Sterilize your printed parts without them expanding, deforming, or weakening. These polysulfone filaments resist steam and heat, so you can sterilize parts in an autoclave. They also can be sterilized with ethylene oxide, radiation, plasma, dry heat, and cold sterilization methods. Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Because of their high melting points, you'll need an all-metal extruder and heated printer bed to reach their minimum printing temperature. Without the heated printer bed, parts will cool too quickly and warp.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

Stretchy, soft, and sturdy, these filaments make durable parts that resist breakage despite repeated use. Stronger than ABS and PLA filaments, they create long-lasting parts, such as seals, sleeves, and gaskets, as well as components that take on high-impact forces, such as springs and snap-fit parts. These filaments don't require a heated printer bed, and they won't shrink or warp when cooling. Use them with a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. In general, these flexible filaments require a slow feed rate so they don't jam. The softer your filament, the slower your feed rate will need to be. Store them in a sealed container with a desiccant, or use a dehumidifying cabinet, since ambient humidity will cause the plastic to degrade and weaken.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Parts printed with these polyester filaments absorb less moisture than other types of plastic, making them ideal for use in wet or humid environments. They are more durable and flexible than PLA, and easier to print than ABS. Use these filaments with fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printers, and print onto a heated print bed. Printing onto a cool surface causes the molten filament to change temperature rapidly, which can warp your designs. Although finished parts are moisture-resistant, these filaments are sensitive to humidity, and should be stored in a dehumidifying cabinet or a sealed container with desiccant for the best printing quality.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Often used to make parts that will be used near ovens, engines, and other hot machinery, these PEI filaments remain strong and rigid in temperatures that would soften most plastic. They’re a lightweight alternative to machined metal parts. Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Because of their high melting points, you'll need an all-metal extruder and heated printer bed to reach their minimum printing temperature. Without the heated printer bed, parts will cool too quickly and warp.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

The most commonly used 3D printing material, these PLA filaments make detailed parts at a low melting point, so they won’t warp as they cool, rarely clog nozzles, and don’t require a heated printer bed. They’re also unlikely to drip and produce plastic strings for a clean finished part. In general, they’re best for printing prototypes instead of load-bearing parts since they’re not as strong as ABS or as heat resistant as PEEK. Print them on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer.

Filaments with an annealing temperature can be heat treated to make parts harder, stronger, and better at resisting heat. To anneal, heat your finished part to the listed temperature and then let it cool slowly.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity. Filaments that can be annealed are also rated for maximum temperature after annealing, which is the new maximum exposure temperature once that process completes.