The most commonly used 3D printing material, these PLA filaments make detailed parts at a low melting point, so they won’t warp as they cool, rarely clog nozzles, and don’t require a heated printer bed. They’re also unlikely to drip and produce plastic strings for a clean finished part. In general, they’re best for printing prototypes instead of load-bearing parts since they’re not as strong as ABS or as heat resistant as PEEK. Print them on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer.

Carbon fiber-filled PLA filaments make rigid parts that are difficult to bend and break. Their parts can also be threaded and machined more easily than the same non-filled filaments. Because these filaments are abrasive, you should only use them with abrasion-resistant nozzles.

Stainless steel-, iron-, copper-, and brass-filled PLA filaments are heavier and transfer heat better than plastic-only filaments. Brush, sand, or polish printed parts for a metallic finish. Stainless steel and iron are abrasive, so use them with abrasion-resistant nozzles only. Iron will also rust if exposed to water.

Wood-like PLA filaments mimic wood without actual wood powder, and exhibit similar density and appearance to wood. You can sand, paint, and stain your part.

Static-dissipative PLA filaments make parts that protect equipment from electrostatic shocks by diverting electrostatic discharges in a controlled way. They’re often used to create tool handles, tote trays, enclosures, and other parts that are used near sensitive electronics. To adjust the surface resistivity of your printed part, change the temperature of your printer’s extruder. As the extruder’s temperature increases, the printed part’s resistivity will decrease.

Conductive PLA filaments are best for creating circuit prototypes and other conductive pathways. To adjust the surface resistivity of your printed part, change the temperature of your printer’s extruder. As the extruder’s temperature increases, the printed part’s resistivity will decrease.

Expose parts made with glow-in-the-dark PLA filaments to ambient light and they will stay visible in the dark. Use these filaments to create machine switches and handles or custom signs and labels that can be seen in low-light conditions. Because they’re abrasive, you should only use them with abrasion-resistant nozzles.

Filaments with an annealing temperature can be heat treated to make parts harder, stronger, and better at resisting heat. To anneal, heat your finished part to the listed temperature and then let it cool slowly.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament’s overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it’s the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity. Filaments that can be annealed are also rated for maximum temperature after annealing, which is the new maximum exposure temperature once that process completes.

Often used to monitor UV exposure and test UV curing and sterilization equipment, parts made from these filaments change color when exposed to the sun or UV lights. Made from PLA, the most commonly used 3D printing material, they make detailed parts at a low melting point. As a result, they rarely clog nozzles, won’t warp as they cool, and don’t require a heated printer bed. They’re also unlikely to drip and produce plastic strings for a clean finished part. Print them on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament’s overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it’s the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

When 3D printing a model with overhangs or hollow spaces, use these filaments to prevent the model from losing its shape. They support the structure during the printing and cooling process, then dissolve or snap away once the part is hardened. Use them in dual-extrusion fused filament fabrication (FFF) printers alongside your primary filament. Unlike parts with supports printed from a single filament, there’s no cutting, sanding, or polishing required.

Choose a filament that has similar printing requirements as your primary filament. You will want to choose a support filament that prints at a similar temperature as your primary filament and has the same requirements for a heated build chamber, so they cool at the same rate and won’t warp. Aquasys GP filaments are good at supporting heat-sensitive materials, such as PLA and PET, because they print well at lower temperatures and don’t need a heated build chamber.

You should also consider how you will remove the structural support filament from your finished part. Soluble filaments are well suited to print parts with complex or fragile designs as they gently dissolve off your primary part, leaving a smooth finish. Water-soluble filaments dissolve in a heated bath.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Build parts and prototypes from these filaments using Dremel fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printers. An RFID tag on the spool communicates with your printer, automatically adjusting it to the correct temperature and print speed for the filament material and notifying you when the filament is running out.

PLA filaments are the most commonly used in 3D printing. PLA is easy to use; it rarely clogs nozzles, doesn’t require a heated printer bed, and prints at a low temperature—meaning parts won’t warp while cooling. It produces string-free parts, so you can use it to print with a high level of detail. Less durable and more sensitive to heat than ECO-ABS, PLA is better for printing prototypes than end-use parts.

Tensile strength is the best measure of a filament's overall strength. Similar to the stress applied on a rope during a game of tug-of-war, it's the amount of pulling force a material can handle before breaking. A higher rating means a stronger filament. A tensile strength of 5,000 psi and above is considered good; 12,000 psi and above is excellent.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.