These splices connect thicker wires than crimp-on butt splices—up to 1000 MCM. Tighten the set screw onto the wire instead of crushing the body, like you do with compression butt splices. That makes these splices reusable and easier to install.

Slide large wires in and tighten the hex nut for a strong, secure hold between the wire and screw. Loosen the hex to make a quick adjustment or to reuse the splice elsewhere. These splices are easy to use, but the connection isn't fully protected by the body of the splice.

Plugged and sealed at every opening, these tap/connectors protect wire from groundwater and rocky soil. The trim-to-size port plugs create a tight seal where the wire enters. The other plugs have double O-rings to seal off gaps around the set screws.

Squeeze these splices onto thicker wire than crimp-on butt splices—up to 4/0 AWG. Check the color coding and wire gauge on the splice to match it with the right compression tool.

Lay the main wire into your tap on the first try instead of poking and threading. The tap wire connects parallel to the tap or at 90°, so the tap will slide into your setup at different angles. Strip both wires and slide off the screw plate before installation. Tighten the set screws onto both wires for a secure connection.

Covers—These covers fully insulate the tap so moisture can't reach the wire. They snap shut so you don't have to tape them down.

Connect large wires of different sizes, as thick as 4/0 AWG. Colored stripes differentiate the larger and smaller openings so you don't have to measure and mark them yourself. Check the color coding, wire gauge, and compression die reference number on the splice to match it with the right compression tool.

Connect and secure wire that's frequently pulled, jostled, or vibrated. Insert your exposed wire ends in the splice, then pass a heat gun or butane torch over the body. When heated, the enclosed solder melts around the wire for a stronger, more rigid connection than unsoldered wire.