Also known as self-regulating heat cable, these heaters automatically adjust heat output at different points along their length to account for differences in environmental temperature. They output their full wattage where temperature is low and heat is needed. Where it’s warmer, they output reduced wattage. They’re often used to maintain liquid temperature and viscosity and provide freeze protection in pipe and tube systems. Heaters can be overlapped without creating hot spots or risking burnout. All require a power connection/termination kit (sold separately).

Heaters with a plastic cable cover are rated for use in hazardous locations. They are also more corrosion resistant and durable than heaters without a cable cover.

Power-connection/termination kits include a junction box and a three-point DIN-mount terminal block for attaching your power source. They also include adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover to seal off the other end of your cable.

Termination kits include adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover to seal off the non-powered end of your cable.

LED termination kits have a high-visibility green LED to indicate when the heater is on. They also include adhesive, an end cap, and a power-connection cover to seal off the non-powered end of your cable.

Splice kits let you connect two heating cables. They include adhesive, splice-connection covers, and wire-splicing connectors.

T-splice kits let you create a tee connection between heating cables. They include adhesive, splice-connection covers, and wire-splicing connectors.

Note: Only install these heaters in accessible locations; do not install them behind walls, underground, or in other difficult-to-access areas. Use fiberglass tape or heat-transfer putty to install them directly on surfaces that are free of dirt, grease, and rough edges. Do not use electrical tape, duct tape, metal bands, or wire. To prevent heat loss and protect heaters from moisture and corrosion, wrap them with fiberglass insulation.