Use these metal dowel pins as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.

Slip these pins in and out during maintenance or prototyping—they’re undersized to make alignment easier.

Cut this 12" stock to the length you need.

The flat side of these pins relieves trapped air, making them easier to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

Center-groove pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The grooved center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot. Also known as type E pins.

Grooves run the full length of these pins for a firm hold that won't spin. Use them in place of standard dowel, spring, and taper pins to fasten parts. Also known as type A pins.

Quarter-groove pins are well suited for hinges or pivots. The grooved end locks pins in position, while the smooth portion can act as a pivot. Also known as type C pins.

These pins have a flat head to fit into a counterbored hole.

Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.

Compared to standard ejector pins, these pins are less likely to chip and crack when used to push steel parts out of molds because they've been hardened through their core. Also known as knockout and forged pins.

The flat end of these ejector blades makes them better suited to push thin-walled parts out of molds compared to ejector pins.

These spiral pins remain flexible after installation, so they absorb shock and vibration better than slotted spring pins. They work well in holes that are out of round.

Choose a material, head type, end type, and size to create a custom pin.

Mount through the counterbored hole with a socket head cap screw to support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side.