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Install these stud-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Install these clevis-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Install these eye-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Use a new plug when installing a fitting on a different rope.
Place the wire rope and sleeve through a hole in the assembly block and tighten into a vise to hold. Then attach the plug driver on the end of a plug to make hammering in the plug easier.
Install these swivel-hook-end plug-lock fittings on the end of wire rope for a strong hold and finished appearance.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these ball-with-shank-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these stud-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these eye-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Also known as socket-end swage fittings, install these clevis-end fittings with a roller swage press for a strong, permanent hold.
Add a stud end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Add an eye-end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Add a clevis end to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Add a mounting plate to wire rope without having to fray the rope or use a compression tool.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these hook-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these eye-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Feed the wire rope into the opening at the bottom of these clevis-end fittings and through the body for a quick and simple installation.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty stud-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty mounting-plate-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Compress the thin shank wall with a hand tool to attach these light duty eye-end fittings. They are also known as hand swage fittings.
Also known as open wedge sockets, these end fittings require only a torque wrench to install.
These compression sleeves are designed to meet lifting specifications.
Keep multiple sleeves on hand in a variety of sizes.
Use these sleeves for non-lifting applications such as tethering, securing, and suspending.
These kits include two compression sleeves paired with two thimbles. The thimbles support the wire rope loops and prevent it from fraying.
These clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and the U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
These clamps have a forged fabrication and are reliable in critical applications. They are not for making slings. These must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Constructed with a saddle for both the long (live) end and the short (dead) end, these clamps apply equal pressure without crimping or crushing the wire rope, so orientation doesn't matter. Also known as fist grip wire rope clips.
Install these clamps without any specific orientation, slide the nut over the rope and tighten it onto the threaded halves with a torque wrench.
Kits include clamps and thimbles to support a wire rope loop and prevent it from fraying. Clamps must be oriented with the saddle on the long (live) end and U-bolt on the short (dead) end.
Make a removable loop without specialty tools for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing. Also known as tiller clamps.
Create a loop by feeding the wire rope through the clamp and tighten the set screw to secure it in place. Loosen the set screw to quickly adjust the loop. Also known as Gripple rope clamps. They are for use in noncritical applications, such as fencing.
A clamp and thimble in one convenient fitting simplifies installation while providing support and fray protection to the wire rope loop. Use a torque wrench to tighten the clamp.
Use in noncritical applications, such as fencing, where the strength of a forged clamp is not required. Install clamps so the saddle is on the long (live) end and the U-bolt is on the short (dead) end. They’re also known as wire rope clips.
Also known as heavy-pattern thimbles, these can be used to reinforce the loop of a sling.
Also known as standard-pattern thimbles, these provide better protection against fraying than light duty thimbles.
These thimbles are also known as thin pattern thimbles.
Smooth rounded edges and an endless design prevent snags.
The open-end design leaves more room for connections than other thimbles.
Secure a ball with shank to a flat surface.
Screw the pin into position by hand for quick installation and removal. They're for use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.
A bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin makes these shackles more secure than screw-pin shackles.
The strongest shackles we offer, these connectors have a pin with flush ends that prevents snagging and accidental disengagement.
The pins have flush ends to prevent snagging and accidental disengagement.
One end has a bolt fastened with a nut and cotter pin for a more secure connection than flush-pin connectors.
Meeting strict standards for lifting, yet flexible and lightweight, these shackles wrap around a variety of lifting points.
For use in low-vibration applications where the shackle remains stationary.
To prevent these shackles from snagging or accidentally coming undone, their pin doesn’t stick out from their body.
More secure than screw-pin shackles, these shackles close with a bolt that’s fastened with a nut and a cotter pin.
A lip on the shackle keeps the screw from falling out when loosened.
The flat side lets webbing and strapping lay flat, so they don’t slide and bunch. These shackles have a pin that screws in, so they’re quick to open and close by hand.
Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
The twisted shape of these shackles keeps rope and chain from twisting and knotting. And if their screw becomes loose, the lip on the shackles prevents it from falling out.
Since their pin doesn’t stick out from their body, these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a twisted shape to prevent rope and chain from twisting and knotting.
The bolt on these shackles is fastened with a nut and cotter pin, making them more secure than shackles with a screw pin. Also known as D-shackles, they have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
Cotter pins secure each end of these shackles for temporary installations.
The pin doesn’t stick out from their body, so these shackles won’t snag or accidentally come undone. They have a narrow opening that restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
Indentations in the shackle body hold the head of the pin in place once fastened.
A lip on the shackle keeps the pin from falling out when loosened.
Secure each end with the cotter pins for temporary installations.
Since they close with a screw pin, these shackles are quick to install and remove by hand, but should only be used in low-vibration environments where they’ll remain stationary. Their narrow opening restricts the movement of wire rope and chain.
Wrap these flexible shackles around a variety of anchor points.
Pull the collar to release the shackle from its locked position.
Disconnect by pulling the lever or attach rope to the eye on the lever for remote release.
Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access is limited. These shackes have a clevis end for making pivoting connections.
Attach a rope to the ring on the pin for remote release where access in limited. These shackles have an eye end for connecting to a hook.
Adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.
Use these to adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load and minimize twisting and knotting.
These have split rings that swing freely and pull from the center for easy alignment.
The snap and split ring swing freely and pull from the center for easy alignment.
Minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain and adjust the position of a fitting or an object under load.
For easy positioning before a load is applied, these rotate to minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied to minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these minimize twisting and knotting of rope and chain.
Prevent twisting in your rope or line with these swiveling carabiners. To open, pull the latch down, twist 90° and push in.
Hold rope more securely than nonlocking and slide-release carabiners. While these carabiners are not as secure as screw-locking carabiners, they are easier to open.
The most secure carabiner we offer, these carabiners won’t accidentally open when rope slides because you need to unscrew the latch to unlock them.
Slide the lock down to open the latch and release it to lock these carabiners.
Quickly connect and disconnect these carabiners—they don’t lock.
Also known as quick links, these links thread closed by hand or with a wrench.
Use for three-sided connections. Flat sides ensure webbing and strapping lay flat, so they won't slide and bunch.
Flat sides allow webbing and strapping to lay flat, so they won't slide and bunch.
Best for attaching different widths of webbing and strapping, the flat sides ensure they lay flat and won't bunch or slide.
The narrow end restricts the movement of rope and chain, and the wide end allows room to attach multiple connectors.
The twisted shape of these links prevents loads from rotating or knotting.
Often used with transport chain, these links are good for binding, tying down, and pulling loads.
Restrict rope and chain movement with the narrow end, attach multiple connectors to the wide end, and then hammer these links closed.
Also known as C-links, the notch in these links lets you slip additional links on or remove links quickly.
Strike the prongs with a ball peen hammer and they expand to hold the connecting link together.
Drive the end through the eye using a ball peen hammer and then weld or flatten the extended end to close. These links are also known as cold shuts.
Also known as lap links or repair links.
Hang, pull, and secure loads. These rings are good for general non-lifting applications.
Limit rope and chain movement with the narrow end of these links and attach multiple connectors to the wide end.
Smaller than lifting oblong links, these links provide room for snaps, carabiners, and other non-lifting connectors.
The flat side allows you to connect webbing and strapping, so they lay flat and resist bunching.
Use these links for general lifting applications.
Also known as master and sling links, a large inner diameter provides room to attach multiple connectors or legs on a sling.
Providing better load distribution and alignment than single oblong links, these reduce wear in three and four leg slings.
A pear-shaped link and hook for chain shortening allow you to create an adjustable-length chain sling.
The wide end of these links has more room for attachments than standard figure-eight links.
Once secured with the included locking pin, these links must be cut off to be removed.
Hammer the pin through the center to assemble these links. They’re also known as hammer locks and sling links.
The flat side lets webbing and strapping lay flat, so they don’t slide and bunch.
A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
Rotating for easy positioning before a load is applied, these have a latch to ensure that rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
A latch ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens. The hook opening accommodates large anchor points and allows chain to move freely through the closed hook.
Garolite insulation prevents electrical current from passing to hoists and other lifting equipment, causing damage. Because they're electrical insulating, these hooks are often used to hold a workpiece while welding.
The opening on these hooks fits large anchor points and allows chain to slide through when the hook is closed. They have a spring latch to ensure rope, chain, and fittings won't detach from the hook when the load slackens.
These rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.
Insert in eyes, links, rings, and other connectors with small openings. Also known as J-hooks.
For a more secure connection than standard hooks, these hooks have a latch that locks closed when a load is lifted. A ball-bearing swivel allows them to rotate under a load.
With a narrow opening and contoured sides, these securely hold a single link of chain to prevent overtightening when lifting a load.
Use these on thick molds, castings, and objects that don't have attachment points. Also known as foundry hooks.
For a more secure connection than standard hooks, the latch locks closed when a load is applied.
These have a latch that locks closed when a load is applied for a more secure connection than standard hooks. They rotate for easy positioning before a load is applied.
Create fast connections with items, such as rope, chain, and straps.
These snaps have an eye that rotates for easy positioning.
Lock the bolt with wire or a cable tie for a secure connection.
Squeeze the trigger to quickly release the latch.
A wide opening accepts large diameters of rope and pipe. Squeeze the trigger to release.
For a more secure connection than standard trigger-locking snaps, squeeze the trigger and slide the latch grip down to release.
The force of the load helps keep the arms closed. Press the trigger for quick connection and disconnection.
Easily slip chain, rope, and fittings on and off these open-mouth hooks. Attach your chain to the eye end.
Often used in binding and tie-down applications, these securely hold a single link of chain.
These swivel hooks have a latch that ensures rope, chain, and fittings won't separate from the hook when the load slackens.
Attach chain to the eye end of these hooks.
Bend these S-hooks by hand to hang large and small objects from almost any surface.
The spring-loaded latches on these hooks snap back into place, securing your load.
For extra security, these have a latch that snaps back into place to secure your load.
Join, organize, and suspend objects with these S-hooks.
These hooks have closed ends on both sides.
One side is closed and the other is open.
These hooks meet MS-87006.
Use these S-hooks for lifting applications.
Compress sleeves with less effort than standard compression tools.
Compress sleeves with more force than hydraulic hand tools.
Also known as seizing bands, these prevent fraying while cutting wire rope. Wrap the band around the wire rope and squeeze the flat end into the indented end.
Permanently mount this press on a bench top.
Attach these clamps by running a wire rope through the jaws to create an attachment point anywhere along the wire rope.
Use these turnbuckles in lifting applications with wire rope. Their closed body not only protects threads from damage and debris, but also keeps these turnbuckles slim enough to fit in tight spaces.
For use with wire rope in light duty applications, these turnbuckles have a closed body that protects threads from damage and debris.
The closed body protects threads from damage and debris and has a slim profile to fit in tight spaces.
Create a wire rope railing, perimeter, or barrier.
Weld these stubs to parts or use them to push objects apart instead of pulling them together.
Minimize material distortion while cutting steel and stainless steel wire rope.
Insulated handles protect against shock from accidental contact with live electrical circuits. These cutters are tested to 1,000 volts to meet IEC 60900 and ASTM F1505.
Keep your hands in a comfortable position so you can apply more force for cutting.
Cutters have double hinge that provides high cutting force with low gripping pressure.
A small grip enables one-handed cutting.
These manually operated cutters make a clean cut with just a few pumps of the handle.
With a quick hammer blow, these cutters make cuts without squeezing or flattening wire.
Use the lever to make one-handed cuts with minimal material distortion. Cutter mounts to a workbench for extra stability and ease of use for repeated cuts.
Often used in cable stringing and pulling applications, these connectors lock quickly and stay closed under tension.
Loop these rings onto tags.
Links split in half and snap back together. Use to connect two lengths of chain.
Hang these S-hooks from fencing and railing to route large bundles of material, such as cable, hose, and wire through your facility or worksite to avoid tripping hazards.