Slip these pins in and out during maintenance or prototyping—they’re undersized to make alignment easier.

Cut this 12" stock to the length you need.

The flat side of these pins relieves trapped air, making them easier to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

Grooves run the full length of these pins for a firm hold that won't spin. Use them in place of standard dowel, spring, and taper pins to fasten parts. Also known as type A pins.

Center-groove pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The grooved center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot. Also known as type E pins.

Quarter-groove pins are well suited for hinges or pivots. The grooved end locks pins in position, while the smooth portion can act as a pivot. Also known as type C pins.

For use with Browning shear hubs, these pins are designed to fail at specific loads to protect heavy duty machinery from torque overload.

These pins combine the locking capabilities of a clevis pin with the precision diameter of a dowel pin for a tight fit.

A large loop handle makes these pins easy to grip.

These pins have multiple through holes; change the length by moving the cotter pin. The bend makes them easy to insert and pull out.

Easier to install and remove than standard clevis pins, these pins have a ring-grip handle.

Install or remove these pins from either side. Slide a retaining ring into the groove for a secure hold that takes up less space than a cotter pin.

A swivel handle makes these pins easy to install and remove, while the toggle locks them in place. Flip the toggle to release the pin.

These pins have a low-profile head, so they won't get knocked out of place. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A T-handle makes these pins easy to grip. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A T-handle makes these pins easy to grip. The shoulder keeps a portion of the pin outside the hole and makes them easy to grab.

Use these pins for visibility or to color-code processes. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, they lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

When there isn't enough room for a T-handle, an L-handle saves space but is still easy to grip. For a more secure hold than standard quick-release pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

A recessed button prevents accidental pin removal. These all-stainless steel pins stand up to corrosive environments. They lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

A T-handle makes these pins easy to grip. Made entirely of stainless steel, they stand up to corrosive enviroments. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

Also known as double-acting pins, these pins lock in place until you push the button or pull the ring to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. The smooth ring handle won't catch on parts.

Use the key to unlock these pins, then press the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. Two-step locking prevents accidental removal.

Push parts out of molds with these hardened pins. Also known as knockout and forged pins.

For parts that spin or are otherwise difficult to access, slide these pins in and tap them with a hammer for a temporary hold. Reposition work, then bend the prongs outward to secure.

These spiral pins remain flexible after installation, so they absorb shock and vibration better than slotted spring pins. They work well in holes that are out of round.

Create a custom headed pin with your choice of material, dimensions, and end type.

These 18-8 stainless steel anchors have good chemical resistance.

Install like a stud anchor—just thread the anchor, a nut, and a washer onto the end of a threaded rod, drive into a hole, and turn the nut to expand the base. Also known as rod anchors, they're often used with threaded rod to hang pipe and wiring.

A zinc plating provides corrosion resistance in wet environments.

A tamper-resistant nut prevents unwanted removal of the object you are anchoring.

Bolts are beveled under the head for a flush finish in countersunk holes.

These stud anchors strengthen the parts of buildings where steel framing connects to concrete. They’re also known as Nelson studs.

Mount through the counterbored hole with a socket head cap screw to support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side.