Also known as barrier terminal strips, these blocks have dividers to separate live wires and keep your setup tidy. Mount them directly onto control panels, enclosures, and equipment.

A screw or stud connection creates a tight hold on the wire. You can insert stripped wire directly or attach a terminal to prevent damage from the fastener. Ring, spade, and hook terminals fit around the shank and hang on tightly, even in high-vibration setups. Pin terminals, blade terminals, and wire ferrules are easier to secure with the screw or stud. However, they don't stay put as well as other terminals when vibrated or pulled.

Covers—Snap onto the top of a terminal block to prevent accidental contact with a live wire. These covers include mounting clips that fit between the block and mounting screws.

Markers—Label your terminal block connections so you can identify them at a glance. These markers extend from underneath the terminal block.

These single-row terminal blocks connect the same number of circuits as double-row blocks, but in a narrower footprint. Also known as barrier terminal strips, they have dividers to separate live wires and keep your setup tidy. Mount them directly onto control panels, enclosures, and equipment.

You can screw down your stripped wire directly or attach a terminal to prevent damage from the screw. Ring, spade, and hook terminals fit around the screw and hang on tightly, even in high-vibration setups. Pin terminals, blade terminals, and wire ferrules are easier to slip under the screw head, but they don't stay put as well as other terminals when vibrated or pulled.

Note: Stick the included insulation strip to the bottom of the block before installing. The voltage listed applies only when the strip is attached.

These blocks come mounted in an enclosure that you can pop directly onto walls or equipment. They also reduce hassle because you can wire your circuits before installing the enclosure. Enclosures protect the terminal blocks from water, oil, and corrosion. Knockouts make it easy to run wire in and out of the enclosure. For enclosures without knockouts, you’ll need to drill your own holes for the wiring.

The screw-clamp terminals flatten your wire so it stays put when vibrated or pulled. For an even stronger and more conductive connection, crimp a terminal or wire ferrule onto the end of the wire. If you need to change wiring frequently without adjusting a screw, consider a terminal block with spring-clamp terminals.

These terminal blocks cut power when you pull the plug while protecting you from shocks. The terminals are recessed, so you can't accidentally touch them when installing or adjusting wire. You can wire the plug away from the block, then attach it to the socket you've already installed. Blocks can be cut into smaller sections. You'll need one plug and one socket for a complete terminal block.

You can screw down your stripped wire directly or attach a terminal to prevent damage from the screw. Ring, spade, and hook terminals fit around the screw and hang on tightly, even in high-vibration setups. Pin terminals, blade terminals, and wire ferrules are easier to fit into the block, but they don't stay put as well as other terminals when vibrated or pulled.

Pins on the bottom of these terminal blocks are spaced to match the layout of circuit boards. Solder them onto your board for a secure hold.

The screw-clamp terminals flatten your wire so it stays put when vibrated or pulled. For an even stronger and more conductive connection, crimp a terminal or wire ferrule onto the end of the wire.

Over-Barrier Jumpers—Fit these jumpers over terminal block dividers to leave free space on the side. They connect adjacent terminals so you can connect multiple components with a single wire.