These terminal blocks protect you from shocks and prevent short circuits. The terminals are recessed in the block, so you can't accidentally touch them when installing or adjusting your wire.

Markers—Label your terminal block connections so you can identify them at a glance. These markers extend from underneath the terminal block.

These ceramic terminal blocks keep their shape and strength at temperatures up to 1,200° F—over four times higher than standard blocks. Mount them to surfaces in ovens, kilns, and other heat-generating equipment.

These blocks come mounted in an enclosure that you can pop directly onto walls or equipment. They also reduce hassle because you can wire your circuits before installing the enclosure. Enclosures protect the terminal blocks from water, oil, and corrosion. Knockouts make it easy to run wire in and out of the enclosure. For enclosures without knockouts, you’ll need to drill your own holes for the wiring.

The screw-clamp terminals flatten your wire so it stays put when vibrated or pulled. For an even stronger and more conductive connection, crimp a terminal or wire ferrule onto the end of the wire. If you need to change wiring frequently without adjusting a screw, consider a terminal block with spring-clamp terminals.

Pop wire into these blocks by hand to connect components on opposite sides of a panel cutout. Lift the lever, insert your wire, then snap the lever down for a tight hold and reliable connection.

These single-row terminal blocks connect the same number of circuits as double-row blocks, but in a narrower footprint. Also known as barrier terminal strips, they have dividers to separate live wires and keep your setup tidy. Mount them directly onto control panels, enclosures, and equipment.

You can screw down your stripped wire directly or attach a terminal to prevent damage from the screw. Ring, spade, and hook terminals fit around the screw and hang on tightly, even in high-vibration setups. Pin terminals, blade terminals, and wire ferrules are easier to slip under the screw head, but they don't stay put as well as other terminals when vibrated or pulled.

Note: Stick the included insulation strip to the bottom of the block before installing. The voltage listed applies only when the strip is attached.

Snap wire into place with a clamp instead of fussing with a screw. Release the spring clamp with a screwdriver, insert the wire, and push the clamp back down for a secure hold. For an easier fit in the small gaps in the block, attach a ferrule, pin terminal, or blade terminal before installing.

DIN Rail Mounting Adapters—Install terminal blocks on DIN 3 rail with these mounting brackets. You can mount two-circuit terminal blocks with one adapter. For all other blocks, you'll need two.

Unlike other terminal blocks, these blocks connect to thermocouple wire without distorting or destroying the signal. The metal in each terminal matches the metal of a specific thermocouple wire type. The ends of the blocks are labeled positive or negative so you know which end of the wire to attach.

Also known as a barrier strip, this type of terminal block has dividers to separate live wires and keep your setup tidy. Mount the blocks directly onto control panels, enclosures, and equipment. The screw-clamp terminals flatten your wire so it stays put when vibrated or pulled.

These terminal blocks cut power when you pull the plug while protecting you from shocks. The terminals are recessed, so you can't accidentally touch them when installing or adjusting wire. You can wire the plug away from the block, then attach it to the socket you've already installed. Blocks can be cut into smaller sections. You'll need one plug and one socket for a complete terminal block.

You can screw down your stripped wire directly or attach a terminal to prevent damage from the screw. Ring, spade, and hook terminals fit around the screw and hang on tightly, even in high-vibration setups. Pin terminals, blade terminals, and wire ferrules are easier to fit into the block, but they don't stay put as well as other terminals when vibrated or pulled.

Mount these terminal blocks in a panel cutout to connect components on opposite sides. The screw-clamp terminals flatten your wire so it stays put when vibrated or pulled. For an even stronger and more conductive connection, crimp a terminal or wire ferrule onto the end of the wire.

Cut power with the pull of a plug when you need to swap out equipment or adjust your circuit. You can wire the plug away from the terminal block, then pop it into the socket you've already installed. Pins on the bottom of these blocks are spaced to match the layout of circuit boards. Solder them onto your board for a secure hold. You'll need one plug and one socket for a complete terminal block.

The screw-clamp terminals flatten your wire so it stays put when vibrated or pulled. For an even stronger and more conductive connection, crimp a terminal or wire ferrule onto the end of the wire.

A clear plastic cover lets you inspect your terminal block while keeping out dirt and liquids. These blocks come mounted in an enclosure that you can pop directly onto walls or equipment. They also reduce hassle because you can wire your circuits before installing the enclosure. Enclosures protect the terminal blocks from water, oil, and corrosion. Knockouts make it easy to run wire in and out of the enclosure. For enclosures without knockouts, you’ll need to drill your own holes for the wiring.

The screw-clamp terminals flatten your wire so it stays put when vibrated or pulled. For an even stronger and more conductive connection, crimp a terminal or wire ferrule onto the end of the wire. If you need to change wiring frequently without adjusting a screw, consider a quick-connect terminal block with spring-clamp terminals.

Pins on the bottom of these terminal blocks are spaced to match the layout of circuit boards. Solder them onto your board for a secure hold.

The screw-clamp terminals flatten your wire so it stays put when vibrated or pulled. For an even stronger and more conductive connection, crimp a terminal or wire ferrule onto the end of the wire.

Over-Barrier Jumpers—Fit these jumpers over terminal block dividers to leave free space on the side. They connect adjacent terminals so you can connect multiple components with a single wire.

Streamline wiring on small or crowded circuit boards. These terminal blocks connect the same number of circuits as larger blocks in about half the space. Pins on the bottom are spaced to match the layout of circuit boards. Solder them onto your board for a secure hold.

The screw-clamp terminals flatten your wire so it stays put when vibrated or pulled. For an even stronger and more conductive connection, crimp a terminal or wire ferrule onto the end of the wire.

These terminal blocks fit inside connection heads for thermocouples and RTD. Make sure the block has enough circuits for your probe, and use a wire that matches your probe type. You can insert stripped wire directly or attach a terminal to prevent damage from the fastener.