We will reply to your message within an hour.
Use these fittings for low-pressure applications in noncorrosive environments.
These flanges are for low-pressure applications in noncorrosive environments.
The galvanized finish on these fittings provides fair corrosion resistance. Fittings are for use in low-pressure applications.
The male threads on these fittings have a sealant applied for extra leak protection.
These fittings can stand up to high-pressure applications. Use them in noncorrosive environments.
A galvanized finish gives these fittings better corrosion resistance than our plain steel high-pressure fittings. Also known as Pressure Class 3000 fittings.
Typically used with medium-pressure galvanized iron and steel threaded pipe fittings. Also known as Schedule 80.
A galvanized finish gives these fittings fair corrosion resistance. They have the strength to handle medium-pressure applications.
For use in noncorrosive environments, these fittings have better strength than our low-pressure iron and steel pipe fittings.
These fittings are strong enough to handle extreme pressures, yet small enough to fit into cramped spaces.
Made to tighter tolerances than other steel pipe fittings, these are also known as instrumentation fittings.
Butt-weld fittings allow for a smooth, flush connection that provides maximum flow.
Crimp these fittings onto steel pipe to form a tightly sealed connection that’s faster than threading or welding and doesn’t require heat.
Socket-connect fittings are easier to weld than butt-weld fittings because the fitting doesn't need to align perfectly to the pipe. Slide the pipe into the socket and weld.
Bolt the flanged end of these fittings to another same-size flange, pump, or valve with a gasket to create an access point in a pipe line.
Also known as no-hub couplings, these have a one-piece sleeve with a stop in the center, so you know your pipe is always aligned correctly.
Distribute air or fluid to multiple locations from a single supply source with these manifolds. They are also known as headers.
Unlike other manifolds, which have an inlet on either end, these have one inlet on the opposite side from the outlets. This design allows air or fluid to follow a straight path, improving flow through your system. Also known as headers.
These fittings have two sleeves for extra gripping power. They bite into steel tubing as you tighten the nut to form a strong seal.
Use these fittings in an air vacuum system to avoid the hassle of brazing and welding. Insert two fittings into a clamp and tighten to form a secure seal in steel tubing.
Metal hose fittings have better durability than plastic barbed hose fittings.
Connect these fittings to air tools for pneumatic applications.
Fittings are threaded on both ends so you can connect them directly to a threaded hose or to pumps, cylinders, and other equipment in your hydraulic system. Use in high-pressure applications up to 6,000 psi
Change thread sizes or types, such as fine to coarse threads, on parts without changing gender.
In addition to joining male- and female-threaded parts, these adapters can increase or decrease metric thread sizes and change the thread pitch.
Change inch threads to metric with these adapters, or swap metric threads for inch. An external hex lets you tighten or loosen them with a wrench.
Need to join two female-threaded parts, such as coupling nuts, with dissimilar inch thread sizes? Attach them to these adapters and tighten the exterior hex nut for a secure connection.
Twist these adapters onto female metric threads to change pitch or switch thread sizes.
Connect two differently sized male-threaded parts, such as threaded rods, and tighten with a standard wrench.
Increase or decrease metric thread size from one male-threaded part to another. Commonly used to connect two differently sized threaded rods, they have a hex-shaped body, so you can tighten them with a standard wrench.
Adapt threaded rods from inch to metric. These adapters connect two male-threaded fasteners, so you can change the gender of a mating part or increase or decrease its thread size. The hex-shaped body fits into the head of a standard wrench.
A black-phosphate finish provides mild corrosion resistance.
These assortments include various sizes of thread-locking inserts.
A closed-end tap, drill bit, and installation bit are included with these inserts.
Adhesive on both the internal and external threads keeps these inserts in place and holds screws tight.
The strongest key-locking inserts we offer, these inserts are made to stringent military specifications.
These inserts come with an installation tool. Drive the keys into the surrounding material for a more secure hold than thread-locking inserts.
Forming the strongest hold of any of our threaded inserts, these inserts have a distorted internal thread to lock screws into place and keys that drive into surrounding material to prevent slipping and rotating.
These inserts cut their own threads in soft metals such as aluminum, so there's no need to tap the hole. Also known as Tap-Lok inserts.
The knurled body holds these inserts in place in aluminum and other soft metals. Use an arbor press to install them in untapped holes.
Steel inserts have high strength for durability.
Ridges on the barrel of these inserts make them less likely to split hardwood than inserts with prongs. They're often used in wood that has been cut across the growth rings.
Fewer prongs than other tee nut inserts reduce the risk of splitting hardwood—these inserts have three short prongs.
Six prongs around the barrel of these inserts provide a strong hold and prevent them from loosening and twisting.
Use where vibration is a concern—these tee nut inserts have distorted threads that lock screws in place.
Hooked prongs give these inserts excellent holding power even when removing screws.
Knurls hold these inserts in hardwoods such as oak, maple, and walnut to prevent twisting.
A wide flange distributes the load over a large area. Hammer these inserts into a drilled hole.
An economical alternative to standard unthreaded spacers.
About twice as strong as aluminum rivet nuts, these steel rivet nuts are zinc plated for mild corrosion resistance.
A hex-shaped body provides the highest twist resistance of any rivet nut.
These kits include one size of low-profile rivet nuts.
About twice as strong as aluminum rivet nuts, these low-profile rivet nuts have a cadmium or tin-zinc plating for corrosion resistance.
A PVC coating minimizes the chance of scratching the surface of your material. These rivet nuts are more corrosion resistant than zinc-plated steel rivet nuts.
These rivet nuts are mildly corrosion resistant.
The coated flange seals out moisture and prevents corrosion.
About twice as strong as aluminum rivet nuts, these rivet nuts are zinc plated for mild corrosion resistance.
Threads float inside the nut so you can install a screw at a slight angle to align with off-center parts. They’re also known as Riv-Float nuts.
Once installed these rivet nuts have a large back flange that distributes the load across a broad area for a strong hold in plastic and composites.
The thread area is enclosed, which prevents leakage past the threads from either side of your application.
Stronger than stainless steel, these nuts are comparable in strength to Grade 9 bolts.
A zinc-plated finish gives these steel inserts mild corrosion resistance.
Protect bolts from sideways (shear) pressure.
A ribbed-shaped body holds the nut in place so it won't move when tightening a screw. Assortments contain rivet nuts, mandrels, nosepieces, and a plier-style installation tool.
Use these rivet nuts for light duty fastening in low-clearance applications. Assortments include rivet nuts, mandrels, and an installation tool.
These rivet nuts have a smooth body and fit in smaller holes than twist-resistant rivet nuts. Assortments include rivet nuts, mandrels, nosepieces, and a plier-style installation tool.
Add a stud to thin material when you only have access to one side.
Join different sizes of conduit.
Reduce the knockout size in an outlet box or enclosure so you can attach a different size of conduit to it.
Seal out moisture while reducing the knockout size in an outlet box or enclosure so you can attach a different size of conduit to it.
Convert from one square drive size to another.
A magnet holds the socket, making changes quicker.
Pivot the head to access fasteners from an angle.
Pull the collar to quickly attach and remove sockets.
Prevent overtightening that can damage fasteners. These adapters spring back slightly when the set torque is reached.
Push the square drive through the adapter to change size.
These adapters are insulated to protect against accidental contact with live electrical circuits. They are tested to 1,000 volts to meet IEC 60900.
Change a standard wrench handle into a ratcheting wrench.
Turn sockets with a bit screwdriver.
Set a desired torque within the range.
Adapters are set to a specific torque and cannot be adjusted.
Use sockets with tools that accept hex shanks, such as impact drivers and power drills.
Make maximum contact on all sides of a fastener to reduce slipping. These sockets are also known as torque adapters.
No need for clamps or connectors—duct and fittings have a male end that is slightly smaller than its female end for simple assembly.
A spiral seam gives this duct greater strength and rigidity than standard duct.
Join duct and fittings with quick-release clamps for faster disassembly and cleanout than other duct systems.
Fittings have gaskets which create a tight seal—you don't need to seal joints with coating or tape.
Often used in tight spaces, such as in walls and ceilings, rectangular duct allows you to select larger sizes without increasing duct height.
These noise reducers mount directly to spiral duct to decrease noise by as much as 50%.
Also called double-loop couplings, these have a flexible center that reduces vibration and compensates for high parallel and angular shaft misalignment.
Each hub includes a set screw (unless noted), which bites into your shaft to hold the coupling in place.
The thick split spider on these couplings takes on twice as much torque as standard split spiders, while a set screw holds the hubs in place on your shaft. Also known as jaw couplings, use them to connect motors to pumps, mixers, and other high-torque equipment.
A strip of flexible spring steel wraps around the teeth of both hubs to absorb sharp, momentary load increases that can come from motor startups, emergency braking, or sudden impact with hard objects.
With a rugged roller-chain design, these couplings provide excellent torque and angular misalignment capacities.
With a rigid gear design, these steel couplings transmit more torque than other couplings of the same size.
Made with lightweight nylon sleeves, these gear couplings require less energy to move than other high-torque flexible couplings. They compensate for parallel, angular, and axial misalignment.
A flexible tire on these couplings safeguards components on your shafts by reducing vibration and shock.
Use these gear-shaped couplings for high-speed and high-torque applications.
Designed to grip evenly around your shaft, clamping couplings provide more holding power than set screw couplings without marring the shaft.
Set screws bite into your shaft to hold these couplings in place.
These couplings have the gripping strength to handle higher torque than most other couplings.
When one of your shafts is undersized from wear, oversized from coatings, or uncommonly sized, machine one end of these couplings to fit. They clamp around your shafts for a secure hold that won’t cause damage.
When you need a strong hold and even grip on shafts that are oversized due to finishes, undersized from wear, or uncommonly sized, we’ll make a coupling for you that fits just right. These couplings clamp around your shafts to prevent marring them.
Install and remove these shaft couplings without disconnecting the shafts, motors, and other attached components—they’re made in two pieces so you don’t need to slide them onto shaft ends. They’re also useful when you have limited access to the ends of the shafts.
For hard-to-access shafts that are oversized from coatings or undersized from wear, we’ll get you a coupling in the right size that clamps on as two pieces, so you don’t need to move your shafts or installed components.
Machine the pilot hole in these couplings to whatever size you need. Often used for shafts that are undersized from wear or oversized from coatings. These couplings are two-piece, so you can remove and reinstall them without moving your shafts.
Reduce the diameter of your shaft while adding length.
Increase the diameter of your shaft while also making it longer.
Adapt your shaft to a threaded end without having to machine threads onto your shaft.
To protect power-transmission components from damage, these couplings will shear or tear in overtorque conditions (approximately 10-20 times the maximum rated torque) to sever connections between shafts.
One side is unfinished for milling custom pulleys, threaded hubs, sprockets, collars, knobs, sensor targets, or just about anything imaginable; the other side is a one-piece clamping coupling for mounting whatever you’ve created to your shaft.
Reduce the ID of sprockets, pulleys, and gears in low-torque applications.
A toothed slot lets these bushings contract for insertion into the bore of your sprocket or pulley and then expand for a snug fit.
Reduce the arbor hole size on a wheel brush so that it fits the shaft on your tool.
Convert a diamond arbor hole to a round arbor hole.
Reduce the diameter of a blade's arbor hole to fit your saw's arbor.
Reduce the inside diameter of a bearing to fit a particular axle size. Also known as spanner bushings.
Save on shipping costs—cut boxes down to size.