With four symmetrical projections, these nuts create the strongest hold in our offering. Unlike rectangular weld nuts, each projection is equidistant from the threads, so welds wrap evenly for extra strength and twist resistance. Projections concentrate heat away from the threads to prevent them from deforming and create consistent welds. All nuts have a collar pilot that guides them into the hole, holds them in place while welding, and protects the threads from weld spatter.

Weld permanent threads in channels and other tight spaces without adding a barrel bump that gets in the way. These nuts have a short barrel that tucks under low surfaces and a slim footprint that fits between narrow channel walls.

These nuts add permanent threads in narrow spaces such as channels. With a slim footprint, they fit where round weld nuts can’t. Plus, their barrel is twice as long as low-profile barrels, so more threads connect with your bolt for a secure hold. You can weld these nuts in two orientations: on top of a flat surface or with the barrel sticking through a hole.

With an extended barrel and a round flange, these nuts distribute force evenly to prevent pull-through. The barrel is twice as long as standard round weld nuts, so more threads connect with your bolt for a great grip. You can weld these nuts in two orientations: on top of a flat surface or with the barrel sticking through the hole.

Prevent screws from backing out under heavy vibration. These nuts have distorted threads that grip screws tightly. Three evenly spaced projections concentrate heat away from the threads to prevent them from deforming and create consistent welds. These nuts also have a collar pilot that guides the nut into the hole, holds it in place while welding, and protects the threads from weld spatter.

Use Grade 2 or Class 6 screws to avoid stripping threads during installation. Distorted threads require high torque for fastening and unfastening, so you may need an impact wrench to remove screws.

Add permanent threads on corners and near edges. With a slim base and a short, offset barrel, these weld nuts fit in tight spaces such as channels and low-clearance areas.

With three projections and a short collar, weld these nuts under low-clearance areas without sacrificing strength. The projections concentrate heat away from the threads to prevent them from deforming and create consistent welds. To make welding easier, their collar pilot guides them into the hole and aligns them with the surface while also shielding the threads from weld spatter.

Help screws pass through perfectly every time. These nuts float inside a rectangular retainer that shifts and tilts to compensate for misalignment. A pilot tip locates the hole, and the retainer holds the nut in place during welding.

Create permanent, threaded 90° joints in sheet metal. Shaped like corner brackets, they’re often used to add mounting brackets in assemblies such as motors and heaters. These nuts have two projections that concentrate heat away from the threads to prevent them from deforming and create consistent welds.

Add strong threads to material that’s too difficult to drill or too thin to grip a threaded insert. These nuts are ideal for brittle plastics or tough composites, such as acrylic or carbon fiber. They have large holes in the base so that adhesive or resin can flow through, spread out, and create an extra-strong hold. You can also mold them into the surface of your material. Made of 316 stainless steel, they resist corrosion from salt water and harsh chemicals.

The base of these nuts acts like a flange, distributing pressure evenly across the mounting surface. The larger the base, the more that pressure is spread out; the smaller the base, the tighter the space these nuts can fit into. Taller nuts engage more of a screw’s threads than shorter nuts. Shorter nuts fit in low-clearance areas.

Adhere or mold these nuts onto a surface without gunking up the threads—the closed end blocks out adhesive, resin, and debris. It also acts as a stop, preventing screws from penetrating your material. Use them to add strong threads to material that’s too difficult and brittle to drill, such as acrylic and carbon fiber. They’re also often used when the surface is too thin to grip a threaded insert. To create a secure bond, large holes in the base let adhesive and resin flow and spread along the joint. Made of 316 stainless steel, these nuts resist corrosion from salt water and harsh chemicals.

The base of these nuts acts like a flange, distributing pressure evenly across the mounting surface. The larger the base, the more that pressure is spread out; the smaller the base, the tighter the space these nuts can fit into. Taller nuts engage more of a screw’s threads than shorter nuts. Shorter nuts fit in low-clearance areas.

Add corrosion-resistant threads to channels, corners, and other tight spaces without drilling a hole. Glue these nuts on to thin surfaces and materials too hard and brittle to drill, such as acrylic and carbon fiber. Large holes in the base allow adhesive and resin to flow and spread along the joint for a good bond. You can mold them into plastics or composites. Made of 316 stainless steel, these nuts are excellent at resisting chemicals and salt water.

The base of these nuts acts like a flange, distributing pressure evenly across the mounting surface. Larger bases spread the pressure over more surface for a strong bond, while smaller bases fit better in tight spaces.

Install threads without a drill or glue—simply peel off the backing and stick these nuts onto your part. They’re a good choice for quick jobs where you only need a light-duty hold, like prototyping. Use them on almost any surface, but keep in mind that the adhesive clings best to plastic, powder-coated metal, composites, and glass. If you need a stronger, permanent hold, choose an adhesive-ready nut instead.

Choose a larger baseplate for a stronger hold and a smaller baseplate when you need the nut to fit into a tighter space.

Install threads without a drill or glue—simply peel off the backing and stick these nuts onto your part. They’re a good choice for quick jobs where you only need a light-duty hold, like prototyping. Use them on almost any surface, but keep in mind that the adhesive clings best to plastic, powder-coated metal, composites, and glass. If you need a stronger, permanent hold, choose an adhesive-ready nut instead.

Choose a larger baseplate for a stronger hold and a smaller baseplate when you need the nut to fit into a tighter space.

Fit these nuts into channels, corners, and other tight spaces to add strong threads without drilling a hole. They’re ideal for material that’s too thin or too hard and brittle to drill, such as acrylic and carbon fiber. For a strong hold, large holes in the base let adhesive and resin flow through and spread out. You can also mold these nuts into plastics or composites. Thanks to a zinc plating, they resist rusting in wet environments.

The base of these nuts acts like a flange, distributing pressure evenly across the mounting surface. The larger the base, the more that pressure is spread out; the smaller the base, the tighter the space these nuts can fit into.

Add strong threads to material that you can't drill or that's too thin to grip a threaded insert. These nuts are ideal for brittle plastics or tough composites, such as acrylic or carbon fiber. They have large holes in the base so that adhesive or resin can flow through, spread out, and create an extra-strong hold. They can also be molded into plastics or composites. A zinc plating helps keep these nuts from rusting in wet environments.

The base of these nuts acts like a flange, distributing pressure evenly across the mounting surface. The larger the base, the more that pressure is spread out; the smaller the base, the tighter the space these nuts can fit into.