Use these tools to install press-fit nuts by hand. They include one hand tool, seven hole punches and dies, five fastener anvils, one flat punch, one punch adapter bushing, and one edge-depth guide.

To remove installed helical inserts, place the tip of these tools into the insert and lightly strike the tool’s head. Then, turn the tool counterclockwise with pressure to extract the insert.

Cleanly snap prongs off installed helical inserts with just one hand. Because they work faster than standard prong break-off tools, these are a good choice when you have many prongs to remove. Press your tool into an insert to trigger the spring-loaded punch and snap off the prong.

Press these inserts into a drilled hole, then install a screw to expand them. Inserts won't lose their strength as you remove and reinsert screws during inspection or repair. The sharp diamond knurls dig into the surrounding material for a stronger hold than other press-in inserts for plastic. Install inserts with an arbor press or similar pressure tool.

Mold the strongest metal threads into plastic parts. Designed for injection molding, these inserts become inseparable from your part. They form a stronger bond than heat-set and press-fit inserts and are better for frequent use than threads cut directly into material. Unlike heat-set inserts, they can be used in a wide variety of plastics, including thermoset plastics that can’t be reformed.

To install, position these inserts in your mold cavity with a core pin (not included).

Add threads to untapped holes in aluminum and other soft metal. Since these inserts are tapered, they align with the hole as you press them in. The knurls grip the material to keep inserts from twisting once installed. Inserts can also be used to add threads to tubing. Install them with an arbor press or similar pressure tool.

Add strong, reusable metal threads to plastic. These inserts have external threads that bite into your material to resist pull-out better than press-in inserts. They're a more durable solution than threads cut directly into plastic. Inserts also have flutes that guide loose chips up and out of the way to keep threads clean. To install inserts with a wrench, thread an insert and two hex nuts onto a bolt. Then, grip and turn the top nut to drive into a drilled hole. You can save time by using an installation tool with a ratchet wrench or drill press. Also known as Trisert inserts.

The hex-shaped body resists loosening and twisting in round holes for a more secure hold than other press-in inserts for plastic. Unlike screw-to-expand inserts, these inserts stay put even before you screw in a fastener. However, they may lose strength if screws are repeatedly removed and reinserted. Install inserts with an arbor press or similar pressure tool.

No need to tap the hole, these inserts cut their own threads into soft metal, such as aluminum. The teeth dig into the material to keep them secure when installing and removing screws. To install inserts with a wrench, thread an insert and two hex nuts onto a bolt. Then, grip and turn the top nut to drive into a drilled hole. If you need to add a lot of threaded connections quickly, use an installation tool with a ratchet wrench or drill press. These inserts are comparable to Tap-Lok inserts.

The closed end prevents molten plastic from seeping in and clogging the threads. Designed for injection molding, these inserts become inseparable from your part. They form a stronger bond than heat-set and press-fit inserts and last longer than threads cut directly into material. Unlike heat-set inserts, these work in a wide variety of plastics, including thermoset plastics that can’t be reformed.

To install, position these inserts in your mold cavity with a core pin (not included).

Extract heat-set inserts by attaching these tips to a soldering iron. The tips transfer heat from the soldering iron to the insert, softening the surrounding plastic to loosen the insert so it can be removed.

Mount components directly to plastic parts. The male threaded rod on these inserts creates an attachment point. Heat them on a hot plate and press the knurled end into a straight hole. The heat melts the surrounding plastic and as it cools, it hardens around the knurls.

Weld permanent threads in channels and other tight spaces without adding a barrel bump that gets in the way. These nuts have a short barrel that tucks under low surfaces and a slim footprint that fits between narrow channel walls.

Add permanent threads on corners and near edges. With a slim base and a short, offset barrel, these weld nuts fit in tight spaces such as channels and low-clearance areas.

Install helical inserts and break off prongs with one tool and a hammer strike. These tools have a slot that grips your insert’s prong for turning both left- and right-hand threads. Slide an insert onto these tools and drive them a quarter-turn to half-turn below the material’s surface. Then, strike the end of the tool with a hammer to break off the prong. These tools work with pronged helical inserts.

Attach these installation tips to a soldering iron. The tips transfer heat from the soldering iron to the insert, softening the surrounding plastic. When the plastic cools, it solidifies around the knurls and ridges on the insert to keep it secure and resistant to torque.

Break the prong off of installed helical inserts. Place these tools inside the insert and hit the back with a hammer. Once removed, thread in your fastener.