We will reply to your message within an hour.
Strengthened edges cut holes up to 4" dia. in fabric, leather, rubber, and soft metal. Also known as arch punches.
Use these punches to make round holes up to 1" dia. in fabric, leather, and rubber.
Make oblong holes in fabric, leather, and rubber. Also known as arch punches.
Attach two punch heads to the handle at the same time to punch a gasket or washer in a single strike.
Sets include common ID and OD sizes to create gaskets and washers in two strikes.
Quickly switch between inner and outer punches to create washers faster than with standard sets.
For accurate punching of inner and outer holes, these sets come with pilots that attach to the outer hole punch.
Slide thin sheets of material into the included die block then punch an inner and outer hole to create a shim or washer.
Screw one of the interchangeable heads into the included handle to create holes up to 3/16" dia. in tight spaces.
Use these one-piece tools to make round holes up to 1 3/4" dia.
Forged steel makes the body of this punch more durable than the Economy Plier-Action Multiple-Size Hole Punch.
The body is cast steel.
Squeeze the spring-return handle to punch round holes of a single size.
Cut keyways at the edges of existing holes. Also known as a keyway nibbler.
Cut DIN-size holes in steel up to 7/64" thick using a driver ram and hydraulic pump.
Use a wrench to cut DIN-size holes in steel up to 1/16" thick.
Create holes for installing heavy duty industrial connectors. When the die and punch are pressed together, four centering mandrels in the die mark where to drill holes for the connector's assembly.
These steel punches cut through aluminum and steel fast to make openings for DB connectors.
The driver supplies eight tons of force to the hole punches in this set to make straight punches.
Rotate the angled head of the driver up to 180° to fit it into tight spaces and supply eight tons of force to the hole punches.
Create larger holes and make repeated punches with these drivers that supply 11 tons of force to the included hole punches.
The included hydraulic driver allows you to punch conduit up to size 2.
Punch conduit up to size 1 1/4.
About half the size of a standard portable lever-operated punch, these punches can fit in your toolbox.
These punches are half the size of standard portable lever-operated punches. They come with punches and dies in varying sizes.
Deliver nearly three times the punching force of a standard portable lever-operated punch by holding one handle and turning the other 360°.
These medium duty tools have more than double the punching force of compact portable lever-operated punches.
A throat depth more than double those of standard bench-mount lever-operated punches allows this tool to reach further past the edge of material.
Use twice the punching force of standard extended-reach punches to make holes in structural steel channels and angle iron.
Roller bearings in the lever provide low-effort punching.
Our most powerful lever-operated punch, the rotary-action socket turns to deliver two to three times the punching force of other bench-mount lever-operated punches.
Includes all six sizes of our individually sold hand-driven hole punches plus a tool to remove punched out material.
Turn the handle of these punches while pushing down to punch holes in cork and rubber.
Our strongest punch, this tool has 35 tons of force to punch through tough materials such as bus bars, railings, and I-beams.
Place these plastic pads under the material you're punching to protect work surfaces and keep punch edges sharp.
These saws have high-speed steel teeth.
The carbide-tipped teeth on these saws last up to twice as long as high-speed steel teeth.
These standard saws have high-speed steel teeth.
The carbide teeth on these saws last up to twice as long as high-speed steel teeth.
Specially designed teeth cut faster than the teeth on standard hole saws.
Quickly connect these saws to your drill or drill press with the built-in arbor.
With two adjustable blades, these saws cut a variety of hole sizes in ceilings, walls, floors, and other surfaces made of drywall, plaster, plastic, and wood. To block flying chips and collect dust, they have a clear debris shield.
The carbide teeth on these steel saws cut hard metal such as steel, stainless steel, cast iron, and titanium.
The diamond-grit edge on these hole saws cuts more accurately, leaves a smoother finish, and lasts up to twice as long as carbide-grit-coated teeth.
These saws have carbide-grit-coated teeth.
An extra-thick steel body with carbide teeth can cut through stainless steel structural framing and electrical enclosures.
These high-speed steel saws cuts through aluminum, brass, bronze, and steel.
Cut through spot welds on sheet metal and make faster, more precise cuts than drill bits and other hole saws.
Make clean, fast cuts in thin metal and plastic when you use one of these saws with an impact driver. The body widens at the top to prevent the saw from pushing through your workpiece.
The carbide teeth on these steel saws cut aluminum, brass, bronze, steel, and plastic sheets and last up to twice as long as high-speed steel teeth.
These saws reduce friction and prevent material buildup when cutting fiberglass and plastic.
Use these saws with a drill press to cut a variety of hole sizes in sheet metal.
Attach these saws to your portable drill to cut a range of large diameter hole sizes in sheet metal.
The saws in these kits have carbide-grit-coated teeth that cut ceramic tile, fiberglass, masonry, plastic, and composites.
These kits have saws with high-speed steel teeth and a steel body.
The saws in these kits have carbide-tipped teeth, so they last up to twice as long as saws with high-speed steel teeth.
Lower cutting depths than standard hole saws make these saws less likely to rip or tear while making smooth, burr-free cuts in sheets.
Enlarge holes by using an existing hole as a guide.
Combine the cutting base and a corner punch to make rounded corners in sheet metal.
Chip ice, start holes in thin metal and wood, and punch holes in leather, plastic, and other soft materials.
Fit these through existing holes and mark the center of the hole in a second workpiece.
Fit the punches in these sets through existing holes and mark the center of the hole in a second workpiece.
Also known as blind-hole spotters, the punches in these sets fit into closed-end holes and mark the center of a complementary hole.
Also known as blind-hole spotters, these punches fit into closed-end holes and mark the center of a complementary hole.
These sets come with three punches for use with a variety of hole sizes. Insert one into an existing hole and twist the handle to open the end of the punch. The point automatically centers once the punch has fit the hole size.
Insert these punches into an existing hole and twist the handle to open the end of the punch. The point automatically centers once the punch has fit the hole size.
Push down on the spring-loaded cone to center the punch in a variety of round and square hole sizes.
Also known as transfer screws, these punches have a uniform shoulder height so you can quickly transfer multiple hole locations at once.
Also known as transfer screws, the punches in these sets can be used in any threaded hole to transfer the hole location. Use the handle to screw a punch into a hole.
The punches in these sets have a uniform shoulder height so you can quickly transfer multiple hole locations at once. Also known as transfer screws.
Align the level to find and mark the vertical center of curved surfaces.
Locate and mark the centerline on rods, tubes, and pipes, lay out keyways, and establish angles for connections.
Find the center of square and round materials, such as structural framing and pipe, and determine setup angles on milling machines and grinders.
With an internal spring mechanism, these punches offer one-hand operation when marking hole centers.
With an internal spring mechanism, these Starrett punches offer one-hand operation when marking hole centers.
Also known as center punches, the tools in these sets mark hole centers in metal and other materials.
Also known as center punches, strike these with a hammer to mark hole centers in metal and other materials.
Use the Starrett punches in these sets to mark hole centers in metal and other materials. Also known as center punches.
Strike these Starrett punches with a hammer to mark hole centers in metal and other materials. Also known as center punches.
Ground to a sharper tip than other center-marking punches, these tools make the precision marks required for the intersection of lines and other detailed tasks. They're also known as prick punches.
Made of aluminum-bronze that is Factory Mutual approved, these nonmagnetic, corrosion-resistant tools inhibit sparking.
Punch has two viewing lenses. One has a circle and dot and one has a crosshair to enable you to pinpoint the location where you need to punch. Replace the lens with one of the two included punches and strike it with a hammer to mark the hole center.
Punch soft materials and scribe lines in metal and wood.
An insulated handle and shaft protects against shock from accidental contact with live electrical circuits. These awls are tested to 1,000 volts to meet IEC 60900 and ASTM F1505.
Made of beryllium copper that is Factory Mutual approved, these nonmagnetic, corrosion-resistant tools inhibit sparking.
Punch a hole in your material to prepare for the installation of fabric grommets. Strike these tools with a mallet.
These punches set grommets that have a standard washer, tooth lock washer, or an extended-neck washer.
These punches set grommets that have an extended-neck tooth lock washer.
Install standard and dual-sided fabric snaps with one push of the handle.
Squeeze the adjustable handle to install standard and dual-sided fabric snaps and fabric grommets.
Strike the punch with a mallet to set standard fabric snap halves.
These tools create a hole in the material to prepare for the installation of turn-button fastener eyelets.
Use these tools to drive the threaded stud into a solid surface.
Minimize damage to your work surfaces with these brass punches, which are softer than steel punches.
Impact-resistant steel makes these punches stronger and more durable than standard pin-removal punches.
Use these sets to knock out pins and rivets that have already been loosened.
The punches in these sets have a knurled handle, which offers a more secure grip than standard punches. Use them to knock out pins and rivets that have already been loosened.
The rounded tip of these punches fits into the open ends of hollow and spring pins to protect them from damage during removal.
Loosen pins and rivets before removal.
Knock out pins and rivets that have already been loosened. These tools are also known as pin punches.
The knurled handle of these punches offers a more secure grip than standard punches. Use pin-removal punches to knock out pins and rivets that have already been loosened.
Made of materials that are Factory Mutual approved, these nonmagnetic, corrosion-resistant tools inhibit sparking. They satisfy OSHA requirements for nonsparking tools.
A soft brass body minimizes the damage these punches make on work surfaces.
A hammer and punch in one, this tool knocks out pins, rivets, and bolts.
Contains pin-loosening, pin-removal, and center-marking punches as well as chisels.
Contains pin-loosening, pin-removal, and center-marking punches.
Line up holes by driving these pins through existing rivet, pin, and bolt holes in multiple pieces of metal. Alternatively known as lineup taper punches.
When one side wears out, use the other one. Also known as barrel drift pins.
Often called bull pins, these pins are designed to resist mushrooming caused by repeated pounding.
When one side wears out, use the other one.
Made from aluminum-bronze that is Factory Mutual approved, these nonmagnetic, corrosion-resistant tools inhibit sparking. They satisfy OSHA requirements for nonsparking tools.
These brass tools reduce marring on metal surfaces because they're softer than steel punches.
Turn the pin and the tapered shaft forces the two holes into alignment.
The tapered shaft of these pins eliminates the need for hammering and prying when aligning flange bolt holes.
Use alignment pins to align structural components such as I-beams and angle iron for bolting, riveting, and welding.
Sets include three punches in various point diameters to set nails flush or drive them out of view without damaging wood surfaces.
Set nails flush or drive them out of view without damaging wood surfaces.
Use these pins with a die to punch 1/8" and larger holes. Pins can be modified to fit your application.
These pins have a flat head to fit into a counterbored hole.
A 60° beveled head fits into a countersunk hole.
Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.
Compared to standard ejector pins, these pins are less likely to chip and crack when used to push steel parts out of molds because they've been hardened through their core. Also known as knockout and forged pins.
To fit in holes that have widened from wear and are too big for standard ejector pins, these pins are oversized. Also known as knockout and forged pins.
A thick shoulder makes these pins more rigid than standard ejector pins.
The flat end of these ejector blades makes them better suited to push thin-walled parts out of molds compared to ejector pins.
Use these sleeves with mold pins to form holes, bosses, and other features in parts, and then push the parts out of the mold.
Kits include a hand punch tool with die and six complete snaps with tapping screw studs.
Kits include a hand punch tool with die and six complete snaps.
Mark surfaces with unique characters for traceability, quality control, and inspection.
Choose only the characters you need to make your message from 0-9, A-Z, period, forward slash (/), dash, and blank spaces.
Less than 2" wide, these stampes let you choose only the characters you need from 0-9, A-Z, and blank spaces.
The thick shank provides more control and consistent marks than our standard metal stamps. Make marks on surfaces with a Rockwell hardness up to C30, including leather, wood, and most metals. Stamps are steel.
Make marks on surfaces with a Rockwell hardness up to C30, including leather, wood, and most metals. Stamps are steel.
Make marks on surfaces with a Rockwell hardness up to C30, including leather, wood, and most metals.
Make marks on surfaces with a Rockwell hardness up to C50, including stainless steel and heat-treated steel.
These stamps have a solid face.
Create raised lettering similar to a license plate with these reverse-face stamps. Impressions are made on the backside of metals for an embossed character on the front.
These stamps have a border around the characters to help them stand out.
These stamps provide an entire number set in the convenience of one handheld stamp. Rotate the wheel to change the character.
The thick shank provides more control for more consistent marks than our standard metal stamps. Make marks on surfaces with a Rockwell hardness up to C30, including leather, wood, and most metals. Stamps are steel.
Mark keys with common messages such as "Do Not Copy" and "Master".
Punch holes, letters, or numbers through copier paper, laminated cardstock, and business cards.
Create flares around already-cut holes in sheet metal up to 3/16" thick to make the edges stronger and more rigid. Also known as dimple dies.
Create a raised edge in sheet metal that locks into the rolled edge of another piece.
Also known as 40‐ton metalworkers, these hydraulic machines handle a variety of forming tasks including pressing, punching, notching, and shearing.
Secure a hole saw to a drill or drill press with one of these arbors and use the built-in pilot drill to guide the hole saw.
Switch hole saws without using adapters or special tools.
Used in CNC and milling machines, these broaches turn round holes into hexagonal ones with more accuracy than traditional push broaches.
Changing round holes into a square shape more accurately than traditional push broaches, these broaches go in CNC and milling machines.
Transform round holes into finely finished hex-shaped holes.
Line up two pipe flanges and determine pipe angle with the included nut-and bolt pins, level, and protractor.
Ensure horizontal alignment of pipe flanges with a level rod that runs between two alignment pins.
Each step on these aligner pins matches common bolt holes on pipe flanges, so they're more precise than conical aligner pins and don’t require nuts. Press the pair of pins into mated flanges to make sure the flanges are aligned.
Insert a pair of these nut-and bolt pins into adjacent flange holes and tighten to align flanges before connecting two pipes.
Kits include grommets, a cutting punch, a cutting block, an installation punch, and a die set. Use them to create a way to run rope and cable through tarps, covers, and curtains.
Templates, bolt breakers, wrench bits, and adapters for installing bolt-on lacing.
Precisely align drilled holes in two parts.