The most commonly used 3D printing material, these PLA filaments make detailed parts at a low melting point, so they won’t warp as they cool, rarely clog nozzles, and don’t require a heated printer bed. They’re also unlikely to drip and produce plastic strings for a clean finished part. In general, they’re best for printing prototypes instead of load-bearing parts since they’re not as strong as ABS or as heat resistant as PEEK. Print them on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer.

Filaments with an annealing temperature can be heat treated to make parts harder, stronger, and better at resisting heat. To anneal, heat your finished part to the listed temperature and then let it cool slowly.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity. Filaments that can be annealed are also rated for maximum temperature after annealing, which is the new maximum exposure temperature once that process completes.

Parts printed with these polyester filaments absorb less moisture than other types of plastic, making them ideal for use in wet or humid environments. They are more durable and flexible than PLA, and easier to print than ABS. Use these filaments with fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printers, and print onto a heated print bed. Printing onto a cool surface causes the molten filament to change temperature rapidly, which can warp your designs. Although finished parts are moisture-resistant, these filaments are sensitive to humidity, and should be stored in a dehumidifying cabinet or a sealed container with desiccant for the best printing quality.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.