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These snaps have an eye that rotates for easy positioning.
Create fast connections with items, such as rope, chain, and straps.
Squeeze the trigger to quickly release the latch.
For a more secure connection than standard trigger-locking snaps, squeeze the trigger and slide the latch grip down to release.
A wide opening accepts large diameters of rope and pipe. Squeeze the trigger to release.
The force of the load helps keep the arms closed. Press the trigger for quick connection and disconnection.
Lock the bolt with wire or a cable tie for a secure connection.
Also known as master and sling links, a large inner diameter provides room to attach multiple connectors or legs on a sling.
Use these links for general lifting applications.
Providing better load distribution and alignment than single oblong links, these reduce wear in three and four leg slings.
Limit rope and chain movement with the narrow end of these links and attach multiple connectors to the wide end.
Hammer the pin through the center to assemble these links. They’re also known as hammer locks and sling links.
Once secured with the included locking pin, these links must be cut off to be removed.
The wide end of these links has more room for attachments than standard figure-eight links.
The flat side lets webbing and strapping lay flat, so they don’t slide and bunch.
A pear-shaped link and hook for chain shortening allow you to create an adjustable-length chain sling.
Also known as quick links, these links thread closed by hand or with a wrench.
The twisted shape of these links prevents loads from rotating or knotting.
The narrow end restricts the movement of rope and chain, and the wide end allows room to attach multiple connectors.
Flat sides allow webbing and strapping to lay flat, so they won't slide and bunch.
Best for attaching different widths of webbing and strapping, the flat sides ensure they lay flat and won't bunch or slide.
Use for three-sided connections. Flat sides ensure webbing and strapping lay flat, so they won't slide and bunch.
Also known as lap links or repair links.
Drive the end through the eye using a ball peen hammer and then weld or flatten the extended end to close. These links are also known as cold shuts.
Restrict rope and chain movement with the narrow end, attach multiple connectors to the wide end, and then hammer these links closed.
Strike the prongs with a ball peen hammer and they expand to hold the connecting link together.
Also known as C-links, the notch in these links lets you slip additional links on or remove links quickly.
Often used with transport chain, these links are good for binding, tying down, and pulling loads.
Hang, pull, and secure loads. These rings are good for general non-lifting applications.
The flat side allows you to connect webbing and strapping, so they lay flat and resist bunching.
Smaller than lifting oblong links, these links provide room for snaps, carabiners, and other non-lifting connectors.
Screw the pin into position by hand for quick installation and removal. They're for use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.
A bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin makes these shackles more secure than screw-pin shackles.
The strongest shackles we offer, these connectors have a pin with flush ends that prevents snagging and accidental disengagement.
The pins have flush ends to prevent snagging and accidental disengagement.
One end has a bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin for a more secure connection than flush-pin connectors.
Meeting strict standards for lifting, yet flexible and lightweight, these shackles wrap around a variety of lifting points.
Pull the collar to release the shackle from its locked position.
Disconnect by pulling the lever or attach rope to the eye on the lever for remote release.
Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access is limited. These shackes have a clevis end for making pivoting connections.
Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access in limited. These shackles have an eye end for connecting to a hook.
A lip on the shackle keeps the screw from falling out when loosened.
More secure than screw-pin shackles, these shackles close with a bolt that’s fastened with a nut and a cotter pin.
To prevent these shackles from snagging or accidentally coming undone, their pin doesn’t stick out from their body.
For use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.
The bolt on these shackles is fastened with a nut and cotter pin, making them more secure than shackles with a screw pin. Also known as D-shackles, they have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
Since they close with a screw pin, these shackles are quick to install and remove by hand, but should only be used in low-vibration environments where they’ll remain stationary. Their narrow opening restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
A lip on the shackle keeps the pin from falling out when loosened.
Indentations in the shackle body hold the head of the pin in place once fastened.
The pin doesn’t stick out from their body, so these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
The flat side lets webbing and strapping lay flat, so they don’t slide and bunch. These shackles have a pin that screws in, so they’re quick to open and close by hand.
Cotter pins secure each end of these shackles for temporary installations.
Wrap these flexible shackles around a variety of anchor points.
Since their pin doesn’t stick out from their body, these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a twisted shape to prevent rope and chain from twisting and knotting.
Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
Secure each end with the cotter pins for temporary installations.
The twisted shape of these shackles keeps rope and chain from twisting and knotting. And if their screw becomes loose, the lip on the shackles prevents it from falling out.
Adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.
These have split rings that swing freely and pull from the center for easy alignment.
Use these to adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.
Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain and adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load.
The snap and split ring swing freely and pull from the center for easy alignment.
For easy positioning before a load is applied, these rotate to minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied to minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
Quickly connect and disconnect these carabiners—they don’t lock.
The most secure carabiner we offer, these carabiners won’t accidentally open when rope slides because you need to unscrew the latch to unlock them.
Hold rope more securely than nonlocking and slide-release carabiners. While these carabiners are not as secure as screw-locking carabiners, they are easier to open.
Slide the lock down to open the latch and release it to lock these carabiners.
Prevent twisting in your rope or line with these swiveling carabiners. To open, pull the latch down, twist 90° and push in.
Designed for angular lifting, hoist rings resist stresses that would bend or break an eyebolt. They have a lifting ring that pivots 180° front to back to compensate for roll and sway when lifting heavy or unbalanced loads.
Keep on hand all the parts needed to assemble custom hoist rings.
With three different thread sizes, these hoist rings are useful when you need to lift different types of equipment.
For a more secure hold than standard hoist rings, weld these hoist rings to your load.
An indicator dot changes from red to black when these hoist rings are properly tightened, eliminating the need for a torque wrench.
The fixed base provides added stability and allows you to lift heavy loads with smaller thread sizes.
The ball bearing on these hoist rings makes it easy to rotate your load even after it’s suspended.
Easily slip these hoist rings in and out of threaded holes by pushing the button to retract their threads.
Choose these hoist rings when you need to lift your load from the side.
Remove the shackle after lifting while keeping the base installed for future use.
Easily slip chain, rope, and fittings on and off these open-mouth hooks. Attach your chain to the eye end.
Easily slip chain, rope, and fittings on and off these open-mouth hooks. Attach your chain to the clevis end.
An unthreaded shank allows you to cut your own threads.
Often used in binding and tie-down applications, these securely hold a single link of chain.
These swivel hooks have a latch that ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
Often used in binding and tie-down applications, these hooks have a narrow opening to securely hold a single link of chain.
Attach chain to the eye end of these hooks.
The latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
Also known as foundry hooks, use these on thick molds, castings, and objects that don't have attachment points.
Use these on thick molds, castings, and objects that don't have attachment points. Also known as foundry hooks.
For a more secure connection than standard hooks, these clevis hooks have a latch that locks closed when a load is applied.
A ball-bearing swivel allows these hooks to rotate under load. Attach to chain by inserting the included pin through a link.
These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.
For a more secure connection than standard hooks, these hooks have a latch that locks closed when a load is lifted. A ball-bearing swivel allows them to rotate under a load.
Rotate these hooks for easy positioning before lifting your load. They have a latch that locks when a load is applied for a more secure connection than standard hooks.
For a more secure connection than standard hooks, the latch locks closed when a load is applied.
Screw these hooks into place and secure with the included nut.
These have a latch that locks closed when a load is applied for a more secure connection than standard hooks. They rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.
Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these have a latch to ensure that rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
Screw these hooks into place with their threaded shank.
Slide the clevis pin into these hooks to attach chain. A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't detach from the hook when the load slackens.
Garolite insulation prevents electrical current from passing to hoists and other lifting equipment, causing damage. Because they're electrical insulating, these hooks are often used to hold a workpiece while welding.
Weld these hooks into place to create a permanent lifting device.
These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied. They have a latch to ensure rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
These have a removable half-link to attach large rings, links, and other closed fittings.
The opening on these hooks fits large anchor points and allows chain to slide through when the hook is closed. They have a spring latch to ensure rope, chain, and fittings won't detach from the hook when the load slackens.
A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. The hook opening accommodates large anchor points and allows chain to move freely through the closed hook.
A spring-loaded pin ensures chain won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. Connect your chain to the clevis end.
With a narrow opening and contoured sides, these securely hold a single link of chain to prevent overtightening when lifting a load.
Slide the clevis pin into these hooks to attach chain, no extra fittings needed.
A spring-loaded pin ensures chain won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. Connect your chain to the eye end.
Insert in eyes, links, rings, and other connectors with small openings. Also known as J-hooks.
The flat eye on these hooks keeps webbing and strapping flat, so it doesn’t bunch.
For extra security, these have a latch that snaps back into place to secure your load.
These hooks meet MS-87006.
The spring-loaded latches on these hooks snap back into place, securing your load.
Bend these S-hooks by hand to hang large and small objects from almost any surface.
Join, organize, and suspend objects with these S-hooks.
These hooks have closed ends on both sides.
One side is closed and the other is open.
Use these S-hooks for lifting applications.
These clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and the U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Install these clamps without any specific orientation, slide the nut over the rope and tighten it onto the threaded halves with a torque wrench.
Constructed with a saddle for both the long (live) end and the short (dead) end, these clamps apply equal pressure without crimping or crushing the wire rope, so orientation doesn't matter. Also known as fist grip wire rope clips.
These clamps have a forged fabrication and are reliable in critical applications. They are not for making slings. These must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Kits include clamps and thimbles to support a wire rope loop and prevent it from fraying. Clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end.
Make a removable loop without specialty tools for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing. Also known as tiller clamps.
Use in noncritical applications, such as fencing, where the strength of a forged clamp is not required. Install clamps so the saddle is on the long (live) end and the U-bolt is on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Create a loop by feeding the wire rope through the clamp and tighten the set screw to secure it in place. Loosen the set screw to quickly adjust the loop. Also known as Gripple rope clamps. They are for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing.
A clamp and thimble in one convenient fitting simplifies installation while providing support and fray protection to the wire rope loop. Use a torque wrench to tighten the clamp.
Also known as standard-pattern thimbles, these provide better protection against fraying than light duty thimbles.
These thimbles are also known as thin pattern thimbles.
Also known as heavy-pattern thimbles, these can be used to reinforce the loop of a sling.
The open-end design leaves more room for connections than other thimbles.
Smooth rounded edges and an endless design prevent snags.
These compression sleeves are designed to meet lifting specifications.
Keep multiple sleeves on hand in a variety of sizes.
Use these sleeves for non-lifting applications such as tethering, securing, and suspending.
These kits include two compression sleeves paired with two thimbles. The thimbles support the wire rope loops and prevent it from fraying.
Install these stud-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Install these clevis-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Install these eye-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Install these swivel-hook-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Place the wire rope and sleeve through a hole in the assembly block and tighten into a vise to hold. Then attach the plug driver on the end of a plug to make hammering in the plug easier.
Use a new plug when installing a fitting on a different rope.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these hook-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these eye-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these clevis-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty eye-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Add a stud end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty mounting-plate-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Add a clevis end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Add a mounting plate to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty stud-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Add an eye-end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Also known as open wedge sockets, these end fittings require only a torque wrench to install.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these eye-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these stud-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these ball-with-shank-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these clevis-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Secure a ball with shank to a flat surface.
Make a removable loop without specialty tools.
Install with a compression tool to create a strong, permanent loop.
Protect the inside of rope loops from fraying.
Cut a sleeve to size, slip it over your rope, and shrink with a heat gun.
Thread the screw into the fitting to hold it tight against the rope.
Keep ropes from slipping through pulleys and cleats or create a pull for overhead equipment.
Compress sleeves with less effort than standard compression tools.
Compress sleeves with more force than hydraulic hand tools.
Permanently mount this press on a bench top.
Clamp around a pipe or tube to guide rope.
Use these guides to position a rope.
Press rope into the gripping body of these cleats for a quick hold.
Wind rope around these cleats for a secure hold.
Two rotating cams pinch and hold rope as you pull it through to provide a temporary hold.
The base of these hooks grip rope.
Often used in cable stringing and pulling applications, these connectors lock quickly and stay closed under tension.
Hang these S-hooks from fencing and railing to route large bundles of material, such as cable, hose, and wire through your facility or worksite to avoid tripping hazards.
For use with wire rope in light duty applications, these turnbuckles have a closed body that protects threads from damage and debris.