Excellent holding power, even when removing screws. The hooked prongs on these inserts resist pullout by piercing and gripping softwood, such as particleboard. Hammer them into a drilled hole to install. The installed length includes the flange.

Add strong threads to material that’s too difficult to drill or too thin to grip a threaded insert. These nuts are ideal for brittle plastics or tough composites, such as acrylic or carbon fiber. They have large holes in the base so that adhesive or resin can flow through, spread out, and create an extra-strong hold. You can also mold them into the surface of your material. Made of 316 stainless steel, they resist corrosion from salt water and harsh chemicals.

The base of these nuts acts like a flange, distributing pressure evenly across the mounting surface. The larger the base, the more that pressure is spread out; the smaller the base, the tighter the space these nuts can fit into. Taller nuts engage more of a screw’s threads than shorter nuts. Shorter nuts fit in low-clearance areas.

With an extended barrel and a round flange, these nuts distribute force evenly to prevent pull-through. The barrel is twice as long as standard round weld nuts, so more threads connect with your bolt for a great grip. You can weld these nuts in two orientations: on top of a flat surface or with the barrel sticking through the hole.

Add corrosion-resistant threads to channels, corners, and other tight spaces without drilling a hole. Glue these nuts on to thin surfaces and materials too hard and brittle to drill, such as acrylic and carbon fiber. Large holes in the base allow adhesive and resin to flow and spread along the joint for a good bond. You can mold them into plastics or composites. Made of 316 stainless steel, these nuts are excellent at resisting chemicals and salt water.

The base of these nuts acts like a flange, distributing pressure evenly across the mounting surface. Larger bases spread the pressure over more surface for a strong bond, while smaller bases fit better in tight spaces.

Adhere or mold these nuts onto a surface without gunking up the threads—the closed end blocks out adhesive, resin, and debris. It also acts as a stop, preventing screws from penetrating your material. Use them to add strong threads to material that’s too difficult and brittle to drill, such as acrylic and carbon fiber. They’re also often used when the surface is too thin to grip a threaded insert. To create a secure bond, large holes in the base let adhesive and resin flow and spread along the joint. Made of 316 stainless steel, these nuts resist corrosion from salt water and harsh chemicals.

The base of these nuts acts like a flange, distributing pressure evenly across the mounting surface. The larger the base, the more that pressure is spread out; the smaller the base, the tighter the space these nuts can fit into. Taller nuts engage more of a screw’s threads than shorter nuts. Shorter nuts fit in low-clearance areas.

Fuse two threaded holes to metal with just one weld. These weld nuts have two short barrels with the same threads for installing screws side by side. They add the strength of two joints with a single nut. Their slim footprint fits in tight areas such as channels.

Add permanent threads to thin metal with our go-to weld nuts. Unlike press-fit and rivet nuts, these nuts fuse to the base metal, so they won’t twist and pull out. Three evenly spaced projections concentrate heat away from the threads to prevent them from deforming and create consistent welds. All have a collar pilot that guides the nut into the hole, holds it in place while welding, and protects the threads from weld spatter. You can also install them on thick pieces of metal.

With four symmetrical projections, these nuts create the strongest hold in our offering. Unlike rectangular weld nuts, each projection is equidistant from the threads, so welds wrap evenly for extra strength and twist resistance. Projections concentrate heat away from the threads to prevent them from deforming and create consistent welds. All nuts have a collar pilot that guides them into the hole, holds them in place while welding, and protects the threads from weld spatter.

Fit these nuts into channels, corners, and other tight spaces to add strong threads without drilling a hole. They’re ideal for material that’s too thin or too hard and brittle to drill, such as acrylic and carbon fiber. For a strong hold, large holes in the base let adhesive and resin flow through and spread out. You can also mold these nuts into plastics or composites. Thanks to a zinc plating, they resist rusting in wet environments.

The base of these nuts acts like a flange, distributing pressure evenly across the mounting surface. The larger the base, the more that pressure is spread out; the smaller the base, the tighter the space these nuts can fit into.

Create permanent, threaded 90° joints in sheet metal. Shaped like corner brackets, they’re often used to add mounting brackets in assemblies such as motors and heaters. These nuts have two projections that concentrate heat away from the threads to prevent them from deforming and create consistent welds.

With three projections and a short collar, weld these nuts under low-clearance areas without sacrificing strength. The projections concentrate heat away from the threads to prevent them from deforming and create consistent welds. To make welding easier, their collar pilot guides them into the hole and aligns them with the surface while also shielding the threads from weld spatter.

Help screws pass through perfectly every time. These nuts float inside a rectangular retainer that shifts and tilts to compensate for misalignment. A pilot tip locates the hole, and the retainer holds the nut in place during welding.

Prevent screws from backing out under heavy vibration. These nuts have distorted threads that grip screws tightly. Three evenly spaced projections concentrate heat away from the threads to prevent them from deforming and create consistent welds. These nuts also have a collar pilot that guides the nut into the hole, holds it in place while welding, and protects the threads from weld spatter.

Use Grade 2 or Class 6 screws to avoid stripping threads during installation. Distorted threads require high torque for fastening and unfastening, so you may need an impact wrench to remove screws.