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Roller chain links engage with matched sprocket teeth to transmit power between rotating shafts.
Thick side plates allow this chain to handle greater capacity than standard chain.
This 304 stainless steel roller chain is more corrosion resistant than treated steel roller chain.
This treated steel chain has over eight times the capacity of stainless steel chain.
Made of 316 stainless steel, this is our most corrosion-resistant chain.
A rubber ring seals grease between the bushings and pins and keeps out dust and other contaminants.
With oil-embedded bushings and oil-coated pins, this chain is self-lubricating, which means it requires less maintenance than standard ANSI roller chain.
Plastic bushings as well as stainless steel pins and outer side plates give this chain a longer service life than other lightweight chain.
This self-lubricating nickel-plated steel chain has better corrosion resistance than steel chain and does not require regular maintenance.
This treated steel chain has over six times the capacity of stainless steel chain.
Made of stainless steel, this chain has excellent corrosion resistance.
This chain is made of steel.
This steel chain handles higher loads than stainless steel chain.
Also known as leaf chain and counterbalance chain, this chain is used with pulleys rather than sprockets for low-speed pulling and as counterweight chain for machine tools, elevator and oven doors, and forklift masts.
Also known as side bow chain, this chain has extra clearance between components for flexing from side to side on systems with curved tracks and sprockets that aren’t exactly aligned.
These links are made of steel.
Made of treated steel, these links offer increased corrosion resistance over steel attachment links.
Twice as long as standard links, these are designed for use with Double-Pitch ANSI Roller Chain.
Keep an assortment of extra steel links on hand for maintenance and repairs. Assortments include connecting, adding, and adding-and-connecting links.
This treated steel chain has over seven times the capacity of stainless steel chain.
Connect attachments to this metric chain without disassembling it. In addition to letting you add attachments with extension pins or rods for conveyance or elevation applications, the hollow pins on this chain weigh less than standard pins.
With self-lubricating pins and bushings, this metric roller chain requires less maintenance than standard roller chain.
Made of stainless steel, this chain has excellent corrosion resistance and can handle heavier working loads than plastic miniature roller chain.
Also known as quick links, these links thread closed by hand or with a wrench.
The narrow end restricts the movement of rope and chain, and the wide end allows room to attach multiple connectors.
Use for three-sided connections. Flat sides ensure webbing and strapping lay flat, so they won't slide and bunch.
Flat sides allow webbing and strapping to lay flat, so they won't slide and bunch.
Best for attaching different widths of webbing and strapping, the flat sides ensure they lay flat and won't bunch or slide.
The twisted shape of these links prevents loads from rotating or knotting.
Also known as lap links or repair links.
Drive the end through the eye using a ball peen hammer and then weld or flatten the extended end to close. These links are also known as cold shuts.
Strike the prongs with a ball peen hammer and they expand to hold the connecting link together.
Restrict rope and chain movement with the narrow end, attach multiple connectors to the wide end, and then hammer these links closed.
Also known as C-links, the notch in these links lets you slip additional links on or remove links quickly.
Often used with transport chain, these links are good for binding, tying down, and pulling loads.
Smaller than lifting oblong links, these links provide room for snaps, carabiners, and other non-lifting connectors.
Hang, pull, and secure loads. These rings are good for general non-lifting applications.
The flat side allows you to connect webbing and strapping, so they lay flat and resist bunching.
Limit rope and chain movement with the narrow end of these links and attach multiple connectors to the wide end.
Hammer the pin through the center to assemble these links. They’re also known as hammer locks and sling links.
Once secured with the included locking pin, these links must be cut off to be removed.
The flat side lets webbing and strapping lay flat, so they don’t slide and bunch.
The wide end of these links has more room for attachments than standard figure-eight links.
Also known as master and sling links, a large inner diameter provides room to attach multiple connectors or legs on a sling.
Use these links for general lifting applications.
Providing better load distribution and alignment than single oblong links, these reduce wear in three and four leg slings.
A pear-shaped link and hook for chain shortening allow you to create an adjustable-length chain sling.
Screw the pin into position by hand for quick installation and removal. They're for use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.
A bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin makes these shackles more secure than screw-pin shackles.
One end has a bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin for a more secure connection than flush-pin connectors.
The pins have flush ends to prevent snagging and accidental disengagement.
The strongest shackles we offer, these connectors have a pin with flush ends that prevents snagging and accidental disengagement.
Meeting strict standards for lifting, yet flexible and lightweight, these shackles wrap around a variety of lifting points.
Cotter pins secure each end of these shackles for temporary installations.
Secure each end with the cotter pins for temporary installations.
For use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.
A lip on the shackle keeps the pin from falling out when loosened.
Indentations in the shackle body hold the head of the pin in place once fastened.
A lip on the shackle keeps the screw from falling out when loosened.
More secure than screw-pin shackles, these shackles close with a bolt that’s fastened with a nut and a cotter pin.
To prevent these shackles from snagging or accidentally coming undone, their pin doesn’t stick out from their body.
Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
Since their pin doesn’t stick out from their body, these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a twisted shape to prevent rope and chain from twisting and knotting.
The twisted shape of these shackles keeps rope and chain from twisting and knotting. And if their screw becomes loose, the lip on the shackles prevents it from falling out.
The pin doesn’t stick out from their body, so these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
The bolt on these shackles is fastened with a nut and cotter pin, making them more secure than shackles with a screw pin. Also known as D-shackles, they have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
Since they close with a screw pin, these shackles are quick to install and remove by hand, but should only be used in low-vibration environments where they’ll remain stationary. Their narrow opening restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
Wrap these flexible shackles around a variety of anchor points.
The flat side lets webbing and strapping lay flat, so they don’t slide and bunch. These shackles have a pin that screws in, so they’re quick to open and close by hand.
Pull the collar to release the shackle from its locked position.
Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access in limited. These shackles have an eye end for connecting to a hook.
Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access is limited. These shackes have a clevis end for making pivoting connections.
Disconnect by pulling the lever or attach rope to the eye on the lever for remote release.
These links allow you to mount chain with a screw, bolt, or rivet.
Use these links to connect the ends of chain to form a longer chain or create a loop for key chains and ID tags.
Thread chain through the hole of these links to form an adjustable loop or connect chain ends to form a longer chain.
Mount these links in a drilled hole to secure small items such as pens. Links can also be attached as the end of a pull chain.
The links are trimmed to allow chain to sit closer against a chain wheel or sprocket.
Links split in half and snap back together. Use to connect two lengths of chain.