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Also known as heavy-pattern thimbles, these can be used to reinforce the loop of a sling.
These thimbles are also known as thin pattern thimbles.
Also known as standard-pattern thimbles, these provide better protection against fraying than light duty thimbles.
Smooth rounded edges and an endless design prevent snags.
The open-end design leaves more room for connections than other thimbles.
A clamp and thimble in one convenient fitting simplifies installation while providing support and fray protection to the wire rope loop. Use a torque wrench to tighten the clamp.
Kits include clamps and thimbles to support a wire rope loop and prevent it from fraying. Clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end.
These clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and the U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Install these clamps without any specific orientation, slide the nut over the rope and tighten it onto the threaded halves with a torque wrench.
These clamps have a forged fabrication and are reliable in critical applications. They are not for making slings. These must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Constructed with a saddle for both the long (live) end and the short (dead) end, these clamps apply equal pressure without crimping or crushing the wire rope, so orientation doesn't matter. Also known as fist grip wire rope clips.
Make a removable loop without specialty tools for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing. Also known as tiller clamps.
Create a loop by feeding the wire rope through the clamp and tighten the set screw to secure it in place. Loosen the set screw to quickly adjust the loop. Also known as Gripple rope clamps. They are for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing.
Use in noncritical applications, such as fencing, where the strength of a forged clamp is not required. Install clamps so the saddle is on the long (live) end and the U-bolt is on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these eye-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Add an eye-end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Install these eye-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these eye-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty eye-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Attach the 90° eye to a surface for support and use the loop to secure the suspended material.
A thimble on the inside of the loop protects the wire rope from fraying.
Attach to a threaded anchor or hole for support and use the loop to secure the suspended material.
The swivel fork allows the lanyard to rotate freely.
A large opening combined with an easy to open latch allows for quick and easy attachment to links and rings.
Made to meet stringent military standards, the fittings on these lanyards meet MS 20668.
Use the twin hooks to suspend items from two points and use the loop to secure the suspended material. For use with cable trays or signs.
Made to meet stringent military standards, the fittings on these lanyards meet MS 20668 and MS 21259.
Create a choker loop around a supporting structure with the snap-hook end and use the loop to secure the suspended material.
The swivel fork ends allow the lanyard to rotate freely.
These slings are more abrasion and cut resistant than web and round slings, yet lighter in weight than mesh and chain slings.
These slings attach quickly and securely to loads with lift attachments.