture surfaces.
Install spring plungers from the nose end without depressing the nose.
Use a screwdriver to install these receptacles in a threaded hole.
Add a knob or handle to the threaded shank. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.
Choose a material, head type, end type, and size to create a custom pin.
Create a custom headed pin with your choice of material, dimensions, and end type.
These internally threaded pins sit flush in an assembly. For easy removal from a blind hole, thread a screw into the pin and pull out.
Screw these studs into a tapped hole and use them as a pivot point, hinge, shaft, or locator pin.
A hollow center allows these studs to be used as an axle, a vent, or a passageway for wiring.
Pass these studs through a hole and weld them in place.
18-8 stainless steel studs have good chemical resistance and may be mildly magnetic. Also known as hanger bolts, use them to hang, mount, and fasten parts to wood structures.
These studs are also known as hanger bolts—use them to hang, mount, and fasten parts to wood structures.
Also known as tank-strap bolts, these T-bolts are commonly used with a band clamp or a strap to hold fuel tanks and other objects in place.
Also known as clamping pins, these bolts have a collar that slides along the shaft and can be welded in place to clamp work in place and prevent over torquing.
Drive these tools with a hammer until the thicker portion of the tool makes contact with the anchor, causing it to expand.
A zinc plating provides corrosion resistance in wet environments.
More corrosion resistant than 18-8 stainless steel anchors, these 316 stainless steel anchors have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water.
These 18-8 stainless steel anchors have good chemical resistance.
Install like a stud anchor—just thread the anchor, a nut, and a washer onto the end of a threaded rod, drive into a hole, and turn the nut to expand the base. Also known as rod anchors, they're often used with threaded rod to hang pipe and wiring.
These 316 stainless steel anchors have excellent resistance to chemicals and salt water.
Also known as double expansion anchors, these expand from both sides for full contact and a secure hold.
Also known as caulk-in anchors, these stay secure when there's not much material to hold.
Drive these tools with a hammer to expand anchors.
Often referred to as four-way expansion anchors, these expand in four directions to resist loosening from vibration.
Use in applications requiring high strength.
Bolts are beveled under the head for a flush finish in countersunk holes.
A pivoting toggle bar creates a strong hold.
For narrow holes and small cavities where toggle anchors won't fit.
Screw the shank into a threaded hole for quick installation and removal.
Use these buttons to support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side. Their hex shape lets you screw them into a threaded hole with a wrench or socket.
The swiveling tip supports uneven and angled surfaces.
These have a go gauge on one end and a no-go gauge on the other end.
These gauges come with a certificate of calibration traceable to NIST that states they’ve passed a test for accuracy.