Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.

The ring allows you to attach these spring plungers to a lanyard.

Use the lanyard as a tether to secure the spring plunger to machinery and prevent accidental drops.

Thread onto machinery or attach a knob or handle to the threaded spindle.

A T-handle makes these spring plungers easy to grip.

A smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts.

An L-handle takes up less space than a T-handle.

Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the knob and rotating it 90°.

Use an arbor press or similar pressure tool to install these spring plungers into a panel.

Insert the nose into a panel; then thread on the nut and tighten using an installation wrench.

Install with a hex key for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.

A flange keeps the plunger from being pushed through a hole when the ball is depressed.

Fasten from the nose end with a wrench for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.

Designed with a flange to keep the plunger from being pushed through a hole when the ball is depressed.

An O-ring in the flange creates a tight seal.

Weld these catches in place for a strong permanent hold.

Set the tang in a slot below the work surface to prevent thin material from sliding underneath the face.

Sealed at the top to prevent debris from getting inside and making them seize up, these guide pins are a good choice for machining fixtures.

Threading makes these guide pins easier to remove and replace than press fit, so they're useful for high-wear applications.

To align two parts with more precision than standard spring plungers, these index plungers have a mating bushing that improves alignment and repeatability.