Install these pins in a plate or table and mate with holes in a workpiece for precise alignment.

Screw the shank into a threaded hole for quick installation and removal.

Encase these pins while molding plastic or composite parts. Once set, the knurls resist movement, letting you align the workpiece with precision on a plate or table.

When locating a workpiece using through-hole alignment pins, use one of these bushings and one standard bushing to prevent the pins from binding in your fixture.

Use these buttons to support and position workpieces and fixtures from the bottom or side. Their hex shape lets you screw them into a threaded hole with a wrench or socket.

Support rounded or irregularly shaped workpieces from the bottom or side with minimal contact.

Use these tools for easier guide pin installation.

Set the tang in a slot below the work surface to prevent thin material from sliding underneath the face.

Slip these pins in and out during maintenance or prototyping—they’re undersized to make alignment easier.

Oversized to fit worn and enlarged holes, these pins work well as repair and replacement parts.

The flat side of these pins relieves trapped air, making them easier to insert in and remove from blind holes. To remove, thread a screw or tool into the tapped hole, then pull the pin out.

These pins make good hinges or pivots. The grooved half locks pins in position, while the smooth half can act as a pivot. Also known as type H pins.

Grooves hold these pins in place, and a round head gives them a finished appearance.

Grooves run the full length of these pins for a firm hold that won't spin. Use them in place of standard dowel, spring, and taper pins to fasten parts. Also known as type A pins.

Use these as pivot or hinge pins. The knurled half locks pins in position, while the smooth half acts as a pivot.

For use with Browning shear hubs, these pins are designed to fail at specific loads to protect heavy duty machinery from torque overload.

Use these pins to fasten components made of soft materials such as plastic or aluminum. Opposing barbs bite into each piece, pulling them together for a tight, secure fit.

A 60° beveled head fits into a countersunk hole.

A thick shoulder makes these pins more rigid than standard ejector pins.

To remove these pins, hit the small end with a punch to drive the pin out.

The smooth ring handle on these pins won't catch on parts. A spring-loaded, nonlocking retaining ball pops out when the pin is pushed through a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

A bright-orange plastic-coated handle makes these pins easy to see and easy to grip. Pins have a spring-loaded ball that pops out when the pin is pushed into a hole, and retracts when the pin is pulled out.

The smooth ring handle on these pins won't catch on parts. The shoulder keeps a portion of the pin outside the hole and makes them easy to grab.

These pins adjust to take up play in a system or hold parts in holes of varying thicknesses. Spin the handle up or down, then tighten the locknut to change the length by up to ½”. Pins lock in place until you push the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls.

Use the key to unlock these pins, then press the button to release the spring-loaded retaining balls. Two-step locking prevents accidental removal.

Weld these pins directly to a surface —no mounting hole required.

Slotted on both ends for installation with a screwdriver.

Install with a hex key for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.

Fasten from the nose end with a wrench for more torque than slotted long-nose spring plungers.

Retract the nose by pulling the knob.

Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the ring and rotating it 90°.

Use the lanyard as a tether to secure the spring plunger to machinery and prevent accidental drops.

Lock the nose into the retracted position by pulling the handle and rotating it 90°.

Install by hand or with a hex key in low-clearance applications.

A T-handle makes these spring plungers easy to grip.

A quarter turn of the handle locks these plungers in the retracted position. The smooth ball handle is easy to grip and won't catch on other parts.

Add a knob or handle to the threaded shank.

The flangeless design allows these spring plungers to mount flush with a surface.

Install with a hex key for more torque than slotted ball-nose spring plungers.

When one side wears out, use the other one. Also known as barrel drift pins.

Often called bull pins, these pins are designed to resist mushrooming caused by repeated pounding.

Each step on these aligner pins matches common bolt holes on pipe flanges, so they're more precise than conical aligner pins and don’t require nuts. Press the pair of pins into mated flanges to make sure the flanges are aligned.