Plastic pins are a nonconductive and nonmagnetic alternative to metal dowel pins. Use them as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.

Slip these pins in and out during maintenance or prototyping—they’re undersized to make alignment easier.

Grooves hold these pins in place, and a round head gives them a finished appearance.

Quarter-groove pins are well suited for hinges or pivots. The grooved end locks pins in position, while the smooth portion can act as a pivot. Also known as type C pins.

Grooves run the full length of these pins for a firm hold that won't spin. Use them in place of standard dowel, spring, and taper pins to fasten parts. Also known as type A pins.

Use these as pivot or hinge pins. The knurled half locks pins in position, while the smooth half acts as a pivot.

The full length of these pins is knurled for a tight grip that won't spin.

To remove these pins, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull them out.

A spiral groove cut into these pins relieves trapped air but stays in 360° contact with the hole for a secure fit that's easy to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

Use these pins to fasten components made of soft materials such as plastic or aluminum. Opposing barbs bite into each piece, pulling them together for a tight, secure fit.

A 60° beveled head fits into a countersunk hole.

Compared to standard ejector pins, these pins are less likely to chip and crack when used to push steel parts out of molds because they've been hardened through their core. Also known as knockout and forged pins.

To fit in holes that have widened from wear and are too big for standard ejector pins, these pins are oversized. Also known as knockout and forged pins.

Screw the threaded end of these metric studs into a tapped hole and use the unthreaded end as a pivot point, hinge, shaft, or locator pin.