These switches are housed in a plastic enclosure. Since they’re already protected, you can mount them to a wall if there’s no space left in your electrical panel. You can also turn them into a handheld control and move them around your workstation by attaching a cord and cord grip. The enclosure is plastic, so it won’t swell in moist environments. Easy to operate even if you’re wearing gloves, flip the toggle switch up and down. Use these switches to turn motors on and off, or with lighting and electric heat circuits. They do not provide overload protection.

Combine a switch with a thermal overload element to build a starter that can handle high-current-rated motors. All are housed in a durable steel enclosure. They’re also known as NEMA starters.

Thermal overload elements shut motors off if current exceeds the full-load current rating. Three elements are required. To Order: Please specify the full-load current rating of your motor. If the full-load current rating is not shown on the motor’s faceplate, estimate the current rating (given the motor’s power and voltage).

Housed in a durable steel enclosure, these starters have sealed coils for protection against moisture, heat, dirt, and mechanical and thermal stress. They have a solid state overload relay that extends motor life in demanding applications and protects it from overloads—starters will shut the motor off if current exceeds the full-load current rating. The relay is adjustable; set it for the exact overload current needed. All have auxiliary contacts to send a signal or connect to another device, such as an alarm or indicating light. Also known as NEMA starters.

Note: The full-load current rating of your motor must fall within the starter’s overload current range. Match input voltage, also known as coil voltage, to your control circuit; motor voltage may be different. Look for the full-load current rating on the motor’s faceplate, or estimate the current rating (given the motor’s power and voltage).

Set these controls to automatically adjust motor speed. Wire a potentiometer (not included) for remote manual control.

If there’s a power outage, flip the toggle for each circuit on these switches to backup power. Each circuit can also be turned off completely. To prevent injury and damage to your generators, they are open transition, meaning the contacts disconnect from one power source before connecting to another. This is also known as break-before-make switching.

Use them with a portable generator.

Use these controls with motors that run forward and backward, such as motors for conveyor belts. They convert AC input voltage into DC output voltage and control the speed of permanent-magnet DC motors. Housed in a durable steel enclosure.

Heat Sinks—A heat sink (sold separately) is required with outputs greater than 5 amps.

Restore lighting immediately during power outages. These switches detect when your main power source goes out and shift your lights to a backup, such as a secondary utility source or generator. To comply with UL 924 and help you meet NFPA standards, they turn your lights on at full brightness even if the lights were turned off or dimmed. You can also wire these switches to your fire alarm. Pull the alarm to activate lights to full brightness during emergencies, even without an outage. All have passed testing to meet UL 1008, a safety standard for transfer switches.

An LED indicator tells you whether lights are running on a primary or backup power source. The indicator also tells you when these switches require maintenance.

Remote Testing Buttons—Add a remote testing button to check if switches behind the wall or ceiling are working properly.

Housed in a durable steel enclosure, these controls convert AC input voltage into DC output voltage and control the speed of permanent-magnet DC motors.

Heat Sinks—A heat sink (sold separately) is required with outputs greater than 5 amps.