Cut a variety of thread sizes into aluminum and other soft metal—no taps required. These inserts cut their own threads and lock into material, much like Tap-Lok inserts, so they won’t budge when you install or remove a screw. Thread the insert onto a bolt with two nuts before driving it into a drilled hole with a wrench. For repeated installation, use an installation tool with a ratchet wrench or insert the installation tool into a drill press. Since these inserts have a zinc plating, they resist corrosion in wet environments.

Assortments with thick-wall inserts are used to add threads to large holes. They’re often used to replace threads that have been drilled out.

The tapered shape makes it easier to guide these inserts into a hole during installation. Use a drill bit to create a straight hole, then taper the top half. Heat inserts with a soldering tip so that they melt the plastic when installed. As the plastic cools, it solidifies around the knurls and ridges on the insert for excellent resistance to both torque and pull-out.

Made with lead, brass inserts are stronger than aluminum and other brass alloys but not as strong as 18-8 stainless steel inserts. They have good corrosion resistance.

Aluminum inserts are one-third the weight of brass and stainless steel inserts, have good corrosion resistance in wet environments, and are lead-free. Since they’re lead-free, they can be safely recycled.

18-8 stainless steel inserts are stronger than brass and aluminum inserts, have excellent corrosion resistance, and are lead-free. Since they’re lead-free, they can be safely recycled.

Inserts that meet ASTM standards comply with specifications for material quality.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Assortments include various sizes of tapered inserts, a soldering iron, a ceramic insulation tube, and installation tips. The tapered shape makes it easy to guide these inserts into a hole during installation. Use a drill bit to create a straight hole, then taper the top half. Heat inserts with the soldering iron so that they melt the plastic when installed. As the plastic cools, it solidifies around the knurls and ridges on the insert for excellent resistance to both torque and pull-out. Made from brass, they’re corrosion resistant, electrically conductive, and nonmagnetic.

Install these inserts into plastic parts to create a secure base for fasteners. Also known as Chevron and headed inserts, they are often used to strengthen mounting holes on brittle plastics, such as on 3D printed parts. Unlike plastic threads, which wear down with repeated use, these threads hold their shape over a long life. Press inserts into straight holes that have been drilled, printed, or molded into plastic parts, then heat them with a soldering tip to melt the surrounding plastic. As the plastic cools, it fuses to the sharp, diagonal ridges around the inserts, which withstand torque and prevent the inserts from being pulled out. The interior is fully threaded, so you can access the threads from both sides of a through-hole.

Flanged inserts have a wider end than standard inserts, which gives them a larger load-bearing surface and makes them harder to pull out. The flange also gives you a larger contact area for soldering. When threading into the flanged side, these inserts prevent over-tightening, which can cause brittle plastic to crack.

Made with lead, brass inserts are stronger than aluminum and other brass alloys but not as strong as 18-8 stainless steel inserts. They have good corrosion resistance.

18-8 stainless steel inserts are stronger than brass and aluminum inserts, have excellent corrosion resistance, and are lead-free. Since they’re lead-free, they can be safely recycled.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Quicker to install than standard heat-set inserts, these inserts go in either way—no need to check which end is correct. Use them to add strong and reusable threads to plastic. Since the threads are metal, they hold their shape better than plastic threads cut directly into the material. You’ll often find them securing screws in mounting holes on brittle plastic parts, such as 3D printed parts. Their interior is fully threaded, so you can thread a screw from either side of a through hole.

Press these inserts into straight holes that have been drilled, printed, or molded. Use a soldering iron to heat and melt the surrounding plastic, fusing it to the insert’s sharp ridges. Once the plastic cools, the ridges are locked in to withstand torque and prevent the insert from being pulled out.

Brass inserts are stronger than aluminum inserts but not as strong as 18-8 stainless steel inserts. They have good corrosion resistance.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Add permanent metric threads to sheet metal, like weld nuts, but without the setup and mess. A zinc plating on these steel press-fit nuts provides corrosion resistance in wet environments. Also known as clinch-style captive nuts, press them into a drilled or punched hole with an arbor press or similar pressure tool. The pressure forms your sheet metal into the knurls of the nut, making the nut inseparable from the sheet. Installation requires access to both sides of the panel.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Made from 18-8 stainless steel, these metric nuts withstand contact with water and chemicals better than zinc-plated steel nuts. They add permanent threads to sheet metal like weld nuts but without the setup and mess. Also known as clinch-style captive nuts, press them into a drilled or punched hole with an arbor press or similar pressure tool. The pressure forms your sheet metal into the knurls of the nut, making the nut inseparable from the sheet. Installation requires access to both sides of the panel.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

The strongest and hardest press-fit nuts we offer. In addition to their sturdiness, these A286 stainless steel nuts withstand harsh chemicals. They add permanent threads to sheet metal, like weld nuts but without the setup and mess. Unlike most press-fit nuts, they’re even hard enough to install in stainless steel panels. Also known as clinch-style captive nuts, press them into a drilled or punched hole with an arbor press or similar pressure tool. The pressure forms your sheet metal into the knurls of the nut, making the nut inseparable from the sheet. Installation requires access to both sides of the panel.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Add lightweight, corrosion-resistant threads to sheet metal. These aluminum press-fit nuts are one-third the weight of steel press-fit nuts and better withstand wet environments. However, they’re only about half as strong. Use press-fit nuts to add permanent threads to thin metal surfaces, like weld nuts, but without the setup and mess. Also known as clinch-style captive nuts, press them into a drilled or punched hole with an arbor press or similar pressure tool. The pressure forms your sheet metal into the knurls of the nut, making the nut inseparable from the sheet. Installation requires access to both sides of the panel.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

With a slim base and a short barrel, these weld nuts fit in tight spaces, such as channels, and in low-clearance areas. Weld nuts stand up to high torque and pull force better than rivet and press-fit nuts, making them the strongest way to add permanent threads to sheet metal. You can also install them onto thick pieces of metal. Made of plain steel, these nuts weld to flat, uncoated steel surfaces with minimal preparation.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.