Create a secure base for fasteners in plastic, including brittle 3D printed parts. Press these inserts into straight holes that have been drilled, printed, or molded into plastic. Then, heat them with a soldering tip to melt the surrounding material. As the plastic cools, it fuses to the sharp, diagonal ridges around the inserts, which prevents them from being twisted or pulled out. The interior is fully threaded, so you can access the threads from both sides of a through hole. Also known as Chevron and headed inserts.

The smallest standoffs we offer. These press into unthreaded holes to create permanent connections without welding, tapping, or installing extra hardware. The raised splines prevent rotation, and a recessed head clinches material for a strong hold. A through hole allows installation from one side, making them ideal for compact electronics like laptops and handheld devices.

These nuts are chemical resistant and may be mildly magnetic. Also known as Allen nuts, use them with socket head cap screws in recessed holes and tight spaces that don't have enough clearance for a wrench. Tighten them with a 6-point hex key. They can also be used as an insert by pressing or drawing them into nonhardened steel, cast iron, or soft nonferrous metal or by molding them into plastic, ceramic, fiber, and similar materials.

Also known as Allen nuts, use these with socket head cap screws in recessed holes and tight spaces that don't have enough clearance for a wrench. Tighten them with a 6-point hex key. They can also be used as an insert by pressing or drawing them into nonhardened steel, cast iron, or soft nonferrous metal or by molding them into plastic, ceramic, fiber, and similar materials. Made from alloy steel, they're comparable in strength to Grade 9 bolts.

The barbed sides keep these inserts in place before a screw is installed. They're faster and easier to install in plastic than heat-set or mold-in inserts. However, they lack the same holding power, so they're best for parts that are rarely disassembled. Install inserts with an arbor press or similar pressure tool.

Quicker to install than standard heat-set inserts, these go in either way. There’s no need to check which end is up, so they’re ideal for automated production of parts. Press inserts into straight holes that have been drilled, printed, or molded into plastic. Use a soldering tip to heat them and melt the surrounding material, fusing it to the insert’s sharp ridges.

Add strong, reusable metal threads to plastic. These inserts have external threads that bite into your material to resist pull-out better than press-in inserts. They're a more durable solution than threads cut directly into plastic. Inserts also have flutes that guide loose chips up and out of the way to keep threads clean. To install inserts with a wrench, thread an insert and two hex nuts onto a bolt. Then, grip and turn the top nut to drive into a drilled hole. You can save time by using an installation tool with a ratchet wrench or drill press. Also known as Trisert inserts.

Add threads to untapped holes in aluminum and other soft metal. Since these inserts are tapered, they align with the hole as you press them in. The knurls grip the material to keep inserts from twisting once installed. Inserts can also be used to add threads to tubing. Install them with an arbor press or similar pressure tool.

Press these inserts into a drilled hole, then install a screw to expand them. Inserts won't lose their strength as you remove and reinsert screws during inspection or repair. The sharp diamond knurls dig into the surrounding material for a stronger hold than other press-in inserts for plastic. Install inserts with an arbor press or similar pressure tool.

Press these inserts into a through hole from the underside of your material, and the flange keeps them from going too far. Then, thread in a screw to expand the insert, driving the sharp diamond knurls into the plastic. Install using an arbor press or similar pressure tool. Installed length includes the flange.