A bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin makes these shackles more secure than screw-pin shackles.

A bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin makes these shackles more secure than screw-pin shackles.

A bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin makes these shackles more secure than screw-pin shackles.

One end has a bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin for a more secure connection than flush-pin connectors.

Meeting strict standards for lifting, yet flexible and lightweight, these shackles wrap around a variety of lifting points.

A lip on the shackle keeps the screw from falling out when loosened.

To prevent these shackles from snagging or accidentally coming undone, their pin doesn’t stick out from their body.

Secure each end with the cotter pins for temporary installations.

A lip on the shackle keeps the pin from falling out when loosened.

Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.

Since their pin doesn’t stick out from their body, these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a twisted shape to prevent rope and chain from twisting and knotting.

A lip on the shackle keeps the pin from falling out when loosened.

Since they close with a screw pin, these shackles are quick to install and remove by hand, but should only be used in low-vibration environments where they’ll remain stationary. Their narrow opening restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.

Wrap these flexible shackles around a variety of anchor points.

Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access in limited. These shackles have an eye end for connecting to a hook.

Disconnect by pulling the lever or attach rope to the eye on the lever for remote release.

Once secured with the included locking pin, these links must be cut off to be removed.

The wide end of these links has more room for attachments than standard figure-eight links.

Use these links for general lifting applications.

Limit rope and chain movement with the narrow end of these links and attach multiple connectors to the wide end.

The narrow end restricts the movement of rope and chain, and the wide end allows room to attach multiple connectors.

Flat sides allow webbing and strapping to lay flat, so they won't slide and bunch.

Best for attaching different widths of webbing and strapping, the flat sides ensure they lay flat and won't bunch or slide.

Drive the end through the eye using a ball peen hammer and then weld or flatten the extended end to close. These links are also known as cold shuts.

Restrict rope and chain movement with the narrow end, attach multiple connectors to the wide end, and then hammer these links closed.

Also known as C-links, the notch in these links lets you slip additional links on or remove links quickly.

The flat side allows you to connect webbing and strapping, so they lay flat and resist bunching.

Limit rope and chain movement with the narrow end of these links and attach multiple connectors to the wide end.

Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these have a latch to ensure that rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied. They have a latch to ensure rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. The hook opening accommodates large anchor points and allows chain to move freely through the closed hook.

The opening on these hooks fits large anchor points and allows chain to slide through when the hook is closed. They have a spring latch to ensure rope, chain, and fittings won't detach from the hook when the load slackens.

Screw these hooks into place with their threaded shank.

With a narrow opening and contoured sides, these securely hold a single link of chain to prevent overtightening when lifting a load.

A spring-loaded pin ensures chain won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. Connect your chain to the eye end.

These have a latch that locks closed when a load is applied for a more secure connection than standard hooks. They rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.

Rotate these hooks for easy positioning before lifting your load. They have a latch that locks when a load is applied for a more secure connection than standard hooks.

These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.

A ball-bearing swivel allows these hooks to rotate under load. Attach to chain by inserting the included pin through a link.

Use these on thick molds, castings, and objects that don't have attachment points. Also known as foundry hooks.

Easily slip chain, rope, and fittings on and off these open-mouth hooks. Attach your chain to the eye end.

Often used in binding and tie-down applications, these hooks have a narrow opening to securely hold a single link of chain.

The latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

Attach chain to the eye end of these hooks.

The most secure carabiner we offer, these carabiners won’t accidentally open when rope slides because you need to unscrew the latch to unlock them.

Slide the lock down to open the latch and release it to lock these carabiners.

Create fast connections with items, such as rope, chain, and straps.

Squeeze the trigger to quickly release the latch.

A wide opening accepts large diameters of rope and pipe. Squeeze the trigger to release.

Lock the bolt with wire or a cable tie for a secure connection.

These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied to minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.

Use these to adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.

These have split rings that swing freely and pull from the center for easy alignment.

Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain and adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load.

Adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.

The spring-loaded latches on these hooks snap back into place, securing your load.

One side is closed and the other is open.

Bend these S-hooks by hand to hang large and small objects from almost any surface.

Use these S-hooks for lifting applications.

Choose these hoist rings when you need to lift your load from the side.

Remove the shackle after lifting while keeping the base installed for future use.

An indicator dot changes from red to black when these hoist rings are properly tightened, eliminating the need for a torque wrench.

The ball bearing on these hoist rings makes it easy to rotate your load even after it’s suspended.

With three different thread sizes, these hoist rings are useful when you need to lift different types of equipment.

These clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and the U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.

Install these clamps without any specific orientation, slide the nut over the rope and tighten it onto the threaded halves with a torque wrench.

Use in noncritical applications, such as fencing, where the strength of a forged clamp is not required. Install clamps so the saddle is on the long (live) end and the U-bolt is on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.

A clamp and thimble in one convenient fitting simplifies installation while providing support and fray protection to the wire rope loop. Use a torque wrench to tighten the clamp.

Also known as standard-pattern thimbles, these provide better protection against fraying than light duty thimbles.

The open-end design leaves more room for connections than other thimbles.

Keep multiple sleeves on hand in a variety of sizes.

These kits include two compression sleeves paired with two thimbles. The thimbles support the wire rope loops and prevent it from fraying.

Install these stud-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.

Use a new plug when installing a fitting on a different rope.

Place the wire rope and sleeve through a hole in the assembly block and tighten into a vise to hold. Then attach the plug driver on the end of a plug to make hammering in the plug easier.

Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these ball-with-shank-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.

Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these clevis-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.

Add an eye-end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.

Add a mounting plate to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.

Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these hook-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.

Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty mounting-plate-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.

Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty eye-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.