When 3D printing a model with overhangs or hollow spaces, use these filaments to prevent the model from losing its shape. They support the structure during the printing and cooling process, then dissolve or snap away once the part is hardened. Use them in dual-extrusion fused filament fabrication (FFF) printers alongside your primary filament. Unlike parts with supports printed from a single filament, there’s no cutting, sanding, or polishing required.

Choose a filament that has similar printing requirements as your primary filament. You will want to choose a support filament that prints at a similar temperature as your primary filament and has the same requirements for a heated build chamber, so they cool at the same rate and won’t warp.

You should also consider how you will remove the structural support filament from your finished part.

Often used to monitor UV exposure and test UV curing and sterilization equipment, parts made from these filaments change color when exposed to the sun or UV lights. Made from PLA, the most commonly used 3D printing material, they make detailed parts at a low melting point. As a result, they rarely clog nozzles, won’t warp as they cool, and don’t require a heated printer bed. They’re also unlikely to drip and produce plastic strings for a clean finished part. Print them on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

Sterilize your printed parts without them expanding, deforming, or weakening. These polysulfone filaments resist steam and heat, so you can sterilize parts in an autoclave. They also can be sterilized with ethylene oxide, radiation, plasma, dry heat, and cold sterilization methods. Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Because of their high melting points, you'll need an all-metal extruder and heated printer bed to reach their minimum printing temperature. Without the heated printer bed, parts will cool too quickly and warp.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

Best for outdoor use, parts made from these ASA filaments are UV resistant, so they won't warp or crack from prolonged sun exposure. They’re also durable, so they absorb impact without breaking and won’t degrade when heated.

Use with fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. These filaments have a high melting point and must be printed onto a heated bed. Without it, parts will cool too quickly and warp. These filaments also release fumes as they are printed, so use an enclosed printer or a fume exhauster to ventilate them.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.

Fabricate custom bottles, packaging, and other parts for chemical processing. Made of PPSU, these filaments won’t break down even after prolonged exposure to virtually any acid, base, or solvent. They also stand up to oil and fuel, so they’re sometimes made into automotive parts. Because they have a low density and won’t transfer electricity, they make parts that are lightweight and protect components from electric currents. These filaments are easy to store too, since they resist absorbing water. Rated UL 94 V-0, they meet flammability standards.

Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Due to its high melting point, PPSU is more difficult to print than most other materials. You need an all-metal extruder and a heated printer bed to reach its minimum printing temperature. After printing, anneal your part in an oven for 2 to 4 hours to reach its maximum strength, temperature, and ability to resist chemicals.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

Stretchy, soft, and sturdy, these filaments make durable parts that resist breakage despite repeated use. Stronger than ABS and PLA filaments, they create long-lasting parts, such as seals, sleeves, and gaskets, as well as components that take on high-impact forces, such as springs and snap-fit parts. These filaments don't require a heated printer bed, and they won't shrink or warp when cooling. Use them with a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. In general, these flexible filaments require a slow feed rate so they don't jam. The softer your filament, the slower your feed rate will need to be. Store them in a sealed container with a desiccant, or use a dehumidifying cabinet, since ambient humidity will cause the plastic to degrade and weaken.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your printed parts will start to lose structural integrity.