For a more secure connection than standard trigger-locking snaps, squeeze the trigger and slide the latch grip down to release.

The force of the load helps keep the arms closed. Press the trigger for quick connection and disconnection.

Also known as master and sling links, a large inner diameter provides room to attach multiple connectors or legs on a sling.

Providing better load distribution and alignment than single oblong links, these reduce wear in three and four leg slings.

Hammer the pin through the center to assemble these links. They’re also known as hammer locks and sling links.

The wide end of these links has more room for attachments than standard figure-eight links.

Also known as quick links, these links thread closed by hand or with a wrench.

The narrow end restricts the movement of rope and chain, and the wide end allows room to attach multiple connectors.

Best for attaching different widths of webbing and strapping, the flat sides ensure they lay flat and won't bunch or slide.

Also known as lap links or repair links.

Restrict rope and chain movement with the narrow end, attach multiple connectors to the wide end, and then hammer these links closed.

Also known as C-links, the notch in these links lets you slip additional links on or remove links quickly.

Hang, pull, and secure loads. These rings are good for general non-lifting applications.

The flat side allows you to connect webbing and strapping, so they lay flat and resist bunching.

Screw the pin into position by hand for quick installation and removal. They're for use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.

A bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin makes these shackles more secure than screw-pin shackles.

A bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin makes these shackles more secure than screw-pin shackles.

The pins have flush ends to prevent snagging and accidental disengagement.

Meeting strict standards for lifting, yet flexible and lightweight, these shackles wrap around a variety of lifting points.

Pull the collar to release the shackle from its locked position.

Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access is limited. These shackes have a clevis end for making pivoting connections.

A lip on the shackle keeps the screw from falling out when loosened.

To prevent these shackles from snagging or accidentally coming undone, their pin doesn’t stick out from their body.

The bolt on these shackles is fastened with a nut and cotter pin, making them more secure than shackles with a screw pin. Also known as D-shackles, they have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.

A lip on the shackle keeps the pin from falling out when loosened.

The pin doesn’t stick out from their body, so these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.

Indentations in the shackle body hold the head of the pin in place once fastened.

Wrap these flexible shackles around a variety of anchor points.

A lip on the shackle keeps the pin from falling out when loosened.

For use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.

Adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.

Use these to adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.

The snap and split ring swing freely and pull from the center for easy alignment.

These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied to minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.

Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain and adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load.

Quickly connect and disconnect these carabiners—they don’t lock.

Hold rope more securely than nonlocking and slide-release carabiners. While these carabiners are not as secure as screw-locking carabiners, they are easier to open.

Designed for angular lifting, hoist rings resist stresses that would bend or break an eyebolt. They have a lifting ring that pivots 180° front to back to compensate for roll and sway when lifting heavy or unbalanced loads.

With three different thread sizes, these hoist rings are useful when you need to lift different types of equipment.

An indicator dot changes from red to black when these hoist rings are properly tightened, eliminating the need for a torque wrench.

The ball bearing on these hoist rings makes it easy to rotate your load even after it’s suspended.

Choose these hoist rings when you need to lift your load from the side.

Easily slip chain, rope, and fittings on and off these open-mouth hooks. Attach your chain to the eye end.

An unthreaded shank allows you to cut your own threads.

These swivel hooks have a latch that ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

Attach chain to the eye end of these hooks.

Also known as foundry hooks, use these on thick molds, castings, and objects that don't have attachment points.

For a more secure connection than standard hooks, these clevis hooks have a latch that locks closed when a load is applied.

These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.

Rotate these hooks for easy positioning before lifting your load. They have a latch that locks when a load is applied for a more secure connection than standard hooks.

These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.

Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these have a latch to ensure that rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

Screw these hooks into place with their threaded shank.

Garolite insulation prevents electrical current from passing to hoists and other lifting equipment, causing damage. Because they're electrical insulating, these hooks are often used to hold a workpiece while welding.

These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied. They have a latch to ensure rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.

The opening on these hooks fits large anchor points and allows chain to slide through when the hook is closed. They have a spring latch to ensure rope, chain, and fittings won't detach from the hook when the load slackens.

A spring-loaded pin ensures chain won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. Connect your chain to the clevis end.

Slide the clevis pin into these hooks to attach chain, no extra fittings needed.

For extra security, these have a latch that snaps back into place to secure your load.

The spring-loaded latches on these hooks snap back into place, securing your load.

Join, organize, and suspend objects with these S-hooks.

One side is closed and the other is open.

These clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and the U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.

Constructed with a saddle for both the long (live) end and the short (dead) end, these clamps apply equal pressure without crimping or crushing the wire rope, so orientation doesn't matter. Also known as fist grip wire rope clips.

Kits include clamps and thimbles to support a wire rope loop and prevent it from fraying. Clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end.

Use in noncritical applications, such as fencing, where the strength of a forged clamp is not required. Install clamps so the saddle is on the long (live) end and the U-bolt is on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.

Also known as standard-pattern thimbles, these provide better protection against fraying than light duty thimbles.

Also known as heavy-pattern thimbles, these can be used to reinforce the loop of a sling.

These compression sleeves are designed to meet lifting specifications.

Use these sleeves for non-lifting applications such as tethering, securing, and suspending.

Install these stud-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.

Install these eye-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.

Place the wire rope and sleeve through a hole in the assembly block and tighten into a vise to hold. Then attach the plug driver on the end of a plug to make hammering in the plug easier.

Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these hook-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.

Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these clevis-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.

Add a stud end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.

Add a clevis end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.

Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty stud-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.

Also known as open wedge sockets, these end fittings require only a torque wrench to install.

Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these stud-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.