Sterilize your printed parts without them expanding, deforming, or weakening. These polysulfone filaments resist steam and heat, so you can sterilize parts in an autoclave. They also can be sterilized with ethylene oxide, radiation, plasma, dry heat, and cold sterilization methods. Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Because of their high melting points, you'll need an all-metal extruder and heated printer bed to reach their minimum printing temperature. Without the heated printer bed, parts will cool too quickly and warp.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

Often used to make parts that will be used near ovens, engines, and other hot machinery, these PEI filaments remain strong and rigid in temperatures that would soften most plastic. They’re a lightweight alternative to machined metal parts. Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Because of their high melting points, you'll need an all-metal extruder and heated printer bed to reach their minimum printing temperature. Without the heated printer bed, parts will cool too quickly and warp.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

Parts made from these PAEK filaments, a family of materials that includes PEEK and PEKK, remain strong in high temperatures and hold up to wear from repeated use. They don’t degrade when exposed to most chemicals, so they’re often used to print parts for demanding chemical processing applications. Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Because of their high melting point, you'll need an all-metal extruder and heated printer bed to reach their minimum printing temperature. Without the heated printer bed, parts will cool too quickly and warp.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Annealing is the process of heating prints to a specific annealing temperature and then slowly allowing them to cool. This makes the finished print harder, stronger, and better at resisting heat. Maximum temperature after annealing replaces the maximum exposure temperature once this process has been completed.

Layers of fibers alternating in four directions makes this carbon fiber stiff at the corners and edges, so it stands up to twisting forces. It also gives you the same stiffness as standard carbon fiber but in a thinner sheet, reducing the overall weight of your application. It's ideal for thin, strong parts—often substituted for aluminum because it's lighter in weight yet almost as rigid.

A checked pattern keeps the fibers from splintering when cut and gives these sheets the classic carbon fiber look. They're glossy but can be sanded for a matte finish.

Stretchy, soft, and sturdy, these filaments make durable parts that resist breakage despite repeated use. Stronger than ABS and PLA filaments, they create long-lasting parts, such as seals, sleeves, and gaskets, as well as components that take on high-impact forces, such as springs and snap-fit parts. These filaments don't require a heated printer bed, and they won't shrink or warp when cooling. Use them with a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. In general, these flexible filaments require a slow feed rate so they don't jam. The softer your filament, the slower your feed rate will need to be. Store them in a sealed container with a desiccant, or use a dehumidifying cabinet, since ambient humidity will cause the plastic to degrade and weaken.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.