Plastic pins are a nonconductive and nonmagnetic alternative to metal dowel pins. Use them as pivots, hinges, shafts, jigs, and fixtures to locate or hold parts.

Oversized to fit worn and enlarged holes, these pins work well as repair and replacement parts.

To remove these pins, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull them out.

A spiral groove cut into these pins relieves trapped air but stays in 360° contact with the hole for a secure fit that's easy to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

Center-groove pins are often used in place of clevis pins or to create T-handles. The grooved center locks pins in position, while the smooth ends act as a pivot. Also known as type E pins.

Grooves run the full length of these pins for a firm hold that won't spin. Use them in place of standard dowel, spring, and taper pins to fasten parts. Also known as type A pins.

These pins are commonly used as anchors for tension springs. The grooved half locks pins in position, and spring ends fit in to the notch. Also known as type G pins.

For use with Browning shear hubs, these pins are designed to fail at specific loads to protect heavy duty machinery from torque overload.

Use these pins to fasten components made of soft materials such as plastic or aluminum. Opposing barbs bite into each piece, pulling them together for a tight, secure fit.

The full length of these pins is knurled for a tight grip that won't spin.

Threads on these pins stick out for easy removal from blind holes. Tighten the hex nut to draw the pin out.

Weld these pins directly to a surface —no mounting hole required.

Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.

An O-ring in the flange creates a tight seal.

Designed with a flange to keep the plunger from being pushed through a hole when the ball is depressed.

Install by hand or with a hex key in low-clearance applications.

Retract the nose by pulling the knob.

Use the lanyard as a tether to secure the spring plunger to machinery and prevent accidental drops.

A quarter turn of the handle locks these plungers in the retracted position. The smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts.

An L-handle takes up less space than a T-handle.

A smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts.

Install with a driver.

Slotted on both ends for installation with a screwdriver.

Fasten from the nose end with a wrench for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.

Weld these catches in place for a strong permanent hold.

The shoulder provides a consistent height reference point and keeps the pin from being pressed through the fixture.

A slightly undersized shank makes these pins easy to install and replace. Also known as slip-fit and lock-screw locating pins, they are held in place by a separate lock screw.

Encase these pins while molding plastic or composite parts. Once set, the knurls resist movement, letting you align the workpiece with precision on a plate or table.

Use the handle on these retractors to extend and retract a locating pin, protecting the pin from damage in applications where fixtures move through a process, such as along a conveyor belt.

The head on these pins slides side-to-side in one direction. Use one of these pins and one standard round-head pin to prevent jamming when loading and unloading workpieces with inconsistent hole spacing.

Sealed at the top to prevent debris from getting inside and making them seize up, these guide pins are a good choice for machining fixtures.

Use these tools for easier guide pin installation.

As the face of these plungers is pushed in, the internal spring applies outward pressure to hold a workpiece in position against stops and rails.

The swiveling tip supports uneven and angled surfaces.

Support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side. These buttons press into a drilled hole for permanent installation.