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Cut threads into most metal and plastic.
Sized to cut oversized threads, these tools are often used to tap holes where the threads will shrink due to heat treatment or plating.
Use the extra-long shank to thread deep and hard-to-reach holes.
Tap threads for left-hand threaded fasteners.
Often used for thread repair and occasional hand tapping, these carbon steel taps can thread holes in most metal and plastic, but they have a shorter tool life than standard taps.
Use these taps on hard and abrasive material, such as heat-treated metal, nickel, and fiberglass.
Insert these taps directly into drills, power screwdrivers, and other tools that accept a 1/4" hex shank.
With a drill bit point to drive into the workpiece, these taps can drill and tap holes in a single step. A 1/4" hex shank connects them directly to tools such as drills and power screwdrivers.
Keep chips clear while tapping. Also known as gun taps, these have spiral-point flutes that push chips ahead of the tap and out of through holes.
Create oversized threads while keeping chips clear. These taps are sized for use in holes where the threads will shrink due to heat treatment or plating.
Clear chips while tapping deep and hard-to-reach holes. These taps have an extra-long shank for extended reach.
These taps cut left-hand threads while keeping chips clear.
The spiral flute design pulls chips back toward the tap, so chips won't accumulate in closed-end holes.
Drill holes and cut threads without switching tools.
With a taper chamfer and bottoming chamfer at opposite ends, these taps start threads easily and are good for threading close to the bottom of closed-end holes.
Also known as cold-forming and fluteless taps, these press threads into material without cutting it, so no chips are created.
These taps are made of cobalt steel for higher strength and wear resistance than standard taps. Their flutes are designed to keep chips clear, so they don't need to be reversed to prevent buildup.
Tap threads into hardened steel and iron. These cobalt steel taps have straight flutes for high durability.
Coated with chromium carbide or titanium carbonitride (TiCN), these cobalt steel taps cut smoothly through soft material to produce accurate threads.
To tap nickel and other hard material, these cobalt steel taps have high cutting strength. Their flutes are designed to keep chips clear, so they don't need to be reversed to prevent buildup.
A high helix angle provides the cutting strength needed to tap threads in titanium. These cobalt steel taps have an open flute design that keeps chips clear, so they don't need to be reversed to prevent buildup.
Use these carbon steel taps for thread repair and occasional tapping of pipe and conduit. They can tap threads into most metal and plastic, but they have a shorter tool life than standard taps.
Create threads sized for pipe and conduit.
Tap left-hand threads for pipe and conduit.
With an extra-long shank, these taps have extended reach for tapping deep and hard-to-reach areas in pipe and conduit.
Also known as short-projection taps, these have fewer tapered threads at the tip than standard pipe taps, so you don't have to drive them as deep to produce full threads.
With a taper chamfer on one threading end and a bottoming chamfer on the other, these pipe and conduit taps can start threads easily, and they are able to thread close to the bottom of closed-end holes.
Drill and thread holes for pipe and conduit without switching tools.
Also known as interrupted-thread taps, these have extra space between the cutting threads, so large chips fall without packing and high amounts of lubricant can flow between the tap and the workpiece.
The cutting teeth are shaped to cut smooth threads in soft pipe and conduit material.
Use these taps on hardened steel pipe and conduit.
The spiral flutes on these pipe and conduit taps keep chips clear by drawing them back out of the hole, so there's no need to reverse the tap while cutting threads.
Cut threads in PG thread sizes commonly used for European conduit.
Tap the unique size needed for garden hose thread (GHT) connections.
Form general purpose Acme threads.
Produce metric threads that meet Japanese Industrial Standards.
Add threads to holes in preparation for installing helical inserts.
Use these high-speed steel taps to cut and repair threads in the sizes needed to accept spark plugs.
The coil-style threads produced by these taps are shallower and more widely spaced than standard thread sizes. Use them for quick threading action with compatible fasteners.
Also known as National Gas Outlet (NGO) taps, these tap threads in sizes used for compressed gas cylinders and valves.
Use with a tap to thread holes by hand. These wrenches are more compact than straight-handle tap wrenches, so they can be used to tap in tighter spaces.
Connect a tap to these wrenches for occasional or light-duty hand tapping. All have a T-handle design, so they're more compact than straight-handle tap wrenches but provide less leverage.
With a T-handle design, these wrenches are more compact than straight-handle tap wrenches but provide less leverage.
Use with a tap to thread holes by hand. These tools have long handles to provide more leverage than T-handle wrenches, but they require more space for tapping.
For occasional or light-duty hand tapping, connect a tap to these wrenches. They have long handles to provide more leverage than T-handle wrenches, but they require more space for tapping.
Powered by compressed air, these tap wrenches thread holes faster and with less effort than manual tap wrenches.
Also known as hand tappers, these wrenches mount to a flat surface for stability and guide the tap straight into the hole for accurate threading.
Sets include multiple holders for use with different tap sizes. These holders work like sockets to connect taps to ratchet wrenches.
These holders work like sockets to connect taps to ratchet wrenches.
Keep taps and drill bits organized. All holes are labeled with sizes. Taps and drill bits are not included.
These steel cases close for easy transport and are labeled with sizes for organizing tools. Taps and drill bits are not included.
Drawers and labeled compartments provide space for keeping tools organized. Taps and drill bits are not included.
Connect these extensions to your tap for greater access to hard-to-reach areas. Sets include nine extensions to fit different tap sizes.
Extend the length of your tap to access hard-to-reach areas.
Restore bolt, hole, pipe, and conduit threading with this set of four files.
One file restores a range of thread sizes in most hole diameters.
Repair rusted and damaged threads in pipe and conduit. These files are for use in most hole diameters.
Restore six internal thread sizes with one tool.
These tools have adjustable blades to repair any inch or metric thread size. Use them on threaded holes with an ID from 5/16" to 1-1/4" or 8 mm to 32 mm.
With replaceable dies, these long-lasting tools can repair both screw threads and pipe and conduit threads. Use them for holes with an ID from 3/4" to 6".
Attach these tools to a socket wrench to restore rusted and damaged spark plug threads in two common sizes.
For use with a wide range of threaded hole diameters, these sets include multiple retrievers. Insert the retriever into a tapped hole and pull out to remove chips.
Insert the retriever into a tapped hole and pull out to remove chips.
After using a large-diameter bit to drill a starter hole in a broken tap, drill out the tap with one of these tools. Sets include multiple removers for use with different tap sizes and two picks for removing the remains.
To extract taps of different sizes, these sets include multiple extractors. Use them with a tap wrench to remove taps with straight flutes from the workpiece without damaging the surrounding threads.
Fingers on the extractor grip the flutes on a broken tap. Use with a tap wrench to remove taps with straight flutes from the workpiece without damaging the surrounding threads.
After using a large-diameter bit to drill a starter hole in a broken tap, drill out the tap with one of these tools.
Use the fingers on these extractors to grip the flutes of a broken pipe thread tap. They connect to a tap wrench to remove taps with straight flutes from the workpiece without damaging the surrounding threads.
These taps are for use on most metal and plastic.
For start-to-finish tapping of left-hand threads, these sets include one taper-, one plug-, and one bottoming-chamfer tap.
Sets include multiple tap sizes for threading different hole diameters.
Multiple tap sizes allow tapping a range of hole diameters. Connect these taps directly to drills, power screwdrivers, and other tools that accept a 1/4" hex shank.
Create pipe and conduit threads in a range of hole diameters.
Drill and tap a variety of hole sizes. These taps and drill bits are for use on metal and plastic.
All taps and drill bits have a hex shank for direct connection to tools such as drills and power screwdrivers.
Also known as gun taps, the taps in these sets have spiral-point flutes that push chips ahead of the tap and out of through holes.
Drill and tap holes in a range of diameters. With a drill bit point to drive into the workpiece, these tools can drill and tap holes in a single step. Connect them directly to drills, power screwdrivers, and other tools that accept a 1/4" hex shank.
Use a single set for many sizes of internal and external threads. All sets include tap and die wrenches.
Cut and repair threads and drill holes in many different sizes. Tap and die wrenches are included.
Repair screw threads in a wide range of sizes.
Switch from internal to external threading with interchangeable tap and die adapters. Use them with the included ratcheting wrench.
Repair rusted or damaged external threads in a variety of sizes.
Renew external threads in a wide range of sizes. The dies in these sets have a narrower width than standard dies, making them a good choice for thread repair in tight spots.
Clamp these dies around your workpiece, so you can start thread repair anywhere along the length of a bolt, stud, or rod.
Cut several sizes of external screw threads.
Use these dies to create external threads on bolts, studs, and rods.
Cut left-hand external threads on bolts, studs, and rods.
Connect to a compatible ratchet or electric threader to cut external pipe and conduit threads.
Each set includes a ratchet with handle, die heads, and dies. Use them to cut NPT threads in steel pipe and conduit by hand.
Grip compatible die heads to cut external pipe and conduit threads by hand.
Add or replace parts such as drive adapters, die sets, and drive bars for the Ridgid Large Size Pipe and Conduit Threader Adapter.
Use with Ridgid Electric Pipe and Conduit Threaders and Ridgid Hand-Held Electric Pipe and Conduit Threaders to thread pipe and conduit sizes of 2-1/2, 3, 3-1/2, and 4.
Thread, cut, and ream pipe and conduit with these machines.
These machines thread faster than the Ridgid 300 and include a self-lubricating die head and automatic chuck.
Carry this pipe and conduit threader to your work site.
Add or replace parts such as die sets, power drives, and die head adapters on Ridgid Pipe and Conduit Threaders.
The teeth on these high-speed steel dies are designed to cut through stainless steel.
Use these dies with Ridgid pipe and conduit threader die heads on Ridgid pipe and conduit threaders.
Cut threads in PVC with the specially designed teeth on these high-speed steel dies.
Create external pipe and conduit threads.
Restore rusted and damaged screw threads. These dies are hex shaped for use with conventional wrenches.
A smaller width than standard hex dies lets you repair threads in tight spaces.
Clamp these dies around your workpiece, so you can start thread repair anywhere along the length of a bolt, stud, or rod. They're hex shaped for use with conventional wrenches.
Repair rusted and damaged left-hand screw threads. These dies are hex shaped for use with conventional wrenches.
With a smaller width than regular hex dies, these dies are suitable for repairing rusted and damaged left-hand threads in tight spaces.
Renew rusted and damaged pipe and conduit threads.
Repair the broad, square threads on Acme threaded studs and rods. These dies are for general purpose Acme threads with a Class 2G thread fit.
Clean and restore the fine threads on power transmission shafts that are used with bearing locknuts. Dies are sized according to the American Bearing Manufacturer's Association (ABMA).
Clamp onto threaded rod, pipe, and conduit from the side to repair threads in tight spaces and where threaded ends are not exposed.
Slide over the end of threaded rod, pipe, and conduit to the area where threads are damaged, then tighten and rotate to repair threads.
Multiple files and handles are included in these sets.
One file restores pipe and conduit threads in many sizes.
Repair rusted and damaged threads on any diameter bolt, stud, or rod.
Use these wrenches to turn hex-shaped dies by hand. They're also known as die stocks.
Also known as die stocks, these wrenches grip round dies so you can turn them by hand.
Convert round dies to hex dies for use with a conventional wrench.
Inserts come with a through-hole tap and installation tool.
Assortments include various sizes of helical inserts and a tap, a drill bit, and an installation tool for each thread size.
These kits have short-, normal-, and long-reach inserts, an installation tool, and a tap.
Without a prong to break off and retrieve, these inserts are often used where debris could cause damage.
Made of nickel alloy, these inserts are more resistant to acids and salt water than stainless steel inserts.
A distorted thread grips the screw to resist loosening.
Kits include helical inserts, a tap, and an installation tool.
Eliminating the need for primer, these inserts are coated to resist corrosion when installed in different materials.
These inserts have a high strength-to-weight ratio and resist acids and salt water better than nickel alloy and stainless steel inserts.
Made of Nitronic 60 stainless steel, these inserts prevent the screw from binding or sticking without any coating or lubricant that could contaminate particle-free environments.
A dry film keeps the screw from sticking or binding in these inserts during installation.
A black-phosphate finish provides mild corrosion resistance.
A closed-end tap, drill bit, and installation bit are included with these inserts.
These assortments include various sizes of thread-locking inserts.
These inserts are the most corrosion-resistant thread-locking inserts we offer.
Adhesive on both the internal and external threads keeps these inserts in place and holds screws tight.
Made of 18-8 stainless steel, these inserts have better corrosion resistance than black-phosphate steel.
Made of 18-8 stainless steel, these inserts have good corrosion resistance.
The strongest key-locking inserts we offer, these inserts are made to stringent military specifications.
These inserts come with an installation tool. Drive the keys into the surrounding material for a more secure hold than thread-locking inserts.
These inserts are made to stringent military specifications.
Forming the strongest hold of any of our threaded inserts, these inserts have a distorted internal thread to lock screws into place and keys that drive into surrounding material to prevent slipping and rotating.
The knurled body holds these inserts in place in aluminum and other soft metals. Use an arbor press to install them in untapped holes.
These inserts cut their own threads in soft metals such as aluminum, so there's no need to tap the hole. Also known as Tap-Lok inserts.
Assortments include various sizes of inserts, a soldering iron, a ceramic insulation tube, and installation tips.
The tapered shape makes it easier to guide these inserts into a hole during installation. Use a drill bit to create a straight hole, then taper the top half.
With the male threaded end on these inserts, mount components directly to plastic parts.
Install these inserts into plastic parts to create a secure base for fasteners.
Also known as Trisert inserts, these cut threads into plastic and have better holding power than press-fit inserts.
Push down on the inside of these inserts with an installation tool and they expand to hold firm in surrounding material.
The flange keeps these inserts from pulling through a hole. Press them in from the underside of material, and install a screw from the top of material.
Use these inserts to install fine-thread screws in existing holes.
Made from brass, these inserts are electrically conductive, nonmagnetic, and have good corrosion resistance.
These 18-8 stainless steel inserts have better corrosion resistance than aluminum inserts and may be mildly magnetic.
These aluminum inserts are 70% lighter than brass inserts, electrically conductive, and nonmagnetic. They have good corrosion resistance, which is comparable to brass but not as good as stainless steel.
Made from brass, these inserts are nonmagnetic, corrosion resistant, and electrically conductive.
70% lighter than stainless steel, these aluminum inserts are mildly corrosion resistant and nonmagnetic.
These 18-8 stainless steel inserts have better corrosion resistance than brass inserts and may be mildly magnetic.
The barbed sides keep these securely in place even before a screw is installed.
A closed end seals out elements and protects the threads on these inserts from debris.
Knurls hold these inserts in hardwoods such as oak, maple, and walnut to prevent twisting.
Mount these inserts flush or below the material's surface.
An open end allows long screws and bolts to pass through the insert.
Assortments include various sizes of tapping inserts for softwood.
Made from brass, these inserts are nonmagnetic, mildly corrosion resistant, and electrically conductive.
Assortments include various sizes of tapping inserts for hardwood.
The flange keeps these inserts from being pulled through a hole and provides a load bearing surface.
Large threads cut into softwood such as particleboard for a strong hold.
These 18-8 stainless steel inserts have excellent resistance to chemicals and may be mildly magnetic.
Steel inserts have high strength for durability.
A wide flange distributes the load over a large area. Hammer these inserts into a drilled hole.
Press these inserts into a drilled hole and the flexible metal teeth anchor them in the material. Use them with carbon fiber, fiberglass, and garolite.
Ridges on the barrel of these inserts make them less likely to split hardwood than inserts with prongs. They're often used in wood that has been cut across the growth rings.
Use where vibration is a concern—these tee nut inserts have distorted threads that lock screws in place.
Fewer prongs than other tee nut inserts reduce the risk of splitting hardwood—these inserts have three short prongs.
The most corrosion resistant tee nut inserts we offer, these inserts stand up to chemicals and salt water.
Hooked prongs give these inserts excellent holding power even when removing screws.
Six prongs around the barrel of these inserts provide a strong hold and prevent them from loosening and twisting.
These 18-8 stainless steel tee nut inserts have better corrosion resistance than zinc-plated steel tee nut inserts.
These nylon flange locknuts form threads as they're tightened to resist vibration.
Combine the utility of a thread-cutting die with a flange nut. These nuts repair damaged threads and cut through rust, residue, and weld spatter as you thread them while the flange distributes pressure on the material surface, eliminating the need for a separate washer.
Install one of these holders into a straight machine spindle to drive a round die.
Attach taps to auto-reversing tap holders for Jacobs taper shanks.
Use to attach taps to Procunier auto-reversing tap holders.
Also known as tap chucks, these fit into machines that have a Morse taper spindle.
Insert a holder into the Morse taper tailstock on a lathe to drive a round die.
Solid carbide provides more rigidity than carbide-tipped tools.
Cut threads in plastic and most metal with these high-speed steel tools.
Machine plastic and most metal with these high-speed steel tools.
Constructed of a carbide tip brazed onto a ground steel shank, these tools are more wear resistant than high-speed steel tools.
When cutting threads in nonferrous and nonmetallic materials, such as aluminum, copper, fiberglass, and plastic, diamond tips provide superior cutting performance.
The carbide tip brazed onto the ground steel shanks of these tools is more wear resistant than high-speed steel.
A carbide tip brazed onto a ground steel shank makes these tools less brittle than solid carbide tools.
Reduce tooling setup time—install the holder once and alternate between applications by switching out the bit.
These tools come with one high-speed steel insert for use on steel and stainless steel and one high-speed steel insert for use on softer materials, such as aluminum and brass. When one point of an insert dulls, rotate it to use a sharp point.
These sets have five indexable turning tools with carbide inserts and a wood storage stand. When one edge of a tool's insert dulls, rotate it to use a sharp edge.
A carbide insert comes installed on these tools.
Pair these holders with a threading insert or a grooving insert to make cuts on the inside of a hollow workpiece.
Install these inserts into a compatible holder to cut external or internal threads on a workpiece.
Pair these holders with a threading insert or a grooving insert to make cuts on the outside of a workpiece.
Use these installation bits with power drills and drill presses as an alternative to a screwdriver for fast installation.
These installation bits can be used with power drills and drill presses as an alternative to a hex driver for fast installation.
Strike these tools with a hammer or mallet to press threaded inserts into composites.
Place the tip of these tools into an insert and strike them with a hammer to drive the keys into the material. They’re compatible with Keensert® inserts.
Compatible with Tap-Lok inserts.
Place the tip of these tools into an insert and strike a light blow to the tool’s head. Then turn the tools counterclockwise with pressure to extract the insert.
Screw an insert onto these tools and drive them a quarter to half-turn below the material's surface. They're compatible with helical inserts that have a prong.
Place the tip of these tools into installed inserts and push down to trigger the spring-loaded punch to break off the prong.
Thread these tools into an insert and turn counterclockwise to extract.
Install Keensert®-style inserts.
Attach these installation tips to a soldering iron. The tips transfer heat from the soldering iron to the insert, softening the surrounding plastic. When the plastic cools, it solidifies around the insert to keep it secure.
Screw an insert onto these tools and drive them a quarter to half-turn below the material’s surface.
Compatible with push-to-expand and Dodge inserts, these tools push down a plate inside the insert so the insert expands and stays secure in the surrounding material.
Extract heat-set inserts by attaching these tips to a soldering iron. The tips transfer heat from the soldering iron to the insert, softening the surrounding plastic to loosen the insert so it can be removed.
Place these plastic pads under the material you're punching to protect work surfaces and keep punch edges sharp.
Pads are marked with inch and centimeter grid lines to guide your cut.
Pads heal themselves to seal surface nicks and cuts.
These dies have a plate on top of the upper die and a 1/2"-13 tool adapter that connects the die and ram for quick setup.
Use in assembly operations and light stamping work.
Hot-rolled steel press plates and hardened steel bushings give these die sets the strength to handle punching and metal forming applications.