Fabricate custom bottles, packaging, and other parts for chemical processing. Made of PPSU, these filaments won’t break down even after prolonged exposure to virtually any acid, base, or solvent. They also stand up to oil and fuel, so they’re sometimes made into automotive parts. Because they have a low density and won’t transfer electricity, they make parts that are lightweight and protect components from electric currents. These filaments are easy to store too, since they resist absorbing water. Rated UL 94 V-0, they meet flammability standards.

Print these filaments on a fused filament fabrication (FFF) 3D printer. Due to its high melting point, PPSU is more difficult to print than most other materials. You need an all-metal extruder and a heated printer bed to reach its minimum printing temperature. After printing, anneal your part in an oven for 2 to 4 hours to reach its maximum strength, temperature, and ability to resist chemicals.

Maximum exposure temperature is the point at which a printed part will begin to deform. Above this temperature, your part will start to lose structural integrity.

When 3D printing a model with overhangs or hollow spaces, use these filaments to prevent the model from losing its shape. They support the structure during the printing and cooling process, then dissolve or snap away once the part is hardened. Use them in dual-extrusion fused filament fabrication (FFF) printers alongside your primary filament. Unlike parts with supports printed from a single filament, there’s no cutting, sanding, or polishing required.

Choose a filament that has similar printing requirements as your primary filament. You will want to choose a support filament that prints at a similar temperature as your primary filament and has the same requirements for a heated build chamber, so they cool at the same rate and won’t warp.

You should also consider how you will remove the structural support filament from your finished part.