Flip a clamp onto your wire instead of crimping to speed up installations and reuse your splice later. Choose these splices for setups that change often, such as prototypes and testing. They even have test sockets to safely test voltage after installation.

These tap/connectors join larger wire sizes, such as power and control cable in distribution panels. Insert your main wire into a port, then insert tap wires into the other ports and tighten the set screws. The wires lock in place for a consistent and durable connection.

These splices connect thicker wires than crimp-on butt splices—up to 1000 MCM. Tighten the set screw onto the wire instead of crushing the body, like you do with compression butt splices. That makes these splices reusable and easier to install.

A step up in grip strength and conductivity from standard wire connectors. Twist your wires together and crimp them so they hold securely when tugged or jostled. For rain and splashes, choose heat-shrink crimp-on wire connectors instead. For wires on or around vibrating equipment, consider tight-hold heat-shrink connectors.

An economical alternative to our quick-connect clamp-on option, these splices are as quick to install but harder to adjust. Push wire into each end without the need for an installation tool. The splices have a test socket to safely test the voltage after installation.

These connectors are as quick to install as our clamp-on option, though they're not as easy to adjust. They extend or terminate electrical connections in branch circuits, such as light fixtures and electronic devices. Push wire into place without the need for an installation tool. To break the connection later, you'll have to pull wire back out. The connectors also have test sockets to safely test voltage after installation.

DIN Rail Mounting Adapters—Clip connectors onto DIN 3 rail to keep them organized and easily accessible.

Covers—Seal out moisture to protect your connection. Covers are lined with a sticky gel, so you don't need to mix or pour a potting compound yourself. They’re rated IP08 to withstand splashes, rain, and humidity. To repair or expand your circuit, open the cover and remove the wires so you can reuse them. However, you'll need to replace the splice and cover after you open the cover and remove the gel.

Protect utility, irrigation, and other underground connections from groundwater, rocky soil, and mechanical stress. After tightening the set screws, slide the heavy-wall polyolefin tube onto the splice. Then, apply a heat gun to shrink the tube and completely seal out moisture and dirt.

Twist onto the wire instead of crimping for fast and easy installation.

Plugged and sealed at every opening, these tap/connectors protect wire from groundwater and rocky soil. The trim-to-size port plugs create a tight seal where the wire enters. The other plugs have double O-rings to seal off gaps around the set screws.

A go-to for underground feeder lines, these connectors stand up to pressure and wear when buried in the polypropylene cover. Strip your wires and slide them side by side into the opening. To connect, twist the easy-grip wing for a tight grip on the wire without straining your arm.

A gel filler seals out water to keep your wires completely dry and conductive. No need to strip your wire—insert insulated wires into the splice, then squeeze the button with a crimper or pliers until it clicks. The splice bites through the insulation, so you don't take extra time or risk nicks and cuts from a wire stripper. Snap splices together to create the exact setup you need.

These connectors hold wire more securely than crimp-on connectors, so they're a better choice for high-vibration setups. They're also quicker to install and reusable because you don't crush them with a crimping tool. Tighten the set screw into the metal barrel inside the connector for a secure grip on the wire.

Avoid exposure to live wires when replacing ballasts. To install, push the wires between the ballast and the power source into the connector. Each set includes a male plug and a female socket. All comply with NEC requirements for connecting fluorescent lights.