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Screw the pin into position by hand for quick installation and removal. They're for use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.
A bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin makes these shackles more secure than screw-pin shackles.
The strongest shackles we offer, these connectors have a pin with flush ends that prevents snagging and accidental disengagement.
One end has a bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin for a more secure connection than flush-pin connectors.
The pins have flush ends to prevent snagging and accidental disengagement.
Meeting strict standards for lifting, yet flexible and lightweight, these shackles wrap around a variety of lifting points.
For use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.
A lip on the shackle keeps the screw from falling out when loosened.
More secure than screw-pin shackles, these shackles close with a bolt that’s fastened with a nut and a cotter pin.
To prevent these shackles from snagging or accidentally coming undone, their pin doesn’t stick out from their body.
Cotter pins secure each end of these shackles for temporary installations.
Secure each end with the cotter pins for temporary installations.
A lip on the shackle keeps the pin from falling out when loosened.
Indentations in the shackle body hold the head of the pin in place once fastened.
Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
The twisted shape of these shackles keeps rope and chain from twisting and knotting. And if their screw becomes loose, the lip on the shackles prevents it from falling out.
Since their pin doesn’t stick out from their body, these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a twisted shape to prevent rope and chain from twisting and knotting.
The pin doesn’t stick out from their body, so these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
Since they close with a screw pin, these shackles are quick to install and remove by hand, but should only be used in low-vibration environments where they’ll remain stationary. Their narrow opening restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
The bolt on these shackles is fastened with a nut and cotter pin, making them more secure than shackles with a screw pin. Also known as D-shackles, they have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
Wrap these flexible shackles around a variety of anchor points.
The flat side lets webbing and strapping lay flat, so they don’t slide and bunch. These shackles have a pin that screws in, so they’re quick to open and close by hand.
Pull the collar to release the shackle from its locked position.
Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access in limited. These shackles have an eye end for connecting to a hook.
Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access is limited. These shackes have a clevis end for making pivoting connections.
Disconnect by pulling the lever or attach rope to the eye on the lever for remote release.
Hammer the pin through the center to assemble these links. They’re also known as hammer locks and sling links.
Once secured with the included locking pin, these links must be cut off to be removed.
The flat side lets webbing and strapping lay flat, so they don’t slide and bunch.
The wide end of these links has more room for attachments than standard figure-eight links.
Also known as master and sling links, a large inner diameter provides room to attach multiple connectors or legs on a sling.
Use these links for general lifting applications.
Providing better load distribution and alignment than single oblong links, these reduce wear in three and four leg slings.
Limit rope and chain movement with the narrow end of these links and attach multiple connectors to the wide end.
A pear-shaped link and hook for chain shortening allow you to create an adjustable-length chain sling.
Also known as quick links, these links thread closed by hand or with a wrench.
The narrow end restricts the movement of rope and chain, and the wide end allows room to attach multiple connectors.
Use for three-sided connections. Flat sides ensure webbing and strapping lay flat, so they won't slide and bunch.
Flat sides allow webbing and strapping to lay flat, so they won't slide and bunch.
The twisted shape of these links prevents loads from rotating or knotting.
Best for attaching different widths of webbing and strapping, the flat sides ensure they lay flat and won't bunch or slide.
Also known as lap links or repair links.
Drive the end through the eye using a ball peen hammer and then weld or flatten the extended end to close. These links are also known as cold shuts.
Strike the prongs with a ball peen hammer and they expand to hold the connecting link together.
Restrict rope and chain movement with the narrow end, attach multiple connectors to the wide end, and then hammer these links closed.
Often used with transport chain, these links are good for binding, tying down, and pulling loads.
Also known as C-links, the notch in these links lets you slip additional links on or remove links quickly.
Hang, pull, and secure loads. These rings are good for general non-lifting applications.
The flat side allows you to connect webbing and strapping, so they lay flat and resist bunching.
Smaller than lifting oblong links, these links provide room for snaps, carabiners, and other non-lifting connectors.
Slide the clevis pin into these hooks to attach chain. A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't detach from the hook when the load slackens.
Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these have a latch to ensure that rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied. They have a latch to ensure rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
These have a removable half-link to attach large rings, links, and other closed fittings.
A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. The hook opening accommodates large anchor points and allows chain to move freely through the closed hook.
Weld these hooks into place to create a permanent lifting device.
The opening on these hooks fits large anchor points and allows chain to slide through when the hook is closed. They have a spring latch to ensure rope, chain, and fittings won't detach from the hook when the load slackens.
Garolite insulation prevents electrical current from passing to hoists and other lifting equipment, causing damage. Because they're electrical insulating, these hooks are often used to hold a workpiece while welding.
Screw these hooks into place with their threaded shank.
Slide the clevis pin into these hooks to attach chain, no extra fittings needed.
With a narrow opening and contoured sides, these securely hold a single link of chain to prevent overtightening when lifting a load.
A spring-loaded pin ensures chain won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. Connect your chain to the clevis end.
A spring-loaded pin ensures chain won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. Connect your chain to the eye end.
For a more secure connection than standard hooks, these clevis hooks have a latch that locks closed when a load is applied.
These have a latch that locks closed when a load is applied for a more secure connection than standard hooks. They rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.
For a more secure connection than standard hooks, the latch locks closed when a load is applied.
Rotate these hooks for easy positioning before lifting your load. They have a latch that locks when a load is applied for a more secure connection than standard hooks.
For a more secure connection than standard hooks, these hooks have a latch that locks closed when a load is lifted. A ball-bearing swivel allows them to rotate under a load.
These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.
A ball-bearing swivel allows these hooks to rotate under load. Attach to chain by inserting the included pin through a link.
Screw these hooks into place and secure with the included nut.
Insert in eyes, links, rings, and other connectors with small openings. Also known as J-hooks.
Also known as foundry hooks, use these on thick molds, castings, and objects that don't have attachment points.
Use these on thick molds, castings, and objects that don't have attachment points. Also known as foundry hooks.
The flat eye on these hooks keeps webbing and strapping flat, so it doesn’t bunch.
Often used in binding and tie-down applications, these hooks have a narrow opening to securely hold a single link of chain.
Often used in binding and tie-down applications, these securely hold a single link of chain.
Easily slip chain, rope, and fittings on and off these open-mouth hooks. Attach your chain to the clevis end.
Easily slip chain, rope, and fittings on and off these open-mouth hooks. Attach your chain to the eye end.
An unthreaded shank allows you to cut your own threads.
The latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
These swivel hooks have a latch that ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
Attach chain to the eye end of these hooks.
Quickly connect and disconnect these carabiners—they don’t lock.
The most secure carabiner we offer, these carabiners won’t accidentally open when rope slides because you need to unscrew the latch to unlock them.
Hold rope more securely than nonlocking and slide-release carabiners. While these carabiners are not as secure as screw-locking carabiners, they are easier to open.
Slide the lock down to open the latch and release it to lock these carabiners.
Prevent twisting in your rope or line with these swiveling carabiners. To open, pull the latch down, twist 90° and push in.
These snaps have an eye that rotates for easy positioning.
Create fast connections with items, such as rope, chain, and straps.
Squeeze the trigger to quickly release the latch.
For a more secure connection than standard trigger-locking snaps, squeeze the trigger and slide the latch grip down to release.
A wide opening accepts large diameters of rope and pipe. Squeeze the trigger to release.
The force of the load helps keep the arms closed. Press the trigger for quick connection and disconnection.
Lock the bolt with wire or a cable tie for a secure connection.
For easy positioning before a load is applied, these rotate to minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied to minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
Use these to adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.
Adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.
These have split rings that swing freely and pull from the center for easy alignment.
The snap and split ring swing freely and pull from the center for easy alignment.
Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain and adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load.
Join, organize, and suspend objects with these S-hooks.
The spring-loaded latches on these hooks snap back into place, securing your load.
For extra security, these have a latch that snaps back into place to secure your load.
One side is closed and the other is open.
These hooks have closed ends on both sides.
Bend these S-hooks by hand to hang large and small objects from almost any surface.
These hooks meet MS-87006.
Use these S-hooks for lifting applications.
Designed for angular lifting, hoist rings resist stresses that would bend or break an eyebolt. They have a lifting ring that pivots 180° front to back to compensate for roll and sway when lifting heavy or unbalanced loads.
Choose these hoist rings when you need to lift your load from the side.
The fixed base provides added stability and allows you to lift heavy loads with smaller thread sizes.
Remove the shackle after lifting while keeping the base installed for future use.
Keep on hand all the parts needed to assemble custom hoist rings.
An indicator dot changes from red to black when these hoist rings are properly tightened, eliminating the need for a torque wrench.
For a more secure hold than standard hoist rings, weld these hoist rings to your load.
The ball bearing on these hoist rings makes it easy to rotate your load even after it’s suspended.
Easily slip these hoist rings in and out of threaded holes by pushing the button to retract their threads.
With three different thread sizes, these hoist rings are useful when you need to lift different types of equipment.
These clamps have a forged fabrication and are reliable in critical applications. They are not for making slings. These must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
These clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and the U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Constructed with a saddle for both the long (live) end and the short (dead) end, these clamps apply equal pressure without crimping or crushing the wire rope, so orientation doesn't matter. Also known as fist grip wire rope clips.
Install these clamps without any specific orientation, slide the nut over the rope and tighten it onto the threaded halves with a torque wrench.
Kits include clamps and thimbles to support a wire rope loop and prevent it from fraying. Clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end.
Use in noncritical applications, such as fencing, where the strength of a forged clamp is not required. Install clamps so the saddle is on the long (live) end and the U-bolt is on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Make a removable loop without specialty tools for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing. Also known as tiller clamps.
A clamp and thimble in one convenient fitting simplifies installation while providing support and fray protection to the wire rope loop. Use a torque wrench to tighten the clamp.
Create a loop by feeding the wire rope through the clamp and tighten the set screw to secure it in place. Loosen the set screw to quickly adjust the loop. Also known as Gripple rope clamps. They are for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing.
Also known as heavy-pattern thimbles, these can be used to reinforce the loop of a sling.
Also known as standard-pattern thimbles, these provide better protection against fraying than light duty thimbles.
These thimbles are also known as thin pattern thimbles.
The open-end design leaves more room for connections than other thimbles.
Smooth rounded edges and an endless design prevent snags.
These compression sleeves are designed to meet lifting specifications.
Keep multiple sleeves on hand in a variety of sizes.
Use these sleeves for non-lifting applications such as tethering, securing, and suspending.
These kits include two compression sleeves paired with two thimbles. The thimbles support the wire rope loops and prevent it from fraying.
Install these clevis-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Install these stud-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Install these eye-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Use a new plug when installing a fitting on a different rope.
Install these swivel-hook-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Place the wire rope and sleeve through a hole in the assembly block and tighten into a vise to hold. Then attach the plug driver on the end of a plug to make hammering in the plug easier.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these eye-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these ball-with-shank-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these stud-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these clevis-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Add a clevis end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Add an eye-end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Add a stud end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Add a mounting plate to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these eye-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these hook-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these clevis-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty mounting-plate-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty stud-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty eye-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Also known as open wedge sockets, these end fittings require only a torque wrench to install.
A thimble on the inside of the loop protects the wire rope from fraying.
A large opening combined with an easy to open latch allows for quick and easy attachment to links and rings.
Create a choker loop around a supporting structure with the snap-hook end and use the loop to secure the suspended material.
The swivel fork allows the lanyard to rotate freely.
Attach the 90° eye to a surface for support and use the loop to secure the suspended material.
Made to meet stringent military standards, the fittings on these lanyards meet MS 20668 and MS 21259.
Attach to a threaded anchor or hole for support and use the loop to secure the suspended material.
Made to meet stringent military standards, the fittings on these lanyards meet MS 20668.
Use the twin hooks to suspend items from two points and use the loop to secure the suspended material. For use with cable trays or signs.
The swivel fork ends allow the lanyard to rotate freely.
Compress sleeves with less effort than standard compression tools.
Compress sleeves with more force than hydraulic hand tools.
Attach these clamps by running a wire rope through the jaws to create an attachment point anywhere along the wire rope.
Fray rope for splicing and to attach fittings.
Also known as seizing bands, these prevent fraying while cutting wire rope. Wrap the band around the wire rope and squeeze the flat end into the indented end.
Permanently mount this press on a bench top.
Make a removable loop without specialty tools–secure the two halves of these clamps with a screwdriver and the included screws.
Install with a compression tool to create a strong, permanent loop.
Protect the inside of rope loops from fraying.
Thread the screw into the fitting to hold it tight against the rope.
Keep ropes from slipping through pulleys and cleats or create a pull for overhead equipment.
Cut a sleeve to size, slip it over your rope, and shrink with a heat gun.
A lighter and more flexible alternative to wire rope lanyards.
These all-plastic lanyards are an economical alternative to rope and wire rope lanyards.
These links allow you to mount chain with a screw, bolt, or rivet.
Thread chain through the hole of these links to form an adjustable loop or connect chain ends to form a longer chain.
Use these links to connect the ends of chain to form a longer chain or create a loop for key chains and ID tags.
Mount these links in a drilled hole to secure small items such as pens. Links can also be attached as the end of a pull chain.
Also known as ball chain, use this chain to keep tools with machines, keys with chucks, and gas and dust caps with tanks.
The fitting lets you connect the ends of chain to form a longer chain or create a loop for key chains and ID tags.
The chain has flat links that fold back on themselves for maximum flexibility. Use the split ring on one end to hold tags and keys.
The ring pivots 90° or 180° to secure loads in various directions.
These rings mount flush and fold down when not in use to eliminate obstructions.
Accommodate ties in any direction with these rings that swivel all the way around.
Dimples hold the base tight to prevent it from swiveling.
The ring pivots 180° to secure loads in various directions. Also known as lashing rings.
Also known as pad eyes, these rigid rings provide a strong, fixed anchor point.
Accommodate ties in any direction with these rings that swivel all the way around and pivot 180°.
Large holes in the base allow adhesive to flow through.
Adhesive on the back holds these rings in place.
Use these rings to make a temporary anchor point on ferrous metal surfaces.
Clamp around a pipe or tube to guide rope.
Use these guides to position a rope.
Wind rope around these cleats for a secure hold.
Two rotating cams pinch and hold rope as you pull it through to provide a temporary hold.
Press rope into the gripping body of these cleats for a quick hold.
Also known as footman's loops, use these guides to prevent webbing from twisting, or as anchor points in tie-down applications.
Sew webbing onto these plates for a permanent anchor point or run webbing through to use them as guides.
No need for drilling or welding—these guides mount with adhesive.
Use these brackets to mount wooden 2×4 beam for economical load bracing.
These aluminum beams provide lightweight decking and bracing.
Use couplings to connect straps or convert end fittings from male to female.
Contain and organize bulky and oddly shaped loads with these nets.
These straps have a ratchet buckle that tightens incrementally for maximum tension.
Set the amount of tension on these straps to prevent damage from overtightening. They have a ratchet buckle that tightens incrementally.
Quickly increase and release tension over loads: lift the cam on the buckle, pull the webbing through, and release the cam to hold webbing in place.
These bags snap into track to create easy storage.
These guides have a flat slot that accepts webbing and prevents it from twisting.
Snap these hooks into track to hang equipment or attach straps.
Use these plates where full lengths of track won't fit to create one anchor point.
The ring pivots to secure loads in various directions.
These rings pivot to secure loads in various directions.
The closed body protects threads from damage and debris and has a slim profile to fit in tight spaces.
Use these turnbuckles in lifting applications with wire rope. Their closed body not only protects threads from damage and debris, but also keeps these turnbuckles slim enough to fit in tight spaces.
For use with wire rope in light duty applications, these turnbuckles have a closed body that protects threads from damage and debris.
Create a wire rope railing, perimeter, or barrier.
Weld these stubs to parts or use them to push objects apart instead of pulling them together.
Mount these ringbolts into a threaded hole, or use the nut for through-hole mounting. The pivoting ring allows material to move freely.
Anchor these ringbolts where you need them, then remove the ring when not in use. Once installed, the mounting bolt stays in place. Insert the ring by threading into the mounting bolt; remove by unthreading it.
Hang these S-hooks from fencing and railing to route large bundles of material, such as cable, hose, and wire through your facility or worksite to avoid tripping hazards.
Hang cable and other flexible material beneath wire to prevent it from sagging and swaying. To install, hook the two ends of the ring around the wire—no fasteners required.
Also known as bridle rings, routing rings have an open-eye design that allows you to quickly install wire and cable.
These plastic rings won't conduct electricity. Also known as distribution rings, they have a large opening for routing multiple cables. A smooth surface prevents damage to wire and cable.
Made of steel, these durable lanyards hold up in abrasive and high-heat applications.
A quick-stop lanyard must be used when you have less than 18 1/2 ft. of fall clearance as it will stop your fall within a few inches.
Connect two lengths of chain to make longer chain barriers.
Links split in half and snap back together. Use to connect two lengths of chain.
Pull wire and cable while maintaining tension until the line can be permanently anchored. Use these clamps with stranded bare steel wire and cable.
Often used in cable stringing and pulling applications, these connectors lock quickly and stay closed under tension.
Loop these rings onto tags.