Our strongest-gripping butt splices secure wire through heavy vibration and sharp tugs.

Seal out dust and moisture to protect splices, terminals, and other electrical connectors. These covers are lined with a sticky gel that encapsulates the electrical connector. The seal created by the gel helps them meet IP08 standards—use them in junction boxes and outlets exposed to high humidity, rain, and splashing water. Unlike potting compounds, you don't need to mix or pour the gel before you install these covers.

If you have to expand or repair a circuit, you can open these covers and use the wires again. However, once you open the cover and remove the gel, you’ll need a new electrical connector and cover.

A step up in grip strength and strain relief over standard butt splices. After crimping your splice, apply a heat gun to shrink the plastic and grip wire securely under tension and vibration. The heat shrink also protects wire from the drips, dirt, and scuffs that lead to fraying, poor conductivity, and short circuits.

The choice for outdoor electrical panels, HVAC systems, and anywhere you're concerned about moisture. A gel filler repels moisture to keep your wires dry and conductive.

These connectors bite through insulation, so you save time and avoid damage from a wire stripper. For the most dependable connection, use a crimping tool to squeeze connectors onto your wire.

One splice does the job of two—connect a single wire with two others of the same size to streamline your run. After crimping the splice, apply a heat gun to shrink the plastic and grip wire securely under tension and vibration. The heat shrink also protects wire from the drips, dirt, and scuffs that lead to fraying, poor conductivity, and short circuits.

An upgrade in strength and strain relief over standard reducing splices. After crimping your splice, apply a heat gun or butane torch to shrink the plastic and grip wire securely under tension and vibration. The heat shrink also protects wire from the drips, dirt, and scuffs that lead to fraying, poor conductivity, and short circuits. Also known as step-down splices, reducing splices join a larger wire and a smaller wire end to end. Colored stripes differentiate the larger and smaller openings so you don't have to measure and mark them yourself.

Add a new branch to your circuit the quick way—no need for a new power source or a wire stripper. These taps bite through insulation to draw power from an installed main wire to new tap wires. Slide in the unstripped main and tap lines, then close the tap and squeeze it with a crimper for a secure connection.

Squeeze these splices onto thicker wire than crimp-on butt splices—up to 4/0 AWG. Check the color coding and wire gauge on the splice to match it with the right compression tool.

Twist onto the wire instead of crimping for fast and easy installation.

A step up in grip strength and strain relief over standard multi-direction splices. After crimping your splice, apply a heat gun to shrink the plastic and grip wire securely under tension and vibration. The heat shrink also protects wire from the drips, dirt, and scuffs that lead to fraying, poor conductivity, and short circuits.

These splices streamline wiring for industrial control panels, automotive electrical systems, and other complex setups. The wires come together at the center of the splice like spokes on a wheel, contacting the hub without touching each other.

These connectors are as quick to install as our clamp-on option, though they're not as easy to adjust. They extend or terminate electrical connections in branch circuits, such as light fixtures and electronic devices. Push wire into place without the need for an installation tool. To break the connection later, you'll have to pull wire back out. The connectors also have test sockets to safely test voltage after installation.

DIN Rail Mounting Adapters—Clip connectors onto DIN 3 rail to keep them organized and easily accessible.

Covers—Seal out moisture to protect your connection. Covers are lined with a sticky gel, so you don't need to mix or pour a potting compound yourself. They’re rated IP08 to withstand splashes, rain, and humidity. To repair or expand your circuit, open the cover and remove the wires so you can reuse them. However, you'll need to replace the splice and cover after you open the cover and remove the gel.

A go-to for underground feeder lines, these connectors stand up to pressure and wear when buried in the polypropylene cover. Strip your wires and slide them side by side into the opening. To connect, twist the easy-grip wing for a tight grip on the wire without straining your arm.

A gel filler seals out water to keep your wires completely dry and conductive. No need to strip your wire—insert insulated wires into the splice, then squeeze the button with a crimper or pliers until it clicks. The splice bites through the insulation, so you don't take extra time or risk nicks and cuts from a wire stripper. Snap splices together to create the exact setup you need.

Our strongest-gripping reducing butt splices hold wire securely through heavy vibration and sharp tugs. Also known as step-down splices, reducing splices join a larger wire and a smaller wire end to end. Colored stripes differentiate the larger and smaller openings so you don't have to measure and mark them yourself.

Unlike other twist-on butt splices, sealed end caps block out moisture and keep your wire dry and conductive. Insert wires end to end and lock them in place with the twist of a cap. These splices resist vibration and pulling to keep a secure connection between wires. Use them to speed up field installations without the use of crimping tools.

Insert wires end to end and lock them in place with the twist of a cap. These splices resist vibration and pulling to keep a secure connection between wires. They're convenient for field installations when you don't have crimping tools handy.

Unlike other crimp-on butt splices, a grease filler repels moisture to prevent corrosion and keep your wire dry and conductive. Attach your wire with a crimping tool to avoid a damaged splice and loose connection.

Connect two components with different wire sizes, such as an air compressor and its control panel. Also known as step-down splices, these splices join a larger wire and a smaller wire end to end. The larger and smaller openings are color coded so you don't have to measure and mark them yourself. You can snap splices together to create the exact setup you need.

A gel filler seals out water to keep your wires completely dry and conductive. No need to strip your wire—insert insulated wires into the splice, then squeeze the button with a crimper or pair of pliers until it clicks. The splice bites through the insulation, so you don't take extra time or risk nicks and cuts from a wire stripper.

Cut and restore your tapped connection without rewiring. Instead of connecting to a bare tap line, these taps lock onto wires with quick-disconnect terminals on the end. First, insert your main line into the tap (no need to strip the wire first). Next, squeeze the tap with a crimper so it bites through the insulation for a secure connection. Crimp a quick-disconnect terminal (sold separately) onto your tap wire, then pop it in and out of the tap as often as you need.

Combine wiring from multiple components into a single, secure circuit. These splices streamline circuits for industrial control panels, automotive electrical systems, and other complex setups. The wires come together at the center of the splice like spokes on a wheel, contacting the hub without touching each other. Attach wires with a crimping tool to avoid a damaged splice and loose connection.

Unlike other twist-on connectors, a silicone filler repels moisture to keep your wire dry and conductive. These connectors twist on and off your wire to save time over crimp-on connectors. You can bury them in soil to power everything from irrigation systems to landscape lights. The connectors have a lower maximum voltage when buried.

With a tighter grip than other insulation-piercing wire options, these taps secure wire around motors and other high-vibration equipment. Twist the cap to lock the tap onto the main wire. The tap will bite through the insulation to establish a connection. Next, strip your tap wire and thread it into the tap to draw power and create a new circuit.