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The low-profile head on these pins holds them in place on one side.
These pins combine the locking capabilities of a clevis pin with the precision diameter of a dowel pin for a tight fit.
Also known as universal clevis pins, these pins have holes on 1/4" centers so you can change the length by moving the cotter pin.
A large loop handle makes these pins easy to grip.
A plastic-coated T-handle welded to these pins makes them easy to grab.
Easier to install and remove than standard clevis pins, these pins have a ring-grip handle.
These pins have multiple through holes; change the length by moving the cotter pin. The bend makes them easy to insert and pull out.
Slide a retaining ring into the groove for a secure hold that takes up less space than a cotter pin.
The wire retainer snaps closed to secure the pin for a one-piece alternative to a clevis and cotter pin combination. Also known as PTO pins.
A swivel handle makes these pins easy to install and remove, while the toggle locks them in place. Flip the toggle to release the pin.
A spring holds these pins tight, while a toggle locks them in place. Flip the toggle to release the pin.
These one-piece fasteners lock in place with a toggle. Flip the toggle to release the pin.
For the fastest installation, push these pins into a hole and a spring-loaded wedge pops out to lock them in place. Also known as slic pins.
Sized to fit snugly around pipe and tube, these pins use spring force to keep the retainer closed.
Position, pivot, and align components. Also known as pilot pins and PEM® TP4, TPS, and MPP pins.
The grooves in these pins grip plastics and other soft materials. Press them in to hold panels together. Also known as PEM® TKA and TK4 TackSert pins.
Often used in cell phones and laptops, these pins attach thin panels such as printed circuit boards to metal and plastic bases. Also known as PEM® TA and T4 TackPins.
These pins have a flat head to fit into a counterbored hole.
A 60° beveled head fits into a countersunk hole.
Use these pins with a die to punch 1/8" and larger holes. Pins can be modified to fit your application.
Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.
Compared to standard ejector pins, these pins are less likely to chip and crack when used to push steel parts out of molds because they've been hardened through their core. Also known as knockout and forged pins.
To fit in holes that have widened from wear and are too big for standard ejector pins, these pins are oversized. Also known as knockout and forged pins.
A thick shoulder makes these pins more rigid than standard ejector pins.
The flat end of these ejector blades makes them better suited to push thin-walled parts out of molds compared to ejector pins.
The extra height and smaller width of the grip make the button more accessible in tight spaces. Made entirely of stainless steel, they stand up to corrosive enviroments. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.
Four spring-loaded retaining balls provide extra holding power. Made entirely of stainless steel, these pins stand up to corrosive enviroments. They lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.
These pins adjust to take up play in a system or hold parts in holes of varying thicknesses. Spin the handle up or down, then tighten the locknut to change the length by up to ½”. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.
Also known as double-acting pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button or pull the ring to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. The smooth ring handle won't catch on parts.
Also known as double-acting pins, these pins lock in place until you push or pull the handle to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. The T-handle is easy to grip.
These pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls, and can also be secured with a cotter pin for longer-term holding. Two-step locking prevents accidental removal.
To insert and remove these pins, press the button, then flip the lever to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. Two-step locking prevents accidental removal.
Use the key to unlock these pins, then press the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. Two-step locking prevents accidental removal.
These pins have a low-profile head, so they won't get knocked out of place. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.
Two spring-loaded balls give these pins more holding power than quick-release pins with only one retaining ball. The balls pop out when the pin is pushed into a hole, and retract when the pin is pulled out.
Pass these pins through a mounting hole and weld the head to the surface.
Weld these pins directly to a surface —no mounting hole required.
Slide the pin through a hole then snap the ring down to lock these pins in place. Also known as click pins.
Use an arbor press or similar pressure tool to install these spring plungers into a panel.
Lock the nose in the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.
Install by hand or with a hex key in low-clearance applications.
Thread onto machinery or attach a knob or handle to the threaded spindle.
Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.
Quickly align, join, or hold machine components in place in food, pharmaceutical, and other sanitary environments. Pulling the plunger knob and twisting it 90° will lock the nose into its retracted position.
Retract the nose by pulling the knob.
Two holes in the plate allow these plungers to be mounted to a flat surface.
A flange keeps the plunger from being pushed through a hole when the ball is depressed.
Clevis pins have a hole for a cotter pin on one end to lock them in place.
Insert a pair of these nut-and bolt pins into adjacent flange holes and tighten to align flanges before connecting two pipes.
Line up two pipe flanges and determine pipe angle with the included nut-and bolt pins, level, and protractor.
Ensure horizontal alignment of pipe flanges with a level rod that runs between two alignment pins.
Each step on these aligner pins matches common bolt holes on pipe flanges, so they're more precise than conical aligner pins and don’t require nuts. Press the pair of pins into mated flanges to make sure the flanges are aligned.
The shoulder provides a consistent height reference point and keeps the pin from being pressed through the fixture.
Maintain consistent alignment in mating parts by installing a pin in one part and a liner in the other.
Screw the shank into a threaded hole for quick installation and removal.
A slightly undersized shank makes these pins easy to install and replace. Also known as slip-fit and lock-screw locating pins, they are held in place by a separate lock screw.
The tapered shaft of these pins eliminates the need for hammering and prying when aligning flange bolt holes.
Turn the pin and the tapered shaft forces the two holes into alignment.
Often called bull pins, these pins are designed to resist mushrooming caused by repeated pounding.